Headlight Restoration, Finishes, Process, Tools, and Discussion! Advice Welcome!

I use the GG6 with 3" backing and 3" microfiber pads. Also using Meguiars sand disks, and I agree I should have spent more time on the sanding stages too. I use Optimum polish and finished with Opti-lens. Like others said, it won't last for an outdoor parked car here in Florida for over a year. I neglected it once it was done though, I'm sure basic UV maintenance would have boosted longevity.
 
I good amount of revenue comes from headlight restoration for me and I feel like I've got it down relatively well. Depending on the severity of the headlights I can start as low as 600 grit and work my way up to 2500. On hand I have 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500. I use an older pc7424 with a 3 inch backing plate. For you I'd highly consider a gg6. I do use a rotary for the polishing however because I do have various products to coat the lens, some of the coatings require a sanded surface
 
usmcpab said:
I good amount of revenue comes from headlight restoration for me and I feel like I've got it down relatively well. Depending on the severity of the headlights I can start as low as 600 grit and work my way up to 2500. On hand I have 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and 2500. I use an older pc7424 with a 3 inch backing plate. For you I'd highly consider a gg6. I do use a rotary for the polishing however because I do have various products to coat the lens, some of the coatings require a sanded surface
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What kind of products to coat the lens? ;) Thank you for this advice, ill pick up a gg6, whats the difference between the two, like what makes a dual action safe for a noobie opposed to the rotary?
 
I'd read elsewhere that you should use a rotary or a drill; that a DA would bog down when it hit the little knobs and protrusions on many modern headlights.


Is this not correct? Those of you using a DA, does it stop spinning when you hit irregular surfaces?
 
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