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mark709

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Hi - I'm new here and new to detailing. I've been reading the site for a couple of days and my head is spinning with all the options and variables. I have a 2001 S2000 and a 2010 element (both silver). Both are kept in the garage and under cover at work - neither are show cars. The S2k has some light swirls and water spots and the E just has crud on the surface.

I need to buy a DA and products to cover both cars.

I think the s2k needs a light polish, but there are dozens to choose from. I don't mind a couple of steps, but I don't have time for several passes. Since the s2k hasn't been waxed for 5 years should I start with a compound? I'm thinking of an AIO for the E since it is fairly new (xmt360??).

Is it generally a good practice to keep the products under the same brand or is best of breed ok?

On the protection side - I'm leaning towards WG deep gloss paint sealant for both. I want something that will last 3-6mos.

Here's what I'm thinking about ordering.
wash- DG901
clay - WG clay kit
polish - no clue
protect - WG deep gloss paint sealant

Any help is appreciated!!
Mark
 
Hey Mark, :welcome: To Autogeek Online!

This is something I've posed several times and it covers many areas at a high level but give you an idea of what's available and some of the prices.

This is "the" place to learn some of the finest ways to detail your car. There is a wealth of knowledge here for the beginner to the most advanced. A simple question is all that's needed to initiate helpful responses from members here and also Autogeek Professional Staff.

Everyone starts off as a beginner but with some reading, questions, and trial, error, and practice you'll be amazed how much you'll be able to do. After reading and understanding some of the basics, the more hands on your are the quicker you'll build your knowledge and gain experience.

This link contains articles written by Mike Phillips and has allot of great reading within.

Articles by Mike Phillips

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Make detailing enjoyable and practice. Take your time and do not become overwhelmed. Just because there are a thousand product doesn't mean you have to use them all.

Pick one product from each category from the steps above. You already have some great waxes so you're that far ahead of the game..

Autogeek has a kit section that contains everything you need to get started. For starting off I recommend a dual action polisher. These come on a variety of flavors and Autogeek carries most of them so take your time and educate yourself.

The kit pages below will give you an idea of what's available but if you do decide to purchase a Porter Cable 7424 style polisher opt for the 5 1/2" flat pads right off. The 6 1'2" are just too large and this has been confirmed many time over.

Just a small sampling of what's available through Autogeek...

Kit Page

Car Care Kits, Car Care Cleaning Kits, Complete Detailing Kits

Decent kit

Pinnacle Twins & Meguiar's G110v2 Dual Action Polisher Kit FREE BONUS

Much better kit

Menzerna Porter Cable XP Maximum Shine Kit FREE BONUS

Flex Kit

If I were in the market for a kit this would be the one I'd choose.
Pinnacle Flex XC3401 Polishing & Swirl Remover kit, Pinnacle polishes, swirl removers, finishing polish, flex buffer

Don't overlook a one step product

One Step Product

Klasse

Klasse ALL-IN-ONE Auto Polish, Klasse All In One, klasse aio, Acrylic polish

Menzerna Sealing Wax

Menzerna Sealing Wax APO 60, Menzerna APO 60, Menzerna wax

Meguiar's D151

Meguiars Paint Reconditioning Cream D151

Pinnacle XMT

Pinnacle XMT Clean & Shine Bundle

Forum Favorite

Klasse All-In-One, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, Pinnacle Souveran, Pinnacle Crystal Mist Spray Wax come together to create a forum favorite kit.

Sealants

Menzerna Power Lock Paint Sealant

Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant, Menzerna auto sealant, car sealant, paint sealant protectant

Other quality sealants

  • Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
  • Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
  • DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant
Wax

Collinite 845

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845, liquid wax, heat-resistant wax, car wax

Pinnacle Signature Series ll

Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax will give you a deep, wet finish will exceed your expectations. car wax, carnauba paste wax, pinnacle
 
:welcome: Mark!
I have an AP1 also but mine is Berlina Black. I'm not familiar with the Silverstone but my paint is very soft. Mine was very heavily swirled so I used 105/205 and it came out nice. If yours is just light I would not go as aggressive. I haven't used them but there is great talk about Menzerna polish's and also the Wolfgang twins.
WGDGPS is a very good sealant, it's easy to apply and remove, has a great shine and lasts quite awhile, but there has been a lot of talk about Blackfire Wet Diamond lately, I'm just waiting for AG to put it on the shelf so I can try it.
I'm happy to see another S2k on here, there are only a few of us.:xyxthumbs:
 
BobbyG has given you some great advice. I would suggest you go with either Wolfgang or Menzerna polishes. There's really not much diff since WG is made by Menz, although I do note that the WG Total Swirl Remover is not terribly aggressive and since you mentioned not wanting to do several passess, Menz Intensive Polish (91E) followed by Super Nano Finish (106FA) is probably your best choice.

