Harbor freight pads
- Thread starter MA5177
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sharpreflection
New member
- Feb 21, 2013
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I have learned that the orange pad on a rotary with menzerna fg400 works amazing. I have had a little trouble with them on the d/a even with a 5 inch backing plate getting hot and coming apart but u have also had me guitars microfiber discs and lake country hydro tech cyan pads deteriorate some with minimal use. Basically everyone says these pads are terrible on a d/a try them on your rotary and see how they work out. For me it was a pretty good experience.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Where's that Harbor Freight discussion forum?
:laughing:
:laughing:
Candy Apple
New member
- Sep 13, 2015
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I used a blue 6" Harbor Freight pad for the first time recently on my Griot's Garage DA polisher, but only for a few minutes. I noticed afterwards that the pad's Velcro didn't go all the way to the edge, and the Velcro hooks on the backing plate started to tear into the unprotected edge of the pad. I would guess this the main thing that's causing people to experience short lifespans with these pads.
I Googled the problem and found a couple of YouTube videos on the topic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1BMzEHq3eo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jpgFtrPv80
I have no idea why Harbor Freight doesn't fix this problem. I went ahead and ordered a 5" backing plate, which I don't have yet, to see if that solves the problem. I'd really like to use the Harbor Freight pads because I feel pretty silly buying name-brand, Velcro-covered pieces of foam for $10 each that probably cost $0.50 to manufacture.
I Googled the problem and found a couple of YouTube videos on the topic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1BMzEHq3eo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jpgFtrPv80
I have no idea why Harbor Freight doesn't fix this problem. I went ahead and ordered a 5" backing plate, which I don't have yet, to see if that solves the problem. I'd really like to use the Harbor Freight pads because I feel pretty silly buying name-brand, Velcro-covered pieces of foam for $10 each that probably cost $0.50 to manufacture.
Bunky
Well-known member
- Jun 20, 2007
- 6,427
- 150
I would guess because HF is a reseller of oem products. They focus on selling things as low as possible.
ski2
New member
- Dec 2, 2011
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Why would you take the chance with cheap pads if you're going to take the time to polish your car??
You can get very high quality 5.5" Buff & Shine pads from Autoality for $6.00 each in a 5 pack and I'm sure Nick will meet or beat that price. And, if you take care of them with proper cleaning and don't try to do an entire car with 1 or 2 pads, they will last you a good long while.
I detail everyday for a living so sometimes I look for a bargain to increase my bottom line.The foam pads orange cutting is junk ,The problem is tha backing doesn't have a high threshold for extreme high revved da performance . The wool pads are ok,and the blue finishing foam will just fall a part And forget about washing them.They are once and done pads.
cardaddy
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- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
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Funny story about those horrific HF pads.
Went on a job with a local 'high end' guy back in 2013. Car was a big black Lexus. His client, his pads. He handed me a HF pad and said to go at it on this car with Menz SI 1500. I literally barely got through a single section and the pad was 'snowing' all over the clients garage! Another pad... same thing! The garage by that time looked like someone had been removing popcorn ceiling all over the place. :laughing:
Finally he dug through his bag and handed me a crusty CCS orange pad. It was better, but HOLY COW. (Far too dirty IMO to be doing a final buff with.) Decided I better get new, clean pads from my bag and do it right.:xyxthumbs:
Haven't picked up a HF pad before then, since then... and never will.
Went on a job with a local 'high end' guy back in 2013. Car was a big black Lexus. His client, his pads. He handed me a HF pad and said to go at it on this car with Menz SI 1500. I literally barely got through a single section and the pad was 'snowing' all over the clients garage! Another pad... same thing! The garage by that time looked like someone had been removing popcorn ceiling all over the place. :laughing:
Finally he dug through his bag and handed me a crusty CCS orange pad. It was better, but HOLY COW. (Far too dirty IMO to be doing a final buff with.) Decided I better get new, clean pads from my bag and do it right.:xyxthumbs:
Haven't picked up a HF pad before then, since then... and never will.
Candy Apple
New member
- Sep 13, 2015
- 6
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I've always washed my foam pads immediately after use in a sink of soapy water, but I've found them to be too fragile to last through one or two washes. Compressing them to squeeze the water out seems to do the most damage. Cleaning them is also messy, time consuming, and I end up with a bunch of wet towels to wash after drying the pads.
Even after squeezing them out with a towel on both sides, they hold enough residual water that I have to let them air dry for several days before storing them in plastic zipper bags. During that time, they are exposed dust and other contaminants that could cause scratching during their next use.
I'd prefer to use cheap pads and throw them away after one use. To me, cleaning up is the worst part of polishing and waxing, so not having the chore of cleaning foam pads makes things a lot more tolerable. It also gives me the peace of mind that I'm always starting with a brand new pad that's free of any abrasive contaminants that might scratch.
ski2
New member
- Dec 2, 2011
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So if you're concerned with not imparting marring you must be using good polishing practices, ie at least 4 pads per step. With a 20% off coupon we're looking at $4.80 per pad--that's $19.20 you're willing to throw away after each polishing step and all while using inferior pads because you don't want to spend a few minutes cleaning your pads???????
