Heavy oxidation on boat?

14automobiles

14automobiles

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I am starting to detail boats and have some questions...

1. How can I remove heavy oxidation from both alluminum and fiberglass boats?

2. I have heard that you should polish only above the hull...true?

3. Can you use wax or sealant on the entire outside of the boat or will this make the boat unstable in the water?

Feed back please
 
Hello, I have used 3M wax restoration and I just heard from a Friend of mines that had his 40FT Luhrs detailed that the guys used this product called AQUABUFF 1000 & AQUABUFF 2000. I plan to use this Aqua Buff next time on my boat ....check it out hope it helps:xyxthumbs:
 
14automobiles said:
I am starting to detail boats and have some questions...

14automobiles said:
1. How can I remove heavy oxidation from both aluminum and fiberglass boats?
Click to expand...

For oxidized gel-coats Meguiar's and 3M both make aggressive compounds you can use with a wool cutting pad with a rotary buffer.

Meguiar's Marine Line Products

3M Marine Line Products - (scroll and look towards the bottom)

For aluminum you always want to find out if it's bare or straight aluminum, and if not if it's coated with something or anodized. You can't buff out anodized aluminum. If it's coated, you need to find out what it's coated with and treat the coating. IF it's bare or straight aluminum then you can polish it with any product recommended for restoring oxidized aluminum.

Check out this page for more information on polishing and restoring aluminum.

Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Polishing System


14automobiles said:
2. I have heard that you should polish only above the hull...true?
Click to expand...

I've heard this before too, some boats have special paints to prevent barnacles from attaching to the hull so you probably wouldn't want to buff this coating off. Probably a good idea to do some extra research on the coatings used on hulls and recommendations for maintenance.

14automobiles said:
3. Can you use wax or sealant on the entire outside of the boat or will this make the boat unstable in the water?
Click to expand...

It won't make it unstable, but check into the different coatings used and find out if there are any limits or recommendations as to how to properly take care of these coatings in any.

:)
Click to expand...
 
The speacial paint is usually black and I wouldn't buff it. It will transfer onto you pads and stain them. Just run some tape along the edge of the paint and the surface to be buffed. I think that the paint is called anti fouling paint or some thing like that. If you don't like how the paint looks go and buy some more and put another coat on. Just remember that a few good gallons of that stuff isn't cheap.
 
bigge 441 is correct its called anti-fouling paint. a lot of boats that stay in the water for extended amoutns of times have it. if the boat is meant to be trailered it might just be the same as the top half and more than likely a gel-coat
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
14automobiles said:
I am starting to detail boats and have some questions...



For oxidized gel-coats Meguiar's and 3M both make aggressive compounds you can use with a wool cutting pad with a rotary buffer.

Meguiar's Marine Line Products

3M Marine Line Products - (scroll and look towards the bottom)

For aluminum you always want to find out if it's bare or straight aluminum, and if not if it's coated with something or anodized. You can't buff out anodized aluminum. If it's coated, you need to find out what it's coated with and treat the coating. IF it's bare or straight aluminum then you can polish it with any product recommended for restoring oxidized aluminum.

Check out this page for more information on polishing and restoring aluminum.

Wolfgang MetallWerk™ Aluminum Polishing System




I've heard this before too, some boats have special paints to prevent barnacles from attaching to the hull so you probably wouldn't want to buff this coating off. Probably a good idea to do some extra research on the coatings used on hulls and recommendations for maintenance.



It won't make it unstable, but check into the different coatings used and find out if there are any limits or recommendations as to how to properly take care of these coatings in any.

:)
Click to expand...


thanks Mike. I will also do some more research on where to wax and where not to wax on a boat's exterior.
Click to expand...
 
When doing the hull go from the rub rail to the water line.
four star makes very good marine products.
 
Tom N said:
When doing the hull go from the rub rail to the water line.
four star makes very good marine products.
Click to expand...


So don't go below the water line with any buffing? If there is oxidation build up below the water line what should I do to get it off without buffing? thanks
 
14automobiles said:
So don't go below the water line with any buffing? If there is oxidation build up below the water line what should I do to get it off without buffing? thanks
Click to expand...

