Help build a G9 “kit”

[MarkD51]

I ended up canceling my order and re-ordering everything with 5.5” pads (LC flat).

I got mostly orange, a couple of black ones and a couple of blue ones.

I’m sure I’ll end up with more pads once I do one of our vehicles.

Thanks everyone.

Surely don't wish to argue with other members here over the choices you choose. Both machines are very nice. I think you will see the advantages to have the ability to use smaller Backing Plates and Pads on the GG6.

Wise move switching to getting 5.5" Pads. They are generally quite adequate in size, even when doing large Pickup Trucks, and full size SUVs.

And sure, over time you can further equip the GG6 with other sizes and types of Plates and Pads, such as 4" Pads too. Lake Country makes a Yellow Urethane Backing Plate that measures precisely 3-7/8", which gives some margin of safety of overlap when using 4" Pads.

I think most will agree, that buying the thinnest pads from any brand will be the way to go. They're all carried here BTW so no need to search the web, there's Meguiars, Griots, Lake Country, Buff&Shine, Carpro, etc.on and on.

The Orange LC Thinpro Pads are plenty aggressive enough for corrections, and the degree of correction will vary dependent then on what Polishes you team with such Pads. Same with the White Thinpro Pads which I'd say are your general all around Pads to use for corrections to remove swirls, hazing, and light scratches.

The Red, Blue and Black Pads from LC are their softest Pads, and they can be used for correction, or like with a product like you wish to purchase and use such as Blackfire AIO. They are very soft to the point that they can be used for applying waxes and sealants as well.
They don't offer a lot of cut, but can be used, dependent on the degree of correction needed.

I'm sure over the next couple months, AG will host many good sales. They always do during the holidays. At those times you can further compliment your machine with more Pads, I'd say definitely get yourself a 1/2 dozen of the White Thinpro to have on hand.
Another wise thing to have, is to buy about a 1/2 dozen of the Backing Plate Fiber Washers, in case you damage or lose one. You must always use these Washers to insure proper safe operation, so the Plates don't contact the Counterweight in operation.

The Wolfgang trio of Polishes, Uber Compound, Total Swirl Remover, and Finishing Glaze, while a little bit expensive are exemplary, and will cover all the basic bases as far as general corrections. It is said these Polishes are all made by Menzerna for AG-Wolfgang.

What I've done with my three Polishing machines (PC7424, Griots Boss-15, Griots GG3) is outfitted them all with cheapo Plastic Stanley Tool Boxes from somewhere like Wally World. Thus for each machine, I have all Backing Plates, Handles, Washers; Wrenches, and Manuals inside so that they all remain in one place to be had whenever needed. And I always keep all machines inside, never in some unheated shed-garage where heat and cold could possibly be detrimental to them.

Hope this helps.

 

[PaulMys]

You'll love the GG6 Brian.

As you mentioned above, the name of the game (ideally) is to do your major correction once, then with proper washing/maintenance you will only have minor correction to do in the future.


Like the guys said above, the GG6 can tackle it all. Have fun with it!

 

[brianc636]

I’m excited to get it and tackle the boy’s Honda to see how clean I can get it.

It needs some work up front (paint chips on the bumper are horrid) but for his first car it’s pretty clean.

The wife’s car will be a labor of love but at least it’s white and as long as it looks clean, she’s happy.

 

[MarkD51]

You'll love the GG6 Brian.

As you mentioned above, the name of the game (ideally) is to do your major correction once, then with proper washing/maintenance you will only have minor correction to do in the future.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I might debate (Amicably) the theme of "once".

Meaning, you don't need to hammer your paint with polish corrections to the point of not being able to safely do future details.

I think too many detailers with machine in hand place in their minds that they have to buff the bejesus out of the vehicle like they're going for a Top Flight-Silver or Golden Spinner Trophy at some show.

Sure, Mike Phillips and numerous detailers here (many are pros) got us all chomping at the bit to go to the nines with not one, but two or three step polish routines, and next thing you know, you're coming back here six months from now, telling us how it looks like you might have clear coat failure.

I'm not a pro, but been in the game long enough, that even just a decent dog bath and a wax job will have your vehicle looking tits.

It surprising just how hammered vehicles in the 2007-2017 range look like they've sat in a desert for years on end. There's only one reason....neglect.

Thus, if you take your new GG6, a bottle of Blackfire One Step, and even just the Blue or Black LC Pads. Have a little fun, do some section passes, take your time, and maybe only get a 50%-65% full correction, trust you will still be wowed.

The differences will be night and day, you'll be happy that things do look a lot better, you'll be amazed at what "you can do", you'll come away with a medal on your chest, You'll come away with that first Machine Detail with some good experiences and a good learning knowledge, that months of lurking, and asking countless questions just cannot duplicate.

We'll all definitely want to see you come back, tell us about your experiences, and yep, we'll all be here to offer further help, ideas, and input.

 

[MarkD51]

If you haven't, definitely watch some of Mike's videos with use of a DA Machine.

You'll see start to finish, priming a pad techniques, how he spreads product onto the paint, will likely "kiss the paint" to distribute the polishing product over a small area. Then start the machine on a slow speed to further spread the product over a small section.

Then dial up the power. For the GG6, that speed will likely be speed 5 on the dial. Have decent down pressure, maybe 7-12 lbs, insure the pad is flat-parallel to the surface, mark the backing plate with a sharpie pen to keep tabs on pad rotation, this is highly important. You want to see that pad spin round and round as you go.

Section passes, back and forth, up and down in a square, boxlike area, and insure good overlap. After the section pass is done, take a MF towel, wipe away your work, and inspect. Look carefully. It is your hand and eye which you much also master.

This hand and eye thing and experience is what make master detailers, the likes of Mike Phillips, and many others here possess such mastery of this hobby, and "art". Oh, and lighting helps, if you can't see, then it's like a blind person detailing.

One hard thing I learned, and still every once and awhile I screw up, is lifting the machine off the paint while it's still spinning. You'll scatter polish spatter all over the place, can't tell you how many times I've said oh crap! Let the pad stop on the paint.

Towels, you almost cannot have too many. I'd rather have 1-1/2 dozen cheapo Sam's Club MF Towels on hand, than just one or two Gold Plush.