Guess I can't argue with that logic!!
I never wash my pads I take a razor blade turn on machine and etch the dirty soiled compound from the top.Every day I come home I have to make calls wash towels set up van ,and fill water tank there no way I, gonna wash a couple of pads before u know it its 8:00
Candy Apple
New member
- Sep 13, 2015
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I typically only use one pad for each product I use per job. So if I use Griot's Machine Polishes 1, 2, 3, and 4 (I don't always need all four) plus wax, that's a total of five pads per job in the worst case. That's only about $25 worth of Harbor Freight pads. It just doesn't seem worth $25 to try to save them when I consider the amount of time it takes and the damage washing does to the foam.
I can't imagine using four pads per product. That would probably be more pads than a Harbor Freight store stocks.
I do have to say, though, that Griot's polishes are a good choice for those who reuse pads because they are easier to clean up than other brands I've used.
VISITOR
Active member
- May 10, 2007
- 9,859
- 3
I wouldn't waste my money on these HF pads and just buy some pads that have a good reputation that are known to last and perform since you're going to be using them for a good while (no one likes to waste money right?). GG, buff and shine, lake country, and megs all have some solid offerings...
Desertnate
Well-known member
- Aug 5, 2013
- 6,239
- 293
:iagree:
I actually saved a great deal of money by buying some LC pads. The LC pads I use now have been through at least four seasonal detailing sessions of my three family cars.
The HF polishing and compounding pads often won't survive a single session on one car, let alone multiple cars. I like not having to buy new pads after every job.
ski2
New member
- Dec 2, 2011
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While Griots makes some great products (I own a GG6 and G15 among other things) their Machine Polish 1,2,3,4 have never been known to perform that well. You can accomplish the same results with HD Cut and HD Polish or even just HD Adapt in some cases (not to mention many other more effective brands). I can't imagine doing 3 or 4 steps.
In any case, if you use one pad per step you are working inefficiently--pads get saturated with spent product and removed clear and lose their effectiveness even with frequent cleaning on the fly.
Here's an article by Mike Phillips regarding the number of pad to use per step and the reasoning behind it--- http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html
Cleaning pads doesn't shorten their life, but using one pad for an entire car per step will certainly shorten their life.
If you're concerned about the time it takes to clean pads do a search for "Ghetto Pad Washer." You can build one for about $15 and it makes cleaning pads a snap. After cleaning and sqeezing out as much water as possible I put them between a folded thick terry towel and stand on each pad. Then air dry overnight and they are good to go. Edit: Found the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkLXeWyxP0E&feature=youtu.be
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
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ONE PAD per *process*?!?!?!!!!
As in heavy compounding, the ENTIRE VEHICLE... you use ONE pad?
Then medium polishing... again... ONE pad?
Light polishing... ONE pad?
HOLY MOLY!
(Not even going to touch on going through a 4 step (plus) process.)
OTOH... I like the Griots bottles!
(Not so much the 1~4 compounds however.)If --- WASHING --- your pads does more damage, tears them up, makes them unsuitable for use the next time around..... YOU HAVE THE WRONG, (VERY CHEAP) PADS.
A pad brush, a bit of pad cleaner, and the same 'on machine' process will do the same thing. Well... that's on pads that STARTED CLEAN. I'd suspect on pads that are NEVER washed that nothing short trimming of the top ¼" of the foam on a lathe, then sticking 80 grit to them whilst spinning would help. :dunno:
In a situation where you use dozens of pads a day, nothing is a better time saver than a bucket of pad cleaner. Clean them on the fly when they've reached terminal dirtiness and toss them into the pad cleaner bucket. Let them soak all day, then at night do a rinse in hot water, a towel roll up, then a quick spin on the machine. Sit them on a grate (I have old plastic Coke crates for when I have a ton of them) and they'll dry overnight, (even in the garage).
OR.... (considering using dozens of pads each and every day) a solid investment in a pad cleaner would pay for itself, in both time and labor... probably before mid-week.
:applause::applause::iagree::applause::iagree::applause::iagree::applause::iagree::applause::applause:
Actually.... using one pad, during the compounding stage, for just a FEW minutes too long will literally destroy it, if not taking out the backing plate in the process!
I had a guy a couple months ago doing some training, left him alone for just a minute while I went inside for a potty break and got a glass of tea. We were working on a F350, in white. Came back out, noticed that he was getting ZERO correction. Stopped him to have him see what I was seeing. Then noticed that the second pad I'd given him was still laying on the hood! He'd done the front fender, most of the passengers door, and was happily thinking he was going to work the back door (crew cab) and then down the side. The fender was corrected, the front edge of the door was corrected, and that was it.
The pad was completely collapsed in the middle, and the Velcro on the backing plate was gooey and almost smoking! Thank goodness the foam in the plate was still good, and the Velcro didn't come apart, and the glue held. Stuck it in the fridge and cooled it.
BTW... it was a LC flag orange pad.
Had it been a cheap pad... pffftttt... he'd had DESTROYED his truck!
*Yes it was his truck!*
