Heaviest Cut Compound?

For everyone reading this into the future....



3M Blue Viny Tape


Worth it's weight in gold...



3M Vinyl Tape 1/4 Inch - 06405

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3M Vinyl Tape 1/8 Inch - 06404

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Menz has FG300 heavy cut compound. i used this on a very hammered ex-rental black Mustang, it cuts better than FG400 and you can work it like FG400.

i was a big Menz fan until i started using the Rupes system. the Blue MF pad and blue Zaphir compound really work well at heavy cutting. it does dust a lot, but is was designed to do so.
 
Calendyr said:
I don't know how much paint a 3000 grit sanding would take away but it's probably in the 40 micron range after compounding and polishing... So on factory paints that have over 240 micron thickness I would not be worried about it.
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I'd rethink that a bit---you don't know how much clear is on there, if it's a nominal 2 mil, you just sanded off 3/4 of it...the recommended max removal for UV resistance is .5 mil, not the 1.5 you say you're sanding off. If I had to guess why Jeep paint is really thick, I wouldn't say it's extra clear, I'd say it's extra e-coat or primer to prevent exposure of the metal substrate when you get trail rash.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
That's a judgment call for each person to make but I do believe that if done correctly, machine sanding with #3000, #4000 and #5000 are safe alternatives to doing a heavy compounding step.
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Well, I don't think it's likely that I'll do that, personally--I originally bought some 3" 5000 grit discs (after you posted a couple of threads about them) with the intent of using them to blend in touched-up chips, but I never did that. However I did use them to follow up 3000 grit sanding on some headlights, and was then able to skip compounding and go straight to polish.
 
7.3powerstroke said:
What machine and pad are you using? I tried it and didnt think it was anything great...
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NextLevelDtail said:
I been wanting to try that stuff, how do you like it
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I tried on a test panel with a hard clearcoat, in a 3D workshop, side to side with Fg400 and Shc300, sanded with 1200 grit; it were used a makita rotary with wool and a rupes 21 with mf.

It was impressive, it cut more than the 400, and a better finish than the 300, it almost removed all sanding marks.

The 3D rep told me that the AAT Rubbing Compound is the HD Cut with a special 'aditive', but he couldn't especify which aditive.

The'finger test', you know, when you rub and press the product with your fingers and smell, to try to understand what it is made of, showed me that the abrasives are really small, nothing like the Meguiar's 100, which I was kinda expecting, therefore it must be really tiny and hard.

It is a powerful compound, aimed for painting shops, I believe, but too harsh for the sh%&£y soft, medium paints I normally work here.

It seems more suited for the hard clearcoats you usually find in USA.

I also tried the 3D AAT Polishing Compound, which I found more versatile, since it cuts a lot depending on your setup (polisher/pad combination). I tried it with a PE14 with meg's cutting mf and I got impressive results, even the 3D rep was amazed, since people around here love wool and not mf, but I'm the opposite (I prefer dealing with the haze induced than swirl induced afterwards).
 
On really bad paints I first wet sand using 3M 3k disk.
Cost a little more being I use about 4 per the avg. sized vehicle.
From what I was told by 3M you take less clear off compared to going over and over using an aggressive compound.

Once sanded it does really fast to buff to a high , swirl free shine.
I don't use the sanding method on every job, just the ones that are really out of hand.
 
This is way overthinking and confusion and to many opinions.keep it simple use what works period.autofinishes are different I agree some hard some soft,arm your self with both scenarios no need to rip apart a compound to its scientific formulation.just do the best you can without making yourself going crazy with all these compounds and sanding cars.At the end of the day it's just a detail.
 
Would I be wrong in saying that 3M Super Duty has more cut than 3M Perfect-It EX compound?

I know that in the past, I think I recall, Mike Phillips referring to 3M Super Duty as a "Rocks-in-a-Bottle" type product. Seems I also recall him referring to XMT #4 as another "Rocks-in-a-Bottle" product...and to be careful using either of these products as they are true heavy-cut compounds.

I sort of assumed that to mean that 3M Super Duty and XMT#4 are some of the heaviest hitting compounds made. Maybe I took that (my assumption) a bit too far. Perhaps Mike could clarify.
 
If your looking for a great cutting compound,try 3 m white compound.I wet sanded a 20000 sq foot flooring in a home with rock hard clear over wood floors.with 9 detailers in the area,they all failed and I got the job done in 9 weeks halograms galore left from the inexperienced detailers.Then after all the sanding compounded it with rotary then removed the swirls then polished.I applied 6 thousand dollars worth of coating to the floors came out beautiful.
 
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