Headlight Mess
- Thread starter dlt21
- Start date
I get the same pitting on my S4 headlights as well. Its basically from driving on the highway and getting pelted with sand and debris. Theres nothing short of sanding of down to remove it. But the reality is that the pitting it pretty deep and its a losing battle because when you drive on the highway again, it will slowly come back.
If you do choose to sand them down and refinish them, make SURE that you use serious protection on them afterwards. Because when you sand them down, you remove the UV coating on them. And they will yellow really fast because of that. You should look into Opti-coat 2.0 or CQuarts Dlux or regular CQuarts for a coating on them. If you use just a regular sealant for headlights it lasts 2 months max , if that.
The plastic used on the headlights nowadays if fairly soft so that they bounce back if they get hit with debris without shattering. So they can pit rather easily. Its not just an Audi thing. My dads X5 is worse off than mine as he drives on the highway around 200 miles per day, for 5 days a week.
If you do choose to sand them down and refinish them, make SURE that you use serious protection on them afterwards. Because when you sand them down, you remove the UV coating on them. And they will yellow really fast because of that. You should look into Opti-coat 2.0 or CQuarts Dlux or regular CQuarts for a coating on them. If you use just a regular sealant for headlights it lasts 2 months max , if that.
The plastic used on the headlights nowadays if fairly soft so that they bounce back if they get hit with debris without shattering. So they can pit rather easily. Its not just an Audi thing. My dads X5 is worse off than mine as he drives on the highway around 200 miles per day, for 5 days a week.
Do those films block out or absorb UV light ? Or are they just a topical cover ?
Aussie
New member
- Oct 30, 2011
- 24
- 0
I have read on the 3m website that the film is made up of 3 layers with the top layer being UV resistant. I just tried to look to see if i could find the info again but the 3m website is extremely hard to navigate.
The 3m ventureshield film is rated to 18kg to puncture the film so it would provide protection from rocks/sand/debris.
If you are going to sand them i would apply something like Opti-coat first
What you're seeing is the breakdown of the original factory protective coating. This coating is needed to protect the polycarbonate headlight from UV and moisture.
The only practical cure is to remove this damaged coating and replace it with a new one. Probably easiest fix is to find a professional headlight restorer in your area and have it done for you.
It's fairly easy to remove the original coating with a chemical stripper or sanding, but applying a new coating is difficult and expensive for a single set of headlights.
Applying a synthetic wax is temporary, and will not last. A new protective coating will last for 2 or 3 years or longer if maintained.
You can verify the damage is on the outside of the lens by wetting the surface. If the damage disappears, it's outside. If it does not, it's on the inside.
ray6
The only practical cure is to remove this damaged coating and replace it with a new one. Probably easiest fix is to find a professional headlight restorer in your area and have it done for you.
It's fairly easy to remove the original coating with a chemical stripper or sanding, but applying a new coating is difficult and expensive for a single set of headlights.
Applying a synthetic wax is temporary, and will not last. A new protective coating will last for 2 or 3 years or longer if maintained.
You can verify the damage is on the outside of the lens by wetting the surface. If the damage disappears, it's outside. If it does not, it's on the inside.
ray6
your best bet would be to do a lengthy search on headlight restoration on this site. There are a lot of pro's that post on this site and Autopia that could provide valuable information before you just start sanding away. I suggest you check there threads out first.
Or start a new thread asking specifically about restoration instead of the thread title you have here. There are a lot of experienced pro's on this site from what I have seen in regards to headlight fixing.
Also, I would see how compounding with something like M105 and a 4" wool pad could get you first. I doubt it will remove it completely but it might make it look a hell of a lot better. Like I mentioned earlier, this is a compromise situation because its always gonna come back in the future. Completely removing it is only temporary.
I would bet that some of the folks who post on this site and Autopia have as much or more experience than the local headlight restoration professional. To be honest every shop that I have seen that does headlight restoration are just your typical mechanics where the owner of the shop bought the Professional 3M starter kit for headlight's that comes in a duffel bag. The guys using the chemicals and tools are the same guys who are changing your oil. lol . Pretty far from professionals IMO !
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
I've used this kit before and it's very complete and works really well. I also have a how-to segment coming up on our TV show where I demonstrate it on some wiped-out headlights.
