Have a question after polishing/swirl removal. Removing oils?

NewShockerGuy

NewShockerGuy

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I really enjoy detailing. I started out years ago with a PC as I'm sure a lot of people have. Now I have a Flex (still got the PC). It's a world of difference using the Flex...

However I have more of a general question as I'm second guessing how I've been doing things.

Normally my process goes as the following if it's a complete detail (mind you I'm not listing manufactures or brands as we all like something different) This is the quick non detailed version below.

1. Wash car with Dawn
2. Clay bar car
3. Wash car with Dawn again
4. Dry car with electric blower
5. Begin paint correction depending on swirls or light scratches...etc. Obviously different pads/compounds
6. Polish
7. Seal (x2-3 light coats)
8. Wax (x2-3 light coats)

Now normally from my steps after polishing I go and use a sealant and let that cure... however I read somewhere that one needs to remove the polishing oils from the car before using a sealant which then makes me wonder what are people using because I have NOT done this ever. I am now wondering if because I did not remove the polishing oils it never really has been sealed properly.

Is this silly to think of? After polishing there is zero grit/film on the car that I can feel with my hand, the paint feels like glass.
For the most part I think I do a decent job as it normally takes 20+hrs to do one of our vehicles depending on how long it's been or dirtiness.

Figured I'd ask, I'd rather do it properly than to continue to half ass it if that's what is happening.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 
Hi Nigel,

Since this is your first post...


Welcome to AutogeekOnlline! :welcome:



NewShockerGuy said:
I really enjoy detailing. I started out years ago with a PC as I'm sure a lot of people have. Now I have a Flex (still got the PC). It's a world of difference using the Flex...

However I have more of a general question as I'm second guessing how I've been doing things.

Normally my process goes as the following if it's a complete detail (mind you I'm not listing manufactures or brands as we all like something different) This is the quick non detailed version below.

1. Wash car with Dawn
2. Clay bar car
3. Wash car with Dawn again
4. Dry car with electric blower
5. Begin paint correction depending on swirls or light scratches...etc. Obviously different pads/compounds
6. Polish
7. Seal (x2-3 light coats)
8. Wax (x2-3 light coats)
Click to expand...

If it were me I would skip the second washing step as this consumes both time and energy but if it works for you that's what it's all about.

Also, one well applied coat of a sealant is enough but again, if you're happy that's all that matters.


NewShockerGuy said:
Now normally from my steps after polishing I go and use a sealant and let that cure... however I read somewhere that one needs to remove the polishing oils from the car before using a sealant which then makes me wonder what are people using because I have NOT done this ever. I am now wondering if because I did not remove the polishing oils it never really has been sealed properly.
Click to expand...

Lots of confusion and misinformation on this topic.


When Sal Zaino introduced Z1 and Z2 synthetic paint sealants he recommended that all polishing oils be removed from the paint surface so his product could properly bond. The like a snowball going down a hill everyone jumped on the bandwagon and before you know it - the word on the street became you MUST chemically strip car paint before applying anything.

First - Always follow the manufacturers directions as technically they know their product best. If they say to chemically strip the paint then do it.

Second - Most "normal" waxes and sealants can be applied to the paint and make a proper bond without chemically stripping the paint. (I don't chemically strip paint for normal waxes and sealants).

Third - There's a NEW category of paint protection products called paint coatings. For paint coatings, in most cases you DO have to chemically strip the paint before applying the coating however there are exceptions to this rule also for companies like Gyeon and CarPro.



What do you normally use for sealants and waxes?



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Third - There's a NEW category of paint protection products called paint coatings. For paint coatings, in most cases you DO have to chemically strip the paint before applying the coating however there are exceptions to this rule also for companies like Gyeon and CarPro.
Click to expand...

Hi mike, just curious, but what product you usually use for cleaning / chemically strips the paint?

Cheers!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Mike for the information. I only do the second wash to get the clar bar residue and lubricant off the car before paint correction begins. Plus gives me a second chance to make sure the car is 100% clean. It is a tad overkill but gives me an excuse to use my foam cannon and pressure washer...lol

I do the multiple coats of sealant because I've read on here that many people like to do 2-3 or even sometimes more coats of the Klasse. I can't say I see a difference after one honestly but it's easy to apply and 12hrs in between I guess isn't bad. IE: Start Friday. I can get 3 coats on by Sunday. But again if that's not needed that definitely saves time!

I have the following products to use depending on how bad a car is.

(Swirl/Compound/Polish)
XMT Swirl Removal with #1-3.
XMT 360
Meguiars M105
Meguiars M205
PoorBoys Professional Polish

If the car is bad I tend to use Meguiars M105/205 with orange and white pad. If the car isn't bad I tend to only use Poorboys professional polish with white pad. Applied with the Flex.

(Glaze)
XMT Glaze

(Sealant)
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #20 Polymer Sealant

(Waxes)
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 (tends to be my outdoor protection)
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Car Wax (tends to go on my motorcycle since it never sees weather/rain)
Poorboy's World Natty's Paste Wax (white, red, and blue) (Used here and there, they don't last long in terms of durability)
Meguiars Nxt Gen wax (Normally used for wheels)

I put on the sealants and waxes on by hand because it's calming. Then remove them with the PC.

I think there might be a couple more but that's what I remember off the top of my head.

All pads are Lake County CCW pads with the dimples.


Hope that helps :-)

Thanks for the info so far!

