Help a rookie out with soft paint

50spence said:
Definitely makes sense. Never thought about that before. I'm using a closed cell pad, but I'm probably saturating it. I was paranoid about not having enough product so I can guarantee I used too much. I wish I knew someone in Savannah that could give me some pointers in person.
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The green ccs is also an open cell pad.

Definitely don't need a lot of product for that pad.
 
builthatch said:
welp, i'm confused.

on the buff & shine site, in the foam section, it says they use open cell, explain why, and also explain why closed cells is inferior.

in their 4" pad chart, orange and yellow are unreticulated (aka non-reticulated aka closed), green and black are reticulated (open). (there are other colors too but i don't use them).

in their 5.5" chart, orange is "euro pre-polymer" and the rest are reticulated. i am not sure what the cell status is of euro pre-polymer. (edit: ok, found on another brand's site that it's closed too.)

i tried to ask them about all of this using their question submission box but when i hit send it had some sort of site error message. hitting back just gave me an empty box again. so annoying.
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I was researching that a couple weeks ago.

I went off the 5.5" flat d/a pads for my assessment, as well as observing / using the pads I have on hand.
 
50spence said:
Thanks guys, unfortunately I have been sent out of town for work this week so I can't get any pictures. It is the pads doing the damage, not the towels. I had my DA set on 6 and would do five or six passes. Some areas it looked fine, other areas you could see the path of the pad in the paint. I could only fix it by going back over it lightly. It got to a point where I'd get it "close enough" and not very noticeable, but of course I want to use this as a learning experience to figure out what I did wrong.
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Surprised no one has addressed this component
 
If you have not already solved the riddle of your paint, here are my suggestions

- Always do a Test Spot for each step of your paint correction process

- If you are getting marring; Slow everything down (machine speed, arm speed)

- Clean pads more frequently and change to a fresh pad more often

- Decrease downward pressure on the machine


Of all of the suggestions you have received in this thread, the most important one is that the Test Spot tells no lies
 
Optimum Fine Polish II works great on soft paints.
Aggressive enough to remove light swirls but yet gentle enough for soft paint.
It's my go to polish on softer paints.

Long work time
Adjust the cut by using different pads
No dusting
Very long work time
Little goes a long ways
Easy to remove

My wife's RAV4 has single stage paint, Optimum Polish works great to maintain the paint.
 
fly07sti said:
See post #2. This and pressure were addressed to the OP along with how much product he was using etc.
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I saw that

You Asked

He responded, "Speed 6" and that was the end of it


I think that simply decreasing his machine speed to 4-4.5 might fix everything
 
allenk4 said:
I saw that

You Asked

He responded, "Speed 6" and that was the end of it


I think that simply decreasing his machine speed to 4-4.5 might fix everything
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Indeed that would. I'd bet on it.
 
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