Meguiars Heavy Duty Two Step Headlight Restoration Kit - G3000
It comes with #1000 Grit and #3000 Grit sanding discs and by the time you finish with the #3000 disc the included PlastX with the included wool buffing pad that fits any electric drill will easily remove the sanding marks.
We also demoed this at my last Boot Camp Class.
Pictures & Comments from May 5th & 6th Detailing Boot Camp
Next up is headlight polishing, for this we used the Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight Correction System with a twist, I demonstrated the Meguiar's backing pad for the 3" Sanding Discs but then shared how they also fit on the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher and how working by machine takes all the work out of the project.
Wetting the face of the #1000 Unigrit Sanding Disc with plain water...
Hand sanding... (elbow grease)
Machine sanding (no elbow grease)
Everyone pretty much just wanted to work by machine... here's Jeff machine sanding a headlight lens...
Here's Stephan misting some water onto the face of the sanding disc...
Stephan machine sanding a headlight lens
Don machine sanding...
Products used...
3" Griot's Garage Mini Orbital Polisher
Be sure to get the 3" Foam Interface Pad if you're planning on using the 3" Griot's Garage Mini Polisher for sanding headlights for dampsanding paint.
Meguiars Unigrit 3 Inch Foam Interface Pad
Meguiars Heavy Duty Two Step Headlight Restoration Kit - G3000
I also demonstrated the Flitz ScuffPads
The Flitz Mini ScuffPad is made of resin-coated non-woven abrasives in cut fiber strands. The flexible, durable sanding pads are perfect for contoured surfaces. Use the pads wet or dry.
The Flitz Mini ScuffPad is the equivalent to 1500 grit sandpaper. On scratched headlight lenses, plastics, wood, composite, and metal, the Mini ScuffPad sands down the scratched surface to create a more uniform surface. When you begin polishing, the entire surface is being leveled at the same rate. The results are uniform and smooth.
Flitz Mini ScuffPads 6 Pack, 1500 Grit
Meguiars Heavy Duty Two Step Headlight Restoration Kit - G3000
It comes with #1000 Grit and #3000 Grit sanding discs and by the time you finish with the #3000 disc the included PlastX with the included wool buffing pad that fits any electric drill will easily remove the sanding marks.
We also demoed this at my last Boot Camp Class.
Pictures & Comments from May 5th & 6th Detailing Boot Camp
Next up is headlight polishing, for this we used the Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight Correction System with a twist, I demonstrated the Meguiar's backing pad for the 3" Sanding Discs but then shared how they also fit on the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher and how working by machine takes all the work out of the project.
Wetting the face of the #1000 Unigrit Sanding Disc with plain water...
Hand sanding... (elbow grease)
Machine sanding (no elbow grease)
Everyone pretty much just wanted to work by machine... here's Jeff machine sanding a headlight lens...
Here's Stephan misting some water onto the face of the sanding disc...
Stephan machine sanding a headlight lens
Don machine sanding...
Products used...
3" Griot's Garage Mini Orbital Polisher
Be sure to get the 3" Foam Interface Pad if you're planning on using the 3" Griot's Garage Mini Polisher for sanding headlights for dampsanding paint.
Meguiars Unigrit 3 Inch Foam Interface Pad
Meguiars Heavy Duty Two Step Headlight Restoration Kit - G3000
I also demonstrated the Flitz ScuffPads
The Flitz Mini ScuffPad is made of resin-coated non-woven abrasives in cut fiber strands. The flexible, durable sanding pads are perfect for contoured surfaces. Use the pads wet or dry.
The Flitz Mini ScuffPad is the equivalent to 1500 grit sandpaper. On scratched headlight lenses, plastics, wood, composite, and metal, the Mini ScuffPad sands down the scratched surface to create a more uniform surface. When you begin polishing, the entire surface is being leveled at the same rate. The results are uniform and smooth.
Flitz Mini ScuffPads 6 Pack, 1500 Grit
The pros I'm talking about use professional grade products and warrant their work. Some do headlights only, or as an added service.