-Nigel
 
I'm with Mike on the one wash step, and going straight to wax or sealant after polishing.

Epically if using M105/M205, and following with a Meguiar's product.
 
Cool so I have been doing it the right way all this time. I have just add a couple more extra steps that aren't 100% necessary, right?

:-)

-Nigel
 
NewShockerGuy said:
1. Wash car with Dawn
2. Clay bar car
3. Wash car with Dawn again
4. Dry car with electric blower
5. Begin paint correction depending on swirls or light scratches...etc. Obviously different pads/compounds
6. Polish
7. Seal (x2-3 light coats)
8. Wax (x2-3 light coats)
Click to expand...


In addition to the other points made via replies here, I'll toss in a few.

Ditch the Dawn Soap. It's myth that it will strip or remove more than a good dedicated PH Balanced product dedicated for washing vehicles. I like Meg's Gold Class. It is my go-to for washing. Try it and I'm sure you'll see why.

In terms of drying before a polish, I use a blower too but only after I wipe down the car. If it works for you so be it, but you're not likely if at all going to introduce any deep scratches by wiping it and it is going under a polisher anyway so..... It is good to use one though as it helps blast water out of the cracks and joints, etc. but just noting my point as it's a time saver and time is money if you're doing it for pay.

I'd also look at saving time by not doing 2-3 coats. There are book-long threads on layering LSP's but in the end, I've yet to see anyone prove a benefit in terms of longevity. A second coat is usually just if you're topping say a glaze with a sealant or using a second coat to insure uniform coverage. Personally, take your time and do a fully thorough first coat and be done with it. The only item I do a second coat with is a coating and even there I'm doing it myself to insure more uniform coverage.
 
Synergy is wax that needs to have oils removed before applying, I've done it a few times without removing oils and it's not good to put it mildly
 
pdqgp said:
In addition to the other points made via replies here, I'll toss in a few.

Ditch the Dawn Soap. It's myth that it will strip or remove more than a good dedicated PH Balanced product dedicated for washing vehicles. I like Meg's Gold Class. It is my go-to for washing. Try it and I'm sure you'll see why.

In terms of drying before a polish, I use a blower too but only after I wipe down the car. If it works for you so be it, but you're not likely if at all going to introduce any deep scratches by wiping it and it is going under a polisher anyway so..... It is good to use one though as it helps blast water out of the cracks and joints, etc. but just noting my point as it's a time saver and time is money if you're doing it for pay.

I'd also look at saving time by not doing 2-3 coats. There are book-long threads on layering LSP's but in the end, I've yet to see anyone prove a benefit in terms of longevity. A second coat is usually just if you're topping say a glaze with a sealant or using a second coat to insure uniform coverage. Personally, take your time and do a fully thorough first coat and be done with it. The only item I do a second coat with is a coating and even there I'm doing it myself to insure more uniform coverage.
Click to expand...


I use dawn only because it does tend to cut through the crap that is on the car before a detail. I don' t normally use it to strip anything off the car as I've found what you stated it doesn't do that great. But, it's good soap that doesn't destroy my hands and is cheap and can be had anywhere. I like Gold class, use it a lot when normally hand wash the cars after they have been detailed. If I use the foam cannon with a power washer, then I will use CG maxi suds as it's a huge amount of foam/froth when sprayed on the car. It tends to be a little harsh though so after I run out I'm going to be looking for a gentler foaming soap to use. I most definitely use a leaf blower to dry the cars. My neighbors look at me like I'm nuts when they see me washing the cars as it's like a production...lol

Welp, I'm not going to be doing the multiple coats anymore going forward. That will at least save a large amount of time.

Appreciate all the comments from everyone and if the polish calls to be removed prior to sealant or wax then I'm going to use the recommended alcohol route mentioned above.

-Nigel
 
NewShockerGuy said:
I use dawn only because it does tend to cut through the crap that is on the car before a detail. I don' t normally use it to strip anything off the car as I've found what you stated it doesn't do that great. But, it's good soap that doesn't destroy my hands and is cheap and can be had anywhere. I like Gold class, use it a lot when normally hand wash the cars after they have been detailed. If I use the foam cannon with a power washer, then I will use CG maxi suds as it's a huge amount of foam/froth when sprayed on the car. It tends to be a little harsh though so after I run out I'm going to be looking for a gentler foaming soap to use. I most definitely use a leaf blower to dry the cars. My neighbors look at me like I'm nuts when they see me washing the cars as it's like a production...lol

Welp, I'm not going to be doing the multiple coats anymore going forward. That will at least save a large amount of time.

Appreciate all the comments from everyone and if the polish calls to be removed prior to sealant or wax then I'm going to use the recommended alcohol route mentioned above.

-Nigel
Click to expand...

Nigel,
We'd also recommend ditching the Dawn. It's great for dishes, but it's not great for car paint. Try our Premium Body Wash. Our shop employees had cracking, dry hands when using generic car wash soap, so we formulated PBW to be safe and effective on your skin and your car's paint. Dr. Beasley's Premium Body Wash
 
Good thread. I wondered about this also after my first polish then seal. M205 then Klasse sealant. Good to know my polish wipe down with just a microfiber was sufficient before sealant.

I did do a second coat of Klasse sealant but honestly i think it was worth it more because it goes on so clear it's hard to know if i missed a spot. A second coat ensured complete coverage. Can't say i noticed a huge difference in 1 coat vs 2 though in shine. Peace of mind was worth it though.
 
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