Harbor Freight Rotary Buffer

A couple of things I think I should chime in on.

You almost never want to tilt the pad on a rotary buffer. You won't evenly polish the paint and you will cause holograms.


The only time a porter cable vibrates like what you are describing is when you are using too large of a backing plate and pad or too heavy.

The porter cable performs best with a 5.5 inch pad and slightly smaller backing plate.

Some guys use larger pads but you will get more vibration and the machine wont polish as efficiently.

I guess you have to start somewhere, but the stuff you are saying is scaring me man!

Good luck to you.
 
statusdetailing said:
A couple of things I think I should chime in on.

You almost never want to tilt the pad on a rotary buffer. You won't evenly polish the paint and you will cause holograms.


The only time a porter cable vibrates like what you are describing is when you are using too large of a backing plate and pad or too heavy.

The porter cable performs best with a 5.5 inch pad and slightly smaller backing plate.

Some guys use larger pads but you will get more vibration and the machine wont polish as efficiently.

I guess you have to start somewhere, but the stuff you are saying is scaring me man!

Good luck to you.
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I am not really tilting the pad where there is a significant angle. It tilt it about 1 or 2 degrees relative to the car surface. That way, it helps me maneuver the buffer. Otherwise, the pad is always flat to the paint surface. I am using the 6 in DA backing plate that I purchased from AutoGeek since I bought the 6.5" LC CCS pads. Maybe that was my mistake. Maybe I should of purchased the 5" or the 4" pads.
 
Like I said, there are guys using 6 in backing plates and 6.5 inch pads, but I think, from what you are describing, you'll be happier with a smaller backing plate and pad.



Anybody else want to chime in on the pad tilting thing?
 
statusdetailing said:
Like I said, there are guys using 6 in backing plates and 6.5 inch pads, but I think, from what you are describing, you'll be happier with a smaller backing plate and pad.



Anybody else want to chime in on the pad tilting thing?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice! I'll keep that in mind for my next purchase at AG.
 
I would suggest wearing gloves when using your Porter Cable. It minimizes the vibrations. That's what I do when I use it cause it leaves my hands "tingly".
 
Actually, the HF buffer isn't a bad unit to play around with, as long as you live within its limitations. I bought one a while ago to load with small pads for headlights. Having a cabinet full of USA-made power tools, I didn't expect much, but was pleasantly surprised. I had to adjust the gearcase backlash and lube everything to quiet it down. Keep your pad size small, as full-size rotary pads will bog the machine down with the least pressure. 4, 5 or 6 inch pads are easier to work with, though you still need to keep a finger or thumb on the speed wheel to wind it up when necessary. I don't use mine for serious correction, as I have another rotary, but if this was my only buffer, I'd stay with SMAT products such as M105. SMAT compounds tend to be less finicky about speed variations IMO, and speed variations are inherent with a sub-$50 machine. As I grow older, I find myself reaching for my HF POS more and more for AIO jobs and lighter polishes, primarily due to the lighter weight and subsequent controlability. I'll never be without a rotary, since that's what I originally learned with 40 years ago, so I guess it's time to save my pennies for a Flex.
Bottom-line, be aware of the limitations, do your research and observe proper precautions, but have fun using your cheapie HF while you decide if you really want to commit to a serious buffer. Any experience you gather will always be helpful in the future regardless of the unit you upgrade to.

Bill
 
Thought I'd chime in.

I use the HF rotary and haven't had any problems with it. Worked great when I needed more power than the porter cable. It's a night and day difference.

It does slow down under load quite a bit, but I'm not a pro, just a hobbyist..

I did switch out the backing plate right away to utilize my 5.5 pads. This helped to control the machine a bunch. After a lot of practice you'll get better with it. A rotary does take skill to master.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks guys for the great info! I plan to keep practicing with the HF buffer until I feel I am ready to make the jump to a much better buffer.
 
I have one from harbor freight i bought some cheap generic 3" pads off ebay i use m105, 205, 7, 26 no problems out of it. Wish i could afford a flex but Dave Ramsey says it can come later :dblthumb2:
 
The primary reason why you choose brand name from HF is the electronic control that pushes a constant torque when pressure is applied. The cost difference is tremedous, >$120. HF rotary = $35 , brand name rotary = $155.