If you don't mind spending an extra 200 bucks, the Flex forced DA polisher would be much faster than a Porter Cable XP. I chose the PC XP because I simply don't polish that many cars and saving a couple hours ain't worth 200 to me.

I will note that many here do not like using the CCS pads with the type of abrasive in Menz, so you will probably be better off going with flat pads. I'd get a six pack of 2 orange, 2 white, 1 gray and 1 blue. I've now polished like 6 cars and the pads are still fine. BTW, you don't need to switch to a clean pad while polishing if you keep the pad clean using Mike P's "on-the-fly" cleaning technique. Do a search, you'll find the article.

I do recommend the Menzerna Powerlock sealant over the Wolfgang. There have been several reviews here noting that the PL lasts a good bit longer.

Car washes are all about the same to me. As long as you aren't using some off the shelf bargain brand, they all do a darn good job. The one exception I will note is the Rinsless washes (DP and Optimum). Not only do they do a great job and save one heck of a lot of time and water, they can also be diluted for use as clay lube and quick detailer, saving you a bunch of money.
 
+1 on the rinseless washes, I can wash and dry my car in 15-20 mins.
 
Welcome to the Geek!

I have done a few Silver S2k's and I have found that an easy single step compound and polish for those is the Megs Ultimate Compound it is cheap and finishes down very nice I tend to use it a lot on "quickie" jobs Here is a link to an M3 that I just did using the UC and a GG6 DA that was an amazing turn around.

For wax/sealant I would second the Col 845 as a great durability and great looking LSP!

Have fun and enjoy your cars!
 
CrownKote said:
Welcome to the Geek!

I have done a few Silver S2k's and I have found that an easy single step compound and polish for those is the Megs Ultimate Compound it is cheap and finishes down very nice I tend to use it a lot on "quickie" jobs Here is a link to an M3 that I just did using the UC and a GG6 DA that was an amazing turn around.

For wax/sealant I would second the Col 845 as a great durability and great looking LSP!

Have fun and enjoy your cars!
Click to expand...

I'll second what CK says about Meg's UC finishing down very nice. I've used it on a couple GM cars and a Hyundai, just not a Honda. But if CK says it works great on a Honda, you can pretty much take that to the bank.
 
HeavyMetal said:
I'll second what CK says about Meg's UC finishing down very nice. I've used it on a couple GM cars and a Hyundai, just not a Honda. But if CK says it works great on a Honda, you can pretty much take that to the bank.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the kind words!

Bobby's post was more in depth and much more informative when it comes down to the tech side of things.

I follow Mike's statements very closely especially when it comes to these two:

KISS and Taylor to the customer...

My customers get what they want and they get it simply...

If they just want "Shinny" that is what they get (obviously with a bit more love) If they want "perfect" we go from there as to what that means to them...

I found that when the OP said this: "I don't mind a couple of steps, but I don't have time for several passes" that UC and 845 would be my go to for a customer and I in most cases would get great reaction of the finished product.


OP:
Here's what I'd order in your case.
wash- ONR
clay - DP Clay kit
polish - Megs Ultimate Compound
protect - Collinite #845
da - GG6
pads - LC 5.5in or 6in 2 orange 2 white 2 black or red
Some nice plush MF towels!
 
CrownKote said:
Here's what I'd order in your case.
wash- ONR
clay - DP Clay kit
polish - Megs Ultimate Compound
protect - Collinite #845
da - GG6
pads - LC 5.5in or 6in 2 orange 2 white 2 black or red
Some nice plush MF towels!
Click to expand...

I find it VERY HARD to argue with any of those choices. If you wanna add a sealant, I'd pick Menz Powerlock. If you wanna take an extra step and get a higher gloss finish, add some Menz 106FA Super Nano Finish or Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (virtually the same thing).
 
