Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

Siwalsh06 said:
Hey guys i hope someone can answer me soon. I saw this post and decided to try it. My headlights were wet sanded and buffed n polished about r months ago didnt seal them with anything. Well they are already cloudy. So i found this post and gave it a try. I compounded and polsihed the headlights then applied the mixture. Came out great. Well this morning after the dew wore off the headlights they looked horrible. Really streaky. I dont understand why. What did i do wrong? During the day after i applied it the streaks disappered and the headlight looked great. Not its crap. I was able to rub it all off this morning with just a microfiber towel and some pressure. I mixed the stuff in those lil dixie cups. Idk if thts makes a difference. I read something about them on one of the pages. But can anyone help?
Click to expand...

Was the cup you mixed it in paper or plastic. The paper ones have a wax coating on them that may have been dissolved and mixed in with your product.

Another thing if you are using the Spar method, do not compound or polish after sanding. The urethane needs some roughness to hold on to. It should fill the sanding scratches and leave them unnoticeable.
 
Mantilgh said:
Was the cup you mixed it in paper or plastic. The paper ones have a wax coating on them that may have been dissolved and mixed in with your product.

Another thing if you are using the Spar method, do not compound or polish after sanding. The urethane needs some roughness to hold on to. It should fill the sanding scratches and leave them unnoticeable.
Click to expand...

Yes it was a paper cup. I got plastic ones now. And so your saying just went sand it. Then wipe it down with either alcohol or the mineral spirits. Then apply the mixture? No need to buff compound on it? Or buff polish on it?
 
Yes, just sand.

If you compound and/or polish the surface will be too smooth. It will be more likely to flake or peel off.
 
Mantilgh said:
Yes, just sand.

If you compound and/or polish the surface will be too smooth. It will be more likely to flake or peel off.
Click to expand...

Ah ok so thts why my headlights turned out like that then bc it had nothinf to grab to. Well since my headlights are already clean shoukd i just sand mine with like 2000? And then use rhe spar mix?
 
Siwalsh06 said:
Ah ok so thts why my headlights turned out like that then bc it had nothinf to grab to. Well since my headlights are already clean shoukd i just sand mine with like 2000? And then use rhe spar mix?
Click to expand...

Be sure to wipe down with IPA before coating.
 
Siwalsh06 said:
Ah ok so thts why my headlights turned out like that then bc it had nothinf to grab to. Well since my headlights are already clean shoukd i just sand mine with like 2000? And then use rhe spar mix?
Click to expand...

I'm not a painter and I'm not totally positive on what grit would give you the best combination of adhesion and clarity. I'm pretty sure it's discussed somewhere in this thread.

I think around 1000 would work well. Fine enough to be easily concealed, but rough enough to give it some bite.

I use spar urethane on wood working projects and sand with either 220, or 400 grit between coats. I am using it straight though.
 
Mantilgh said:
I'm not a painter and I'm not totally positive on what grit would give you the best combination of adhesion and clarity. I'm pretty sure it's discussed somewhere in this thread.

I think around 1000 would work well. Fine enough to be easily concealed, but rough enough to give it some bite.

I use spar urethane on wood working projects and sand with either 220, or 400 grit between coats. I am using it straight though.
Click to expand...

Ill just drop down to a 1000, 1500, an 2000 on mine bc ima have to get tht stuff off now and then use the urethane
 
So i started with 800 just to get the old uv off. Then went to 1500 then 3000. Didntt have 2000. And i just did a quick pass on 3000. After that i wiped it down with IAP and then the spar mixture. It is clear for sure but im mot sure if its the scratches i can see or if its the lines from the uv. View attachment 54568View attachment 54569
 
I like the idea of the yacht varnish. Can you mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits?
I just checked the U.S. price on Amazon, Wow! $65.00 a can. It has to be cheaper somewhere else.
 
