Has anyone stopped using a rotary?

conman1395

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With all the new machines out in the DA share of the market (Forced rotation and large throw), has anyone who is skilled using a rotary stopped using it? Or is the rotary still the fastest way of correcting even if you're using a DA to finish?

The reason I ask is because the debate between the Flex and Rupes may never end, but from my understanding they're simply trying to close the gap between the rotary and machines such as the PC 7424.
 
With all the new machines out in the DA share of the market (Forced rotation and large throw), has anyone who is skilled using a rotary stopped using it? Or is the rotary still the fastest way of correcting even if you're using a DA to finish?

The reason I ask is because the debate between the Flex and Rupes may never end, but from my understanding they're simply trying to close the gap between the rotary and machines such as the PC 7424.

I haven't stopped using it, never will, but it definitely sits on the bench a LOT more. 95+% of the time I'm using my long throw DA over the rotary.
 
I use it.

I teach how to use it in my ACR 3-day classes.

I teach a class on how and why to use it at Mobil Tech each year.

It all comes down to using the right tool for the job. Sometimes the rotary buffer is the right tool for the job.

In my experience you can remove sanding marks with any paint polishing tool and I have at least 2-3 threads on this forum showing how to remove sanding marks by HAND.

While any orbital can remove sanding marks in the flat easy to buff area it can be both time consuming and more difficult to remove sanding marks around edges, corners, raised body lines, tight areas and curved panels. So big picture is a rotary is still faster than any other tool or than working by hand when it comes to remove 100 percent of the sanding marks.

The rotary is also the best tool for extreme oxidation removal on gel-coat boats if a person doesn't want to hand or machine sand the oxidation off the gel-coat boat. I teach how to hand sand and how to machine sand extreme oxidation in my boat classes and then how to use the rotary buffer to remove your sanding marks. I also cover this topic in my new book on boat detailing.



How to wet sand a car - Time Lapse Video

Back in March of this year, (2013), I did a complete wet sand, cut, polish and even machine waxed a 1964 Chevrolet Malibu and while doing this project, Yancy set the GoPro camera up to take a picture every minute.


How to wet sand a car
[video=youtube_share;5zDuFzvKSAI"]How to wet sand a car[/video]




It took me 12 hours from start to finish.

I could have removed the sanding marks dozens of other ways using other tools but there's no way I could have achieved 100 percent sanding mark removal in this amount of time without using a rotary buffer.


I recommend getting a Flex PE14 - smooth, quiet, compact size.



p.s.

I list all the steps I used in the actual thread if anyone is interested...

How to wet sand a car - Time Lapse Video


:xyxthumbs:
 
Being that I became less involved in paint correction
as I once was...Yes: I had stopped using them for
quite awhile. I had turned my detailing focus to
using solely DA Polishers---using them mostly for
Paint-cleaning (including light polishing) and as a
Wax-spreader.

Now, though, with peripheral neuropathy
taking its toll: Using only a DA for detailing
tasks has become less, and less desirable.

As such:
I recently purchased the smoother
operating Flex PE8.

In terms of health issues: I'll see how that goes
before I purchase a Flex PE14-sized Rotary.


Bob
 
Being that I became less involved in paint correction
as I once was...Yes: I had stopped using them for
quite awhile. I had turned my detailing focus to
using solely DA Polishers---using them mostly for
Paint-cleaning (including light polishing) and as a
Wax-spreader.

Now, though, with peripheral neuropathy
taking its toll: Using only a DA for detailing
tasks has become less, and less desirable.

As such:
I recently purchased the smoother
operating Flex PE8.

In terms of health issues: I'll see how that goes
before I purchase a Flex PE14-sized Rotary.


Bob

I'm really sorry to hear that Bob. I suffer from extreme myofascial pain and some of that has caused entrapments of nerves (namely my Brachial Plexus) and it is debilitating. The point you brought up is one of the main reason's I am interested in a rotary. When I am done with physical therapy - which has gone on for almost 2 years now - I want to continue to detail but I want to do so with the least amount of stress on my body.
 
I still use a rotary buffer and expect there will always be something here or there that calls for the rotary polisher. I have been "bitten" by the rotary on quite a few occasions over the years, usually near the end of a very long day when I'm getting very tired. I have put a lot of effort into the MF DA systems that I have in my shop and have gotten very good with them for the work that I'm doing. My rotary sits on the shelf a lot because it's simply a liability more often than an asset to me.
 
My Boat Anchor Milwaukee Variable Speed Rotary sits like a poor orphan, packed away in a box in my Spare bedroom, knowing that should I sell it, I'll be kicking myself badly at some future point.

I might consider modding it in the future, and mimicking Mike Phillip's use in many instances, fitted with small tiny Plates, and Pads for small finesse work in tight areas, headlight restos in quick order, etc. But sad thing again, this machine isn't like the little mini Flex Rotary Polisher, its weight and bulk does "work" you.

If I was a pro, or even a part time "neighborhood detailer", it would be up and running. Just no real need for it at this point in time for my needs.
 
Not yet. Still learning my PE-8 and just bought the PE-14. I think I have a Flex addiction.

Walter
 
I did.

When I got out of the detailing thing in the mid 2000's, I gave away my cheap Wen polisher. I eventually got an ADT rotary, but got rid of that in 2012, because I kept using the PC so much.

With the slower available speed and lighter weight of the Flex pe 14-2, I'm once again intrigued, and plan on ordering one, once I can afford it.
 
I keep reading how rotaries are great for production work and wet sanding. I've been thinking of buying a PE-14 or a Makita but I'm a little intimidated by rotaries. I see what some detailers do with the buffer trails and I don't want to screw up my or someone else's car.
 
Which tool to use always comes down to using the best tool for the job and personal preference.


Plus today there are so many backing plate options and buffing pad options. It's not like the old day when the only pads available were

  1. Wool cutting pad
  2. Wool finishing pad
  3. Wooless Wonder

:)
 
Here's a blast from the past to check out...

For this project we started with the Flex PE14 and then finished with the Flex 3401. Many of the guys you'll see in the pictures had never used a rotary buffer before.

1959 Impala - Mothers Extreme Makeover! - Pictures & Comments!



Cutting with rotary to remove horrendous swirls, scratches and water spots.

1959_Iimpala_Red_036.jpg





Removing the holograms using the Flex 3401 and maximizing gloss and clarity.

1959_Iimpala_Red_058.jpg




Machine waxing to seal the paint.

1959_Iimpala_Red_070.jpg



Finished!

1959_Iimpala_Red_080.jpg




A text book example of a the best tool for the job.


:)
 
I use my rotary more than my DA's, the Flex PE-14 is the best polisher I have ever used, it makes my Rupes BigFoot and Flex 3401 look like kiddies toys when it comes to speed of correction and smoothness. I went from DA to Rotary and its the best thing to have happened to me detailing related.
 
I haven't used a rotary in a while but when it comes to wet sanding the rotary is the best option it gets rid of the marks faster and cuts the paint quicker as well

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
I always using my rotary for finishing step except for some tricky paints that dodnt like the idea of rotary . i just cant get that bright finish with da.
 
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