Headlight restoration - specifically how you sand

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98LowRanger

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I purchased the $60 Wolfgang headlight restoration kit to do a customers headlights on their Mercedes. I read the instructions and followed them to a tee. I used a high quality, fully charged, 18 volt drill to start removing the heavy oxidation. Using the supplied foam pad and compound I went over it MANY times and it was barely touching it. I finally lost patience and broke out some 1500 and 2500 grit sand paper. It wet sanded off well and I ended up using Megs 105 and 205 to buff it out clear. Hence I feel like I completely wasted $60 on the Wolfgang kit since I didn't really use any of the products to get the end result. I feel like I can use the plastic compound and glaze that were in the kit, but I want to sand the next set of headlights rather then attempt to buff them out with a foam pad. I feel like the sanding is MUCH faster. I'm not saving a whole lot of time wetsanding by hand though so I was wondering if most of you guys use the trizact discs and what tool do you use to sand with (drill, air powered die grinder, a small DA or rotary buffer)??? Any tips would be appreciated!
 
da's were originally meant for sanding, not polishing. if you get a small BP, and some 1500 paper. a da will take that failed protective coat easily. of coarse u will have a multi step process to get rid of the sanding marks. but you sound like you know what yur doing.
 
The best way to restore headlights is to sand em down with 600 grit sandpaper, follow it up with 800 and then 1000 and then shoot clear coat over them. Its pretty much a guarantee that WILL last YEARS... and i mean years! Thats how ive always done em' and they look brand new and are protected with clear coat. Now i know not everyone knows how to use an automotive spray gun or own one for that matter but its not a expensive investment to do specifically headlight restorations.. A small compressor and a touch up gun is all that is needed and of course, a good quality clear!
 
I remember asking what is the difference between something like Opti Lens and clear coat for headlights.

It pretty much came down to UV protection. Where CC doesn't have it and something like Opti Lens does.

I guess if you shoot CC then let it cure and then apply opti coat you would have a strong combination. :dunno:
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I remember asking what is the difference between something like Opti Lens and clear coat for headlights.

It pretty much came down to UV protection. Where CC doesn't have it and something like Opti Lens does.

I guess if you shoot CC then let it cure and then apply opti coat you would have a strong combination. :dunno:
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Premium clears have a lot more uv protection on their own... Ive seen a truck sit outside 24/7/365 for over 10 years that had glasurit clear used on it and the thing had no wax or anything. It was crazy shinny! Like i said, premium clears have more uv protection than lower end ones.
 
DAnewbie said:
da's were originally meant for sanding, not polishing. if you get a small BP, and some 1500 paper. a da will take that failed protective coat easily. of coarse u will have a multi step process to get rid of the sanding marks. but you sound like you know what yur doing.
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I should probably know this, but what do you mean by a "small BP"?

I was looking into getting a the Griot's 3" random orbital polisher. Would be nice for polishing tight spaces including on the headlights if it is powerful enough. Also looking into the Rupes LHR 75E Mini random orbital polisher, but its $300 price tag is not something I can afford at the moment :(
 
93fox said:
Premium clears have a lot more uv protection on their own... Ive seen a truck sit outside 24/7/365 for over 10 years that had glasurit clear used on it and the thing had no wax or anything. It was crazy shinny! Like i said, premium clears have more uv protection than lower end ones.
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Did not know this. Always learning something new. Thanks :props:
 
What polishing machines do you have access to now now?
 
allenk4 said:
What polishing machines do you have access to now now?
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Just a Flex 340 and I have an AirCat right angle die grinder that I use off my 3 hp 12 gallon air compressor.


DaveT435 said:
Small BP means 3 inch backing plate.
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Ah that makes sense...haha. Thanks! Definitely something I am looking for as it could assist me in headlight restorations and in general buffing in areas I have trouble getting to (under some mirrors, front/rear bumpers, etc.). I just need to find the right tool to use the 3" backing plate with.
 
98LowRanger said:
Anyone else have any tips for the sanding part?
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You can use a DA like the Porter Cable for the sanding part. I've sanded with the PC on headlights and automotive paint too.

See :D
[video=youtube_share;ecH8T63zjjg"]Headlght Restoration - YouTube[/video]

I sanded the whole front end of this car using the PC as well with a 6" setup.

MMQdyNtCbd4N8W6HlOJ1RoHhet0sC0yLcZInsDoOrmrIRM31CkCMyEaZA2Pme8_HSA_w2400.jpg
 
Also I think, some headlights do need to be sanded to make them clear again. However, some headlights can be done by just compound/polish combo.

So it always depends on the condition of the headlights IMO. I don't necessarily think it was the kit that didn't get the job done. I think it was more due to it wasn't the right tool(s) for the job. No sanding were done to these.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua2dr5njMiA]Headlight restoration - Dodge Reverse Lights and sealed with Opti Lens - YouTube[/video]

Also some of my videos are only viewable through a PC and not a phone. I don't mind it though since I just do these for fun.
 
Finally (brought this video back from the dead and to life again so drum roll lol :P)

I actually like sanding by hand at the 1500, 3000 grits on headlights. I guess if I need to go more aggressive like 500, 800, 1000 I guess sanding with DA would get the job done faster and then switch to hand sanding at 1500, 3000 to remove any possible pigtails.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im7hj0B9GeQ]Detailing Art - Headlight Restoration - YouTube[/video]

Side Note: I need to ask this question over at Meguiar's TNOG to figure out how I could do all DA sanding i.e. 1000, 1500, 3000 and avoid pigtails. Seems like a small change in technique so I'll ask it next time I go. So for now I hand sand at the 1500, 3000 level. Well if it is a large area I DA sand with 3000. So it all varies.
 
98LowRanger said:
I should probably know this, but what do you mean by a "small BP"?

I was looking into getting a the Griot's 3" random orbital polisher. Would be nice for polishing tight spaces including on the headlights if it is powerful enough. Also looking into the Rupes LHR 75E Mini random orbital polisher, but its $300 price tag is not something I can afford at the moment :(
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just want to let you know i just bought the Griot's 3" and am sorry i did. i was on the fence
too. i didnt want to spend the 300 but if had to do it over i would get the Rupes. guys on here warned me but i didnt listen, shame on me.
 
98LowRanger said:
Just a Flex 340 and I have an AirCat right angle die grinder that I use off my 3 hp 12 gallon air compressor.




Ah that makes sense...haha. Thanks! Definitely something I am looking for as it could assist me in headlight restorations and in general buffing in areas I have trouble getting to (under some mirrors, front/rear bumpers, etc.). I just need to find the right tool to use the 3" backing plate with.
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I use the 3" backing plate on my PC. Haven't had any problems doing headlights. A smaller machine would be nice for the tight areas on paint. I heard the Griots didn't have much power.
 
asalesagent912 said:
just want to let you know i just bought the Griot's 3" and am sorry i did. i was on the fence
too. i didnt want to spend the 300 but if had to do it over i would get the Rupes. guys on here warned me but i didnt listen, shame on me.
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Thanks for the reply! Yea I decided some things are worth spending the extra money on. It's not a MUST have right now so going to wait on it.
 
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