Headlight Restoration on 2009 Mercedes E320

Here's a little before and after on my first ever head light restoration
What you guys think??
Still waiting for it to fully dry to get rid of any orange peel. I used some gloss clear coat and they look amazing.
 
I used the interface pad for the sanding discs which don't come with foam. So I used it with 320, 500 & 800. The 1000, 2000, 3000 come with some foam already built into the discs.
Great review! Do you have to use all of thoses sanding disc when doing a headlight restoration? I have to do mine when it get warmer.
 
Are you able to visually discern exactly when you get through the factory UV coating? For example, if you just sanded in one small area for an extended time, would you at some point see a circle delineating the lack of UV coating in that spot?
 
Great review! Do you have to use all of thoses sanding disc when doing a headlight restoration? I have to do mine when it get warmer.

It depends. If it's just oxidation then you may get away with compounding and or polishing.

If you need to sand then it depends on how far down you go with your grit.

If you started at, say 800, then you would need to work your way up to refine the previous sanding marks.

I could have started at 500 but it would have taken me longer to remove the factory coating and would have gone thru more sanding discs so I started with 320 and knocked it out quicker.
 
Are you able to visually discern exactly when you get through the factory UV coating? For example, if you just sanded in one small area for an extended time, would you at some point see a circle delineating the lack of UV coating in that spot?

You can tell when you don't see any shiny spots or there is a uniform dull hazy appearance with no lines or delineation.
 
Great work Frank! Those lights came out looking like new.

I'm curious how long the WG coating will last on these headlights.
 
Great work Frank! Those lights came out looking like new.

I'm curious how long the WG coating will last on these headlights.

Thanks Marc, I'll see if I can give an update in a year.
 
Nice write-up Frank. Those older E series lights sure had issues with fading. I did one last summer... Hit them with some 105 and then some DLUX.
Nice work!

Thanks Paul.
 
What do you think of using some of that uv resistant and non yellowing spray clear coat?? I've used it on a few vehicles now and all I usually have to do after is get rid of the orange peel depending how visible it is. So far for me it's worked magic

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What do you think of using some of that uv resistant and non yellowing spray clear coat?? I've used it on a few vehicles now and all I usually have to do after is get rid of the orange peel depending how visible it is. So far for me it's worked magic

Sent from my XT1650 using Autogeekonline mobile app

I actually prefer that better. I think it lasts longer than a coating.

With that method you can finish sanding at 1000 or less and then spray the clear.

I was considering that but I was outside and it was a windy day.
 
It depends. If it's just oxidation then you may get away with compounding and or polishing. If you need to sand then it depends on how far down you go with your grit.If you started at, say 800, then you would need to work your way up to refine the previous sanding marks. I could have started at 500 but it would have taken me longer to remove the factory coating and would have gone thru more sanding discs so I started with 320 and knocked it out quicker.
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated
 
I just got in all the disks and a zentool mini for doing this, perfect timing for me to see this write up, great job with it, excited to get to work on one that nasty. Thanks!

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I need to grab some 360 grit. The lowest I have is 500. I really like Mirka Abralon foam back sanding disc.
 
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