Awesome- couple more questions..
Is ONR Optimum no rinse?
Do I need a cleaner before the 845 or does the UC cover that step?
Where does UC fit on here?

Is UC too much for the Element since it's new?
Thanks!!!
 
ONR - yes
You don't need a paint cleaner after UC but you do need to wash and/or do an IPA wipedown to ensure you got all the UC off before applying 845.
UC would be just below M105 in cut.

I guess it really depends on the condition of the Element. You said it has some crud on it, what does that mean? I've seen some brand new cars that were scratched and swirled pretty bad and needed correcting. They had the free DISO.
 
Last edited:
S2K said:
ONR - yes
You don't need a paint cleaner after UC but you do need to wash and/or do an IPA wipedown to ensure you got all the UC off before applying 845.
UC would be just below M105 in cut.

I guess it really depends on the condition of the Element. You said it has some crud on it, what does that mean? I've seen some brand new cars that were scratched and swirled pretty bad and needed correcting. They had the free DISO.
Click to expand...

I agree!

I have used UC on cars with mild swirls and scratches (bairly noticable) and it worked well...
 
Welcome! I've been reading for a year or more, and the head spinning doesn't stop. You'll learn a lot, I know I did.

And the head spinning isn't as serious as the wallet lightening, lol. Seriously, if you're going to buy stuff anyway, there's no better place than AG to do it.
 
There are some great recommendations above. I don't think any of these correction products is a single pass solution. So I'm afraid your are going to need several passes.
 
dougaross said:
There are some great recommendations above. I don't think any of these correction products is a single pass solution. So I'm afraid your are going to need several passes.
Click to expand...
Which of course will involve...what is it that Mike says? Oh yea, a "test spot".
 
maybe I need to revise my statement ;) I want to do the job right the first time. Does the product list change much with my new found dedication to the task?

CrownKote said:
I found that when the OP said this: "I don't mind a couple of steps, but I don't have time for several passes" that UC and 845 would be my go to for a customer and I in most cases would get great reaction of the finished product.
Click to expand...
 
I just got some WG paint sealant and their polish enhancer (to help cleanse the surface before you seal) and the main reason was because it last so long and it is not supposed to stain plastic like traditional waxes. Sometimes I get a little on the plastic and it's too much work to tape everything off. They also have a swirl remover that you can use. So I would wash, clay, wash again, then use the swirl remover if you have swirls, and if not, use the prep polish enhancer and then the paint sealant and you can throw some wax on top of that if you want. If you are going to use the swirl remover, I don't think you need to use the prep polish.

The important thing is to clean the surface really well before you seal. If you have tar/bugs, get some tar/bug remover. I just got some cheap turtle wax tar remover from the local auto shop and it did really well. The clay bar was taking forever to get it off. The tar remover did it in seconds.
 
mark709 said:
maybe I need to revise my statement ;) I want to do the job right the first time. Does the product list change much with my new found dedication to the task?
Click to expand...

Honestly not really... I have been known on some paints (partially because I love UC so much) to start with an Orange pad and UC then move to a White pad and UC then to my black pad and a sealant or wax... the densities of the foam differ creating a harsher cut and the diminishing properties of UC are great I have had luck with that...

I tend to use UC, the Megs DA MF system, and Prima Cut, Swirl, Finish as my go to correction products...
 
S2K said:
ONR - yes
You don't need a paint cleaner after UC but you do need to wash and/or do an IPA wipedown to ensure you got all the UC off before applying 845.
Click to expand...

I disagree on washing or wipe before wax or sealant. There is nothing in UC that will interfere with a wax or sealant. UC contains water, light petroleum solvents, glycerine and alumium oxide. Nothing there that will bother a wax or sealant. Perhaps the wash/wipedown thing goes back to a time when polishes did contain petroleum oils or perhaps it's just something someone thought up because it sounds so techie and involved.
 
HeavyMetal said:
I disagree on washing or wipe before wax or sealant. There is nothing in UC that will interfere with a wax or sealant. UC contains water, light petroleum solvents, glycerine and alumium oxide. Nothing there that will bother a wax or sealant. Perhaps the wash/wipedown thing goes back to a time when polishes did contain petroleum oils or perhaps it's just something someone thought up because it sounds so techie and involved.
Click to expand...

I will rarely do an IPA or Dawn restrip on fresh compound unless it is a show car correction including wet sanding... And this step is only if there seems to be some sort of film left over...
 
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