Headlight restoration 50/50.

Part-timer said:
Here are some lights I've done using Hotrods method.
It seems the worse off they are originally, the better they look when your done. (Or, the more of the original coating that is oxidized, the easier they are to sand and the better they are when your finished) The ones I have trouble with are the ones that still have most of the original coating that is good but the top of the lense is oxidized and looks bad. The two used car lots I work with demand a swirl free look/finish. So far, I've been pains-takingly using a coarse grit to totally remove the "good" coating so that I can assure an even look across the whole lens. Another member advised me to try leaving the "good" coating alone and only try to fix the bad top part, then wet sand with 3000 the entire lens and apply a new coating to the whole lens. I have an expedition to do in the morning that only the top part is bad. I'm going to try this method to see if I can blend the good and bad parts without removing the "good" coating. Wish me luck. I unfortunately do not have the advantage of being a bodyman(sucks to be me...lol) just an 22 year auto mechanic.....lol (I hope these pictures show up on the post. My first time with this type stuff)
Click to expand...
Good job on the lights.I haven't clear coated yet, I've been using the 3M system,powered by a twin tank gas compressor so I can go anywhere. Dry 500 & 800,wet 1000 & 3000,then white foam with plastic cleaner, final with black foam and polish.Seems to work fine, I did a 2000 Avalon a year and 3 months ago and they still look good.I have the spar and spirits in the garage, just need to test on a donor first, I've worried about it yellowing.
 
Lou M said:
Good job on the lights.I haven't clear coated yet, I've been using the 3M system,powered by a twin tank gas compressor so I can go anywhere. Dry 500 & 800,wet 1000 & 3000,then white foam with plastic cleaner, final with black foam and polish.Seems to work fine, I did a 2000 Avalon a year and 3 months ago and they still look good.I have the spar and spirits in the garage, just need to test on a donor first, I've worried about it yellowing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the "atta boy"....lol Now, I just need to drum up more business. There are weeks that go by when I have no headlights to do. Dang! Luckily, it's only a weekend extra money thing for me.
 
True story, I'll get a few here and there also,and I have some nice magnetic signs on my truck and advertise on CL. with few bites. The ones I do though, the people are amazed! What do you charge? I'm between 30 & 45 per light, I think that's fair considering the cost to replace them.

:dunno:
 
So I went out and found the spar and mineral spirits at home depot. I found a pack of 3m 800 grit at walmart and a combo pack autozone that has 1-1000, 1-1500, 2-2000, and 1-2500.

All I need is 3000 and Im all set? What did you put between your hand and the sand paper?
 
Is that something I could find at walmart or something? Or is that more specialized like a paint store would have.

Also, do you think I would be fine laying down the mixture after 2500? As it is, all I am missing is the foam block and 3000. I imagine a foam block would be easier to find locally.
 
You can find sanding blocks at hardware stores, auto stores, painting stores, and probably in the painting section of wally world.
 
timaishu said:
Is that something I could find at walmart or something? Or is that more specialized like a paint store would have.

Also, do you think I would be fine laying down the mixture after 2500? As it is, all I am missing is the foam block and 3000. I imagine a foam block would be easier to find locally.
Click to expand...

Some spots i didnt even use no block and did i with my hand. Lay it on top of 2500. It should look just as great.
 
93fox said:
Some spots i didnt even use no block and did i with my hand. Lay it on top of 2500. It should look just as great.
Click to expand...

I am familiar with using the block. Have you used the unigrit discs on your headlight repairs? I know they are way too expensive but I wonder if the results are as good as working by hand
 
Just finished up my headlight. And wow, it looks great!

Only a few issues. I dont think mine came out as good as they could.

About 6 months ago before this. I tried the turtle wax kit which never quite worked. There were a crap load of visible sanding marks left over because the foam sanding pads sucked. So every once in awhile I compounded it and I think from doing it so much I put in some buffer looking marks that a visible at certain angles. I decided to take some UC with a microfiber waxing pad to buff it after wet sanding. Put the mixture on took it outside and I could still see the buffing mark. Ugh.
It looks alot better! I just think I could have done better.

Also, there is a weird mark that almost looks like I missed with the urethan mix, its not glossy.

Im hoping I didnt screw up there because its already drying in the sun. I noticed after it had sat in the sun for about 10 minutes.
 
