Help- Have some paint cloudiness that won't go away.

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cwkoch

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Well, a while back I did some of my first paint correction I've ever done on my black Z06. Used a Porter Cable random orbital with Lake Country pads. I used some Wizards swirl remover to get rid of the swirls, then followed that up with Klasse All in One, then the Klasse sealer. After that I waited about 6-8 hours and applied Collonite Insulator Wax. The car looks great in the shade, or in the flourescent lights in the garage, but out in the direct sunlight I have some cloudiness in the paint. I'm not sure if I applied too much of one of the products, or didn't wait long enough in between certain products. I thought the cloudiness might go away after a couple washes, but it hasn't after about 4 washes.

I've used the Collonite insulator wax previously on my black truck, as well as my black boat, and never had any problems. I'm suspecting one of the Klasse products may have done it, but I'm just not sure. I've also used the Wizard's swirl remover before on my truck, followed up directly by the Collonite Insulator wax, and didn't have a problem then. So, the 2 Klasse steps are really the only new product in the mix here

Is there a product I could use to strip all the wax and Klasse sealer off, and then re-apply just the wax? Does anyone have any other suggestions?
 
I would have waited 12 hrs. cure time on the sealant. I don't know if that is the problem or not.
 
What pads did you use to do the correction? The cloudiness is most likely marring from a heavy compounding step that wasn't refined. KAIO isn't going to give you much, if any correction, so you really need to have the paint almost perfect before you use that step.
 
does it look anything like the left side of the panel or is it more an overall haziness

CGBL_KSG_vs_nothing1.JPG


could be the ksg wasn't fully removed. When I took this pic, I thought I had removed it all but at this angle, that obviously wasn't the case...

845 should have cleaned it off though. Maybe try another coat of 845 on a small section but do a WOWO i.e don't let it haze and see if that helps.
 
Flannigan said:
What pads did you use to do the correction? The cloudiness is most likely marring from a heavy compounding step that wasn't refined. KAIO isn't going to give you much, if any correction, so you really need to have the paint almost perfect before you use that step.
Click to expand...

I think it was a white pad with the swirl remover.... It doesn't look hazy due to scratches, it's more of a cloudy look, it varies by area. Hard to explain, but it looks chemical, not mechanical.

embolism said:
does it look anything like the left side of the panel or is it more an overall haziness

CGBL_KSG_vs_nothing1.JPG


could be the ksg wasn't fully removed. When I took this pic, I thought I had removed it all but at this angle, that obviously wasn't the case...

845 should have cleaned it off though. Maybe try another coat of 845 on a small section but do a WOWO i.e don't let it haze and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Kinda sorta like the left side, but not streaky, more cloudy....

I think I'll try more 845 on it. Should I go real light with a red Lake Country pad, then wipe off immediately after that?
 
I put the ksg on that way but if I did it using circles, my haze might have been circular like clouds.

before breaking out the DA and priming a pad, just take a bit of 845
on a hand applicator and do a test spot. Work a bit on top of a hazy section then wipe it off
 
I'm willing to bet you needed to go another step with a finer polish.
 
Sounds like you need a finishing polish. Something like megs 205 will do the trick. That swirl remove won't leave swirls behind but it does leave a haze or cloudieness behind that is actually micro-marring.
 
Does the OP need to strip the 845 and KSG or would just going over it with 205 work?

How do you strip that combo anyhow? 4:1 APC plus dawn?
 
Dr Oldz said:
Sounds like you need a finishing polish. Something like megs 205 will do the trick. That swirl remove won't leave swirls behind but it does leave a haze or cloudieness behind that is actually micro-marring.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'm kinda new to a lot of this....

If I just went at it now with a finishing polish, that will strip the wax and sealer, and take care of the cloudiness? Then, I can go straight back to the 845 if I want, or do the Klasse steps in the middle again?
 
cwkoch said:
Thanks for the info. I'm kinda new to a lot of this....

If I just went at it now with a finishing polish, that will strip the wax and sealer, and take care of the cloudiness? Then, I can go straight back to the 845 if I want, or do the Klasse steps in the middle again?
Click to expand...

Yes it will strip everything.
 
cwkoch said:
Well, a while back I did some of my first paint correction I've ever done on my black Z06.

Used a Porter Cable random orbital with Lake Country pads. I used some Wizards swirl remover to get rid of the swirls, then followed that up with Klasse All in One, then the Klasse sealer.

After that I waited about 6-8 hours and applied Collinite Insulator Wax. The car looks great in the shade, or in the fluorescent lights in the garage, but out in the direct sunlight I have some cloudiness in the paint.
Click to expand...

Did you do all of the above to the entire car? And then find out afterwards there is a problem?

Ouch...

If so, this is a good example of why it's a good idea to do what's called a Test Spot or a test section with all the products you plan on using over the entire car but first only to a small section and then inspect under different lighting conditions.

It's also a good idea, especially if you're new to working with an abrasive polish and machine application on a black car, especially a black clearcoated Corvette to strip your test spot after all the abrading steps and then inspect the results.

At this point if there's a problem with any part of the process, that could be the pad selection, product selection or your technique, at least the problem is isolated to a small area and not the entire vehicle.


:)
 
One thing you can do to trouble shoot the problem is get a different finishing polish like Dr Oldz stated and then lay a strip of painters tape on a horizontal panel and buff on just one side of the tape.

See if switching to a different light or finishing polish will undo the damage. You need to dial-in a process that works and proves itself in one small area before attempting to buff out the entire car again.

Do you have any other polishes?

Megs 205 works good, so do their consumer products, as do any of the finishing polishes by Menzerna. Wolfgang Twins and Pinnacle Twins also work very well. Lots of choices.

Testing is of utmost importance.

As you can see though, plenty of helpful and knowledgeable people here on the forum to help see you through to sucess...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Dr Oldz said:
Sounds like you need a finishing polish. Something like megs 205 will do the trick. That swirl remove won't leave swirls behind but it does leave a haze or cloudiness behind that is actually micro-marring.
Click to expand...

I've never used the Wizards polishes but one thing for sure, the key to any quality swirl remover is the abrasive technology.

:)
 
Here's a portion from this article, do you have a Swirl Finder Light?

The difference between Rotary Buffer Swirls, Cobweb Swirls and Micro-Marring

Micro-Marring - Tick-Marks - DA-Haze

These three terms are pretty much the accepted terms for a scratch pattern left in some paints from the oscillating and rotating action from a compound or polish and a buffing pad when applied using a DA Polisher.

Unlike Cobweb swirls or Rotary Buffer Swirls, the scratch pattern instilled by a dual action polisher is made up of millions of tiny scratches, some are curved or circular but some are straight, like a small tick mark you would make with a pencil if you were keeping track of a count of some type.

Tick Marks are a sign that either the paint is on the soft side, so easily scratched or the pad and compound or polish you're using are too aggressive to finish out without leaving a mark.

In most cases Tick Marks can be removed by re-polishing with a different pad and product combination.

MicromarringTickMarks01.jpg


MicromarringTickMarks02.jpg
 
Check this article out too... it's a good idea to check but you want to do so in a safe manner...


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


Here's just the how-to check portion of the above article...


How To check your work

Removing Compound and Polish Residue to check your Correction Results
Now that you have a safe diluted mixture of IPA and water, if you want to check your work during any of the correction steps, (Compounding or Polishing), simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry.


Removing Previously applied Wax or Paint Sealant
As mentioned previously in this article, IPA is not always effective at removing all forms of protection ingredients, but it's really hard to gauge the effectiveness at the molecular level. So as with a lot of things in life, sometimes the most you can do is the most you can do...


If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry.


Safety Precautions