Haze or? I need your opinion

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B18c_tuner

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Hi fellow AutoGeeks! I just completed my first full detail with my Flex 3401 and would like to know if I'm seeing DA haze or if it's just the lighting or even the paint color? Here are the pics (black A-pillars):



Products used:

WolfGang uber 3.0 compound (tangerine hydro tech pad)
Meg's Ultimate Polish (tangerine hydro tech pad)
Meg's Ultimate Wax- paste (crimson hydro tech pad)
 
That looks like the definition of haze.
You have to change something, most likely your polishing pad, but your technique might have something to do with it.
Personally I wouldn't finish with the Flex and go with an 8mm DA.
But I know you can finish with a Flex but a small DA might be easyer.
 
I would change polishing pads a grey LC should clean that up.
 
Just to be clear, those appear to be B-pillars, and that paint can be very soft so as noted above, try a softer pad (perhaps the UP with the Crimson, if what you posted above is all you have).
 
rbss said:
I would change polishing pads a grey LC should clean that up.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the tip. By grey you mean black right? If so I was thinking maybe the black hybrid pads?
Setec Astronomy said:
Just to be clear, those appear to be B-pillars, and that paint can be very soft so as noted above, try a softer pad (perhaps the UP with the Crimson, if what you posted above is all you have).
Click to expand...
Thank you! I tried the crimson and UP but it's still not quite perfect. I will try the black hybrid pads.
 
Dear OP,

Can I give you some advice from one enthusiast to another? Forget special lights, bulbs, pictures, etc... to spot defects. The best way to go about it is to evaluate the car in the full sun before you start, make mental notes, and then evaluate your test spot/work in the full sun (especially on black).

If your picky (and using a forced rotational machine), you really want to be able to see the defects from the start - and be able to evaluate the surface after you finish. If not, you may end up chasing your tail and waisting your time and products. There are some defects on black (like holograms) that you may only be able to fully evaluate in the sun.

It's hard to tell via a picture if the surface is micro-marred, has defects, or is corrected. That is why it's so hyper critical to carefully evaluate the surface before you start working on it - and after your test spot, and after your final work - so YOU know you are getting the results you desire.

Looking at paint under gas station fluorescent lights at night also is a great way to spot defects if they are difficult to see.
 
swanicyouth said:
Dear OP,

Can I give you some advice from one enthusiast to another? Forget special lights, bulbs, pictures, etc... to spot defects. The best way to go about it is to evaluate the car in the full sun before you start, make mental notes, and then evaluate your test spot/work in the full sun (especially on black).

If your picky (and using a forced rotational machine), you really want to be able to see the defects from the start - and be able to evaluate the surface after you finish. If not, you may end up chasing your tail and waisting your time and products. There are some defects on black (like holograms) that you may only be able to fully evaluate in the sun.

It's hard to tell via a picture if the surface is micro-marred, has defects, or is corrected. That is why it's so hyper critical to carefully evaluate the surface before you start working on it - and after your test spot, and after your final work - so YOU know you are getting the results you desire.

Looking at paint under gas station fluorescent lights at night also is a great way to spot defects if they are difficult to see.
Click to expand...
I should have taken pics before the correction but these b-pillars were "swirled-out" as Mike would have had it. The funny thing is under the lights (day light bulbs) they give of this haze (supposedly). And under the sun the haze isn't there (looks jet black). My guess is it may be a different color black.. I will call the dealership today to find this out.
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Do you see the same haze in the paint or only the dividers between windows?


A lot if not most of these dividers are plastic. Also...


What are you working on?


:)
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for chiming in Mike! As for the haze I'm only seeing it on these pillars. And not on the car itself. I will try to get better pics around 1pm today to showcase what the car looks like under direct sunlight. The pillars are indeed plastic. Which the rest of the trim around the windows seem to be made of plastic as well. But I don't see the haze on this other plastic trim.. Which leads me to believe it must be a different hue of black on these pillars (even though they aren't perfect under my light, given the crimson w/UP improved the look quite a bit).
 
B18c_tuner said:
Thank you so much for chiming in Mike! As for the haze I'm only seeing it on these pillars. And not on the car itself. I will try to get better pics around 1pm today to showcase what the car looks like under direct sunlight.

The pillars are indeed plastic.

Which the rest of the trim around the windows seem to be made of plastic as well. But I don't see the haze on this other plastic trim..
Click to expand...

Try the Megs UP with a softer pad like the Black Hybrid.

Sometimes I've found that really soft paints and/or materials, (plastic) prefer the final polish to be a lot less aggressive. For example if you have a PC or variant (free spinning) instead of Flex 3401 (forced rotation/oscillation).

Another option would be to try a DAT polish over a SMAT polish. Quality DAT polishes seem to be a lot more forgiving on soft paints and soft materials over SMAT products....

For example get some Wolfgang Finishing Glaze and try that instead of Meguiar's Ultimate Polish.


:)
 
Thank you for those tips Mike! I'll definitely give the black hybrid pads a try. Also I was thinking of trying Menzerna Sf4500. Would that be considered a DAT polish?
 
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