My definition of a pro is someone that strips off the old coating through chemical strip or sanding, prepares the surface for a new coating, then applies a new protective coating. Not a wax or polish. A good coating will last for years but requires skill to apply and may require UV to cure.
ray6
My definition of a pro is someone that strips off the old coating through chemical strip or sanding, prepares the surface for a new coating, then applies a new protective coating. Not a wax or polish. A good coating will last for years but requires skill to apply and may require UV to cure.
ray6
The biggest problem with headlight restoration is not making them look good, it's making them last. Nearly every D.I.Y. product on the markit talks about how great the headlight looks when done, but not about longivity.
Headlights are made from polycarbonate, a very porous plastic easily destroyed by ultraviolet light from the sun.
When the headlight was manufactured, it was coated with a coating that seals against moisture and blocks UV. The UV is blocked by converting UV light to heat. Over time this coating will break down. When it does, it turns cloudy or yellow.
Completely removing this coating will make your headlights look like new, but now you have no protection or thin wax protection. Applying wax to the bare surface is no different than applying to paint. How long will it last?
In order to be used on U.S. vehicles, headlights must pass an ANSI exposure test which roughly equates to 3 years Florida sun exposure. These coatings are expensive and difficult to apply. Without this protection headlights will fail.
Passing the 3 year test is not easy. And these factory coatings include primers, electrostatic application, UV or IR baking, etc. so you can imagine how difficult it would be to replicate this in the field.
There are replacement coatings available, but are not suited for the D.I.Y. market. Some require spraying and UV curing. None are available in small quantities although the Sylvania kit comes close. It has a polyurethane 1K coating in it, but not much else. The 3M kit is great for removing the old coating, but no real replacement coating. I guess the best would be combining the two, but now you're talking about $40/50, close to what a pro would charge.
I disagree that there are no pros restoring headlights, because we sell products to them all the time. They may be difficult to find, but they do exist.
A good restoration should include a multi year written guarantee.
I still believe the best course for some is to find a pro based on referrals, warranty, etc;, get them done and keep them coated with a good synthetic wax. Should last the lifetime of the car.
Just my 2 cents worth.
ray6
Headlights are made from polycarbonate, a very porous plastic easily destroyed by ultraviolet light from the sun.
When the headlight was manufactured, it was coated with a coating that seals against moisture and blocks UV. The UV is blocked by converting UV light to heat. Over time this coating will break down. When it does, it turns cloudy or yellow.
Completely removing this coating will make your headlights look like new, but now you have no protection or thin wax protection. Applying wax to the bare surface is no different than applying to paint. How long will it last?
In order to be used on U.S. vehicles, headlights must pass an ANSI exposure test which roughly equates to 3 years Florida sun exposure. These coatings are expensive and difficult to apply. Without this protection headlights will fail.
Passing the 3 year test is not easy. And these factory coatings include primers, electrostatic application, UV or IR baking, etc. so you can imagine how difficult it would be to replicate this in the field.
There are replacement coatings available, but are not suited for the D.I.Y. market. Some require spraying and UV curing. None are available in small quantities although the Sylvania kit comes close. It has a polyurethane 1K coating in it, but not much else. The 3M kit is great for removing the old coating, but no real replacement coating. I guess the best would be combining the two, but now you're talking about $40/50, close to what a pro would charge.
I disagree that there are no pros restoring headlights, because we sell products to them all the time. They may be difficult to find, but they do exist.
A good restoration should include a multi year written guarantee.
I still believe the best course for some is to find a pro based on referrals, warranty, etc;, get them done and keep them coated with a good synthetic wax. Should last the lifetime of the car.
Just my 2 cents worth.
ray6
B
bmwgalore
Guest
@ray6:
That's why most people here on AGO will Opti-Coat their headlights, no one is "waxing" their headlights.
Do you know what Opti-Coat is? Do you really think a "professional" will use the same attention to detail as an AGO member will?
That's why most people here on AGO will Opti-Coat their headlights, no one is "waxing" their headlights.
Do you know what Opti-Coat is? Do you really think a "professional" will use the same attention to detail as an AGO member will?
I know of Opticoat but don't know what it's made of. Not much info on the product page. I do know this; I wouldn't use any coating on someone's headlight if they're paying me without knowing how long it will last. 6 months? 1 year? 2 years? What do you tell the customer?
ray6
ray6