Can anyone who has the gclear light post some specs about it? How long, what's the connector, and what's the make/model of the bulb? I want to use this product for my family's vehicles but the $200 curing light makes it unaffordable since they aren't paying. I don't think the UV in Philadelphia is strong enough in February to sun cure, either. I see they sell a replacement bulb for $40 but I'd still need to find a lamp to put it in.
 
You can cure in the sun, even this time of year. Best results are to do the repair and coat it inside, then put it outside after a couple minutes. I would pick a nice day... sun and at least an average high temp in the 40's... and do it mid-day when the sun is strongest. Should be cured to touch in 20-30 minutes.... let it sit facing sun all afternoon
 
Great, I'll try that. Still would like to hear about the bulb, at least the base. I'd rather get a generic, but I could stomach spending the $40 on a bulb if I got a cheap a handheld lamp to put it in.
 
beren said:
Can anyone who has the gclear light post some specs about it? How long, what's the connector, and what's the make/model of the bulb? I want to use this product for my family's vehicles but the $200 curing light makes it unaffordable since they aren't paying. I don't think the UV in Philadelphia is strong enough in February to sun cure, either. I see they sell a replacement bulb for $40 but I'd still need to find a lamp to put it in.
Click to expand...
i think the sun would be fine you jsut need to keep it there a little longer
 
skipper1 said:
I like the idea of the yacht varnish. Can you mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits?
I just checked the U.S. price on Amazon, Wow! $65.00 a can. It has to be cheaper somewhere else.
Click to expand...

its slightly cheaper on ebay. either way 65 isnt bad for 25 ounces and well worth it if the stuff lasts. im guessing it would be enough for around 150 cars/300 headlights. when i was using the spar i measured a teaspoon (6ml) of spar mixed some MS and it was enough for two headlights.

What i want to know if why this stuff would last any longer than the miniwax spar in the OP.
 
cowandchikin said:
Get clear gloss yacht varnish . In the can the varnish looks slightly golden , however once applied and dried it is crystal clear . Usually I dilute it with mineral turpentine so its quite liquid , then I use a lint free cloth ( like you use to clean glasses ) and apply it in linear strokes across . Be sure to do long strokes from one side to the other side without stopping , apply quickly and evenly . Dont stop and over correct . Leaves a nice gloss finish that dries overnight .

***Its important it is quite liquid or it will leave pattern lines if it is too thick***
Click to expand...
How long do you think the yacht varnish will last on average?
 
I refinished my headlights using the Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Gloss mixed with Mineral Spirits method and they turned out great. My son's headlights needed attention too so I ordered the Light Rite aerosol (aka Lenz Solution) to give it a try as I was worried about the longevity of the urethane but his lights turned out a hazy, milky color and we have the exact same headlights; His is a base model Mazda 3 while mine is a Mazdaspeed 3. The next day I sanded his lights down again and applied the urethane/mineral spirits and they turned out perfect. It took a surprisingly bit of work to sand off the Light Rite so I suspect it would last a long time but the urethane is so much easier to apply and looked so much better that if I have to re-apply it once a year or two it is worth it. I had a few lines the first time so I learned to press the folded blue scott shop towel against the inside of the mixture container to squeeze off any excess and it went on much more smoothly with no lines. Less is better.
 
jeff79 said:
How long do you think the yacht varnish will last on average?
Click to expand...

Well I posted my idea on here a year ago and the headlight is still clear . No sign of peeling , yellowing , etc . My car is not garaged either . So I guess its doing the trick .
 
kaptain_zero said:
This varnish (as all oil based varnishes) darkens or yellows as it ages, only the new water based varnishes will remain clear after curing and aging.
Click to expand...
Has anyone tried a water based varnish? Seems ideal especially if it remains clear after curing and aging. Varathane makes a water based "Gloss Clear Spar Urethane." I found it at Home Depot for $15.98 for 32 oz. I guess you would cut it with water if it is too thick and cleaning up with water would certainly beat having to use mineral spirits.

My headlights were replaced recently after a destructive close encounter of the deer kind, but I am probably going to work on a friend's headlights. If so, I will update here.

Edward
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top