Lou M said:
True story, I'll get a few here and there also,and I have some nice magnetic signs on my truck and advertise on CL. with few bites. The ones I do though, the people are amazed! What do you charge? I'm between 30 & 45 per light, I think that's fair considering the cost to replace them.

:dunno:
Click to expand...

I charge $40 for two headlamp lenses. If they want seperate turn signal lenses....it's more. This does also works great on stop lamp lenses. I did a buddy of mine's old chevy truck stop lamp lenses and they came out awesome. He was overjoyed! I've been hand sanding every step now and found a great website with wet/dry sandpaper for $15.00 a box of 50 sheets (9' X 11")
 
timaishu said:
So I went out and found the spar and mineral spirits at home depot. I found a pack of 3m 800 grit at walmart and a combo pack autozone that has 1-1000, 1-1500, 2-2000, and 1-2500.

All I need is 3000 and Im all set? What did you put between your hand and the sand paper?
Click to expand...

I hand sand(wet), like 93fox. I DO spend the $$$ on the 3M 3000 grit Trizact 3" discs with a angle drill to finish before spar coating though. I can get several lenses out of one disc before its shot.
 
timaishu said:
Just finished up my headlight. And wow, it looks great!

Only a few issues. I dont think mine came out as good as they could.

About 6 months ago before this. I tried the turtle wax kit which never quite worked. There were a crap load of visible sanding marks left over because the foam sanding pads sucked. So every once in awhile I compounded it and I think from doing it so much I put in some buffer looking marks that a visible at certain angles. I decided to take some UC with a microfiber waxing pad to buff it after wet sanding. Put the mixture on took it outside and I could still see the buffing mark. Ugh.
It looks alot better! I just think I could have done better.

Also, there is a weird mark that almost looks like I missed with the urethan mix, its not glossy.

Im hoping I didnt screw up there because its already drying in the sun. I noticed after it had sat in the sun for about 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

It takes practice to lay down the spar. I still miss spots every now and then. You just have to wipe it off quickly before it dries with mineral spirits. If it dries, it's easy to remove with 1500. Then do 3000 and redo. (just my take on it)
 
Part-timer do you not do a 50/50 mix of Spar and Spirits?
 
Part-timer said:
I hand sand(wet), like 93fox. I DO spend the $$$ on the 3M 3000 grit Trizact 3" discs with a angle drill to finish before spar coating though. I can get several lenses out of one disc before its shot.
Click to expand...

Meguiars makes 3000g sand paper in sheets. it last forever and its not an arm and a leg like those 3m foam disc.
 
Part-timer said:
It takes practice to lay down the spar. I still miss spots every now and then. You just have to wipe it off quickly before it dries with mineral spirits. If it dries, it's easy to remove with 1500. Then do 3000 and redo. (just my take on it)
Click to expand...

I guess you technically could just sand it with 1500 huh. Not like theres any oxidation or scratches to remove at this point because that was already done.

So I could do 1500, and in my case, 2500 and then re-layer the mixture?

I also have a hair stuck on the lense from when I was looking at it. Even more a reason to try again. doh
 
93fox said:
Meguiars makes 3000g sand paper in sheets. it last forever and its not an arm and a leg like those 3m foam disc.
Click to expand...

93fox........I did notice that my source for all of my other wet/dry sandpaper sheets also has 3000 for $15.00 per box of 50 (9' X 11") ....so I may try that also although I really do like how the trizact disc really improves the clarity. I'm not sure if the paper will give the same affect. For $15.00 though, it's definately worth a try! lol:dblthumb2:
 
timaishu said:
I guess you technically could just sand it with 1500 huh. Not like theres any oxidation or scratches to remove at this point because that was already done.

So I could do 1500, and in my case, 2500 and then re-layer the mixture?

I also have a hair stuck on the lense from when I was looking at it. Even more a reason to try again. doh
Click to expand...

Thats what I would do. About your swirl marks in a previous post......if I get a really oxidized set of headlamps....I will sand with an 800 disc using my drill and then hand sand with wet 800 paper, 1000, 1500 and 3000....then spar 50/50. No more swirl marks. I used to have swirl marks too until I switched to this method. Best of luck to you.

P.S. When I started out....I hit up some body shops for junk lenses to practice on and try out new methods.
 
Heres some before and afters for you guys to check out. I may or may not redo this down the line. But as it is. I am very happy!

P1050445.jpg

P1050447.jpg

P1050448.jpg

P1050449.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top