And this is they type of problems you run into when you start detailing boats that have specialty coatings.

At this point, you might want to start researching more information specif to marine watercraft coatings and marine detailing.

Make sure you can make it profitable too... I've only detailed a few large boats and it wasn't fun and barely profitable and in each case the owner's expectations were very high. It's definitely a niche that can be carved out but if you're going to to it you might as well do it right and that will start with getting head knowledge, not hands-on knowledge.


:)
 
14automobiles said:
If there is oxidation build up below the water line what should I do to get it off without buffing? thanks
Click to expand...

If the bottom of the boat is indeed covered with anti fouling paint you do not want to disturb it what so ever. A gal. of good anti fouling paint can easily cost 2 to 3 hundred dollars. The paint is basically 80% copper or tin suspended in some type of rosin. A gal. of this paint can easily weight about 25 lbs. compared to a 8 lbs. for a normal paint.

Once applied to the bottom of the boat this paint will dissolve over time to release the metal particle contained inside it. These metals produce a poison that inhibits marine growth from adhering to its surface. In Florida you will be luck to get 1 year out of your anti fouling paint.

Anti fouling paint is usually black,blue or burnt red and has a chalky appearance to it. If you wipe your hand across it the color coat will easily transfer to your hand.

Talk with the owner. If he has a anti fouling paint applied he will tell you to leave it alone. If the Bottom is raw clear gel coat he may or may not want it polished. This is always considered an extra when detailing a boat.

If the bottom is painted with a regular paint ( Highly unlikely) then again, it would be considered an extra.

Now sail boats are a whole nother story....
 
I am currently restoring a 1989 Ski boat that has severe oxidation. The process/products that I used were as follows. I first wetsanded the entire boat with 3000 grit paper. This helps remove a lot of the oxidation. I then followed that up with 3M Marine Rubbing Compound on a wool pad. This cut out the chalky/rough gelcoat. I then followed that up with Megs 67 One Step Compound on a LC orange pad. This left an amazing finish and was definitely LSP ready but I wanted to see if I could get an even better shine. I then tried the Megs 49 Oxdation remover (which has an even finer abrasive) and I got an even better shine. For LSP I used Collinite FleetWax.

For moderate oxidation I would start with the Megs 67. I was really happy with the results and I beleive that it really is a one step product.

It is a labor intensive process but it is well worth the effort!
 
Last edited:
ruminskirl said:
If the bottom of the boat is indeed covered with anti fouling paint you do not want to disturb it what so ever. A gal. of good anti fouling paint can easily cost 2 to 3 hundred dollars. The paint is basically 80% copper or tin suspended in some type of rosin. A gal. of this paint can easily weight about 25 lbs. compared to a 8 lbs. for a normal paint.

Once applied to the bottom of the boat this paint will dissolve over time to release the metal particle contained inside it. These metals produce a poison that inhibits marine growth from adhering to its surface. In Florida you will be luck to get 1 year out of your anti fouling paint.

Anti fouling paint is usually black,blue or burnt red and has a chalky appearance to it. If you wipe your hand across it the color coat will easily transfer to your hand.

Talk with the owner. If he has a anti fouling paint applied he will tell you to leave it alone. If the Bottom is raw clear gel coat he may or may not want it polished. This is always considered an extra when detailing a boat.

If the bottom is painted with a regular paint ( Highly unlikely) then again, it would be considered an extra.

Now sail boats are a whole nother story....
Click to expand...



Thats correct.
A typical detail to a boat hull is from the rub rail to the water line.
If the bottom of the hull is just bare gelcoat than you can polish it and wax it. But it should be extra and I almost never get a request to do the bottom.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
And this is they type of problems you run into when you start detailing boats that have specialty coatings.

At this point, you might want to start researching more information specif to marine watercraft coatings and marine detailing.

Make sure you can make it profitable too... I've only detailed a few large boats and it wasn't fun and barely profitable and in each case the owner's expectations were very high. It's definitely a niche that can be carved out but if you're going to to it you might as well do it right and that will start with getting head knowledge, not hands-on knowledge.


:)
Click to expand...

Good points Mike.:dblthumb2:
 
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