When you cut or polish on soft material like car paint, it doesn't matter much bc it's very little pressure. However, if you cut or polish on heavy material like wood or man made stones, that's where the constant torque controller will be handy.

I own a Makita 9227c that I used for wood and other stuff to sand but now making it a use on polishing cars. I've owned other rotary tools w/ constant torque controller and w/o and for this purpose, I strongly believe HF would do well.
 
pontiac.gxp said:
I have one from harbor freight i bought some cheap generic 3" pads off ebay i use m105, 205, 7, 26 no problems out of it. Wish i could afford a flex but Dave Ramsey says it can come later :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...


AWESOME another DR fan!!! I too have the HF rotary and have used it for about 6 years with good results. Been on the DR plan for just over 3 now and working on BS4,5,&6
 
I'm just a weekend hacker so take my advice for what you want. I dont feel the HF rotory bog down much at all without undue pressure. And just as the OP, i went with it to learn on. For $30 + change I don't see how you can go wrong. One thing I noticed was after i did the 'grease mod' it made a world of difference in noise and a slight change in the vibrations.
 
KB in MD said:
I'm just a weekend hacker so take my advice for what you want. I dont feel the HF rotory bog down much at all without undue pressure. And just as the OP, i went with it to learn on. For $30 + change I don't see how you can go wrong. One thing I noticed was after i did the 'grease mod' it made a world of difference in noise and a slight change in the vibrations.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the HF rotary or the HF DA?
I didn't care for the HF rotary at all. IMO, it was a waste of money. I ended up buying the Makita 9227C which is a night-and-day difference. I think the HF DA is an excellent tool and I have put a lot of miles on mine....but the rotary unit is either in the trash or I gave it away (I don't remember).
 
Rockeey said:
Are you talking about the HF rotary or the HF DA?
I didn't care for the HF rotary at all. IMO, it was a waste of money. I ended up buying the Makita 9227C which is a night-and-day difference. I think the HF DA is an excellent tool and I have put a lot of miles on mine....but the rotary unit is either in the trash or I gave it away (I don't remember).
Click to expand...


i was talking about the HF rotory bogging. What didn't you like about it? Lack of power?
 
I had used an old buddies harbor freight rotary be cause he said I wasted money buying my makita. I think it just felt cheap all around. The trigger was flimsy, the speed control would change as I moved the buffer, and it would surge really horribly.

He also tried my Makita, 2 weeks later he owned one....

They aren't horrible for the very rare occasion, but I couldn't work with one consistently.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
I have the HF rotary as you have.
It's heavy but has plenty of power.
This has to be the most powerful rotary they ever sold.
Very smooth too I must add.

Put a good BP on it and enjoy

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
 
I'm still trying to make up my mind on which rotary I want to buy.
I had a Mikita that was stolen from the back of my truck so I bought the HF Electronic rotary.
Pros - Good power, well balanced, holds selected RPM's pretty good even with load.
Cons - Cheap unit, heavy, no throttle control, just an on/off switch.

I put a really good BP with good pads and works just fine, I miss my Mikita:(
Now I'm leaning towards the DeWalt, might as well wait until the holidays are over now.
Who knows what I'll buy:)





ShineTimeDetail said:
Welcome! To the point lol you bought a cheap buffer...electrical things from HF are not the best of quality....less vibration but much more muscle to control the buffer. they have there pros and cons.
Click to expand...
 
"Grease Mod"

Like how man?
Talk to me:dblthumb2:



KB in MD said:
I'm just a weekend hacker so take my advice for what you want. I dont feel the HF rotory bog down much at all without undue pressure. And just as the OP, i went with it to learn on. For $30 + change I don't see how you can go wrong. One thing I noticed was after i did the 'grease mod' it made a world of difference in noise and a slight change in the vibrations.
Click to expand...
 
HateSwirls said:
"Grease Mod"

Like how man?
Talk to me:dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

just as most have done to the HF DA, i removed the OEM grease and added some Hi Temp(500*) Extreme Pressure grease from Sta-Lube made by CRC. $5 a tube at HF.
I also replaced the OEM phillips head screws with hex cap screws (M4x .70 x 14) Installed via 7mm socket or wrench.
IMO, less chance of stripping the head out next time I R&R the grease

If Charlie Sheen was a detailer ...Spinning! :xyxthumbs:
 
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