Having trouble with Nanoskin "Medium Grade" Sponge

artofdetailing

artofdetailing

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Yes, I followed the directions and broke the sponge in first on the windshield. Yes, I bought Glide and diluted it per instructions. I even tried incorporating foam from the foam gun. After doing one small test section on my own car, I noticed this weird marking almost resembling the same pattern on the face of the sponge. I finished the car with clay instead since I have way more experience with that.

What went wrong?
 
More Details please....

What car, what color?

Were you using any pressure? Could you hear the sponge picking up contaminates? What size section did you use it on? Would you say this vehicle was very contaminated?
 
Sounds like surface marring. The good news is that it'll buff out really easy. ;)
 
cardaddy said:
Sounds like surface marring. The good news is that it'll buff out really easy. ;)
Click to expand...

I agree... I have experienced light marring anytime I use the Nanokin Mitt on darker paint. As you said, it is very easy to remove because it is so light... it typically looks worse than it really is. For that reason, I usually only use the Nanoskin when polishing is to follow.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...wagon-nanoskin-autoscrub-mitt-fine-grade.html
nanoskinmarring_zps16dbea18.jpg
 
zmcgovern45 said:
More Details please....

What car, what color?

Were you using any pressure? Could you hear the sponge picking up contaminates? What size section did you use it on? Would you say this vehicle was very contaminated?
Click to expand...


Black 2010 Ford Escape. Its my personal car and has been very well maintained. I was just doing some product testing. I applied very minimal pressure. The sponge picked up some stuff and I was excited about that.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
I agree... I have experienced light marring anytime I use the Nanokin Mitt on darker paint. As you said, it is very easy to remove because it is so light... it typically looks worse than it really is. For that reason, I usually only use the Nanoskin when polishing is to follow.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...wagon-nanoskin-autoscrub-mitt-fine-grade.html
nanoskinmarring_zps16dbea18.jpg
Click to expand...


Thats the exact patten it left! Thanks zach...I already polished it afterwards but I was looking forward to using them on clients vehicles. I will hold off on the medium grade until I find a technique that works better and doesn't leave "marring"

I haven't broken out the fine grade yet...hoping i don't run into the same problem.
 

Yes that is surface marring. I got the same thing with the Ultima clay block on my Acura. I simply polished it away.
 
artofdetailing said:
Thats the exact patten it left! Thanks zach...I already polished it afterwards but I was looking forward to using them on clients vehicles. I will hold off on the medium grade until I find a technique that works better and doesn't leave "marring"

I haven't broken out the fine grade yet...hoping i don't run into the same problem.
Click to expand...

That photo was after using the Fine Grade mitt on soft, jet black, Toyota paint.

The car was scheduled for a 2 step correction, but just for the heck of it I did some testing to see how easy it was to remove the marring left by the Nanoskin. I was able to remove it with SF4500 without a problem... so it was very light.

Again, this is typically why it is recommended to polish after using these products as the risk of marring is higher than with traditional clay. This is of no concern, however, if you are planning on polishing anyways because it is easily removed and it greatly reduces the time spent claying.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
That photo was after using the Fine Grade mitt on soft, jet black, Toyota paint.

The car was scheduled for a 2 step correction, but just for the heck of it I did some testing to see how easy it was to remove the marring left by the Nanoskin. I was able to remove it with SF4500 without a problem... so it was very light.

Again, this is typically why it is recommended to polish after using these products as the risk of marring is higher than with traditional clay. This is of no concern, however, if you are planning on polishing anyways because it is easily removed and it greatly reduces the time spent claying.
Click to expand...

Here is my situation - just purchased new 2014 Mazda 6. As soon as I got it, I clayed the car, then used Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant. Love the results. Then just discovered the Nanoskin product here on the forums. Next time I clay the car, I would like to try the Nanoskin sponge fine grade, or mitt, or autoscrub, as I also purchased the PC 7424XP (used it to apply the BWDS). But since new paint, I don't want to screw it up and have the process force me to polish. Are any of the three products "safer" than the other? If it matters, my car is silver. I want to try it, hoping if it works and saves time, I will keep up on the claying part more often. I love to save time. Bear with me, as I am a newb. Thanks!Im the MAN
 
I have purchased the nanoskin mitts and sponges(Fine & medium grades). I also use nanoskin Shocker for the lube and haven't had any problems with the mitts so far. They are terrific and fast. Havent tried the sponges yet but I will look for marring now. Get the mitts and you will not be disappointed in their performance. When I used clay bars I would get marring sometimes but it was always a cinch to remove with the following step by the machine.
 
Mtnsummit said:
Here is my situation - just purchased new 2014 Mazda 6. As soon as I got it, I clayed the car, then used Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant. Love the results. Then just discovered the Nanoskin product here on the forums. Next time I clay the car, I would like to try the Nanoskin sponge fine grade, or mitt, or autoscrub, as I also purchased the PC 7424XP (used it to apply the BWDS). But since new paint, I don't want to screw it up and have the process force me to polish. Are any of the three products "safer" than the other? If it matters, my car is silver. I want to try it, hoping if it works and saves time, I will keep up on the claying part more often. I love to save time. Bear with me, as I am a newb. Thanks!Im the MAN
Click to expand...
Unless you are exposed to heavy fallout, you won't have to clay for 6-12 months.
 
Rsurfer said:
Unless you are exposed to heavy fallout, you won't have to clay for 6-12 months.
Click to expand...

I really don't live in a area with industrial fallout. Just a lot of highway driving. Like you mentioned I was not planning claying again until another 6 months or so. But figured I would keep my eyes out for any Black Friday sales, and would pick up one of the Nanoskin products for the next time I do clay. I figure all three probably have the same rubber surface, just was not sure of the groups preference and/or if one could cause potential marring versus another. I really don't want to have to polish after using it, figuring that waists the time saved using the product, and seeing how the car is new.
 
The fine grade is what you should be using if your car is well maintained. Don't use medium unless you're going to polish afterward and the car is full of contaminants.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
I agree... I have experienced light marring anytime I use the Nanokin Mitt on darker paint. As you said, it is very easy to remove because it is so light... it typically looks worse than it really is. For that reason, I usually only use the Nanoskin when polishing is to follow.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...wagon-nanoskin-autoscrub-mitt-fine-grade.html
nanoskinmarring_zps16dbea18.jpg
Click to expand...

This is the same stuff I was getting and yeah it did buff out easy. I noticed that the less pressure you use the less of this you get. I also only use it if Polishing is to come next.
 
I get the same marks with the fine grade towel for dark colored cars. But like zmcgovern45 said, this should only be used if a polish is to follow. If no polish is following the towel laying, traditional clay bar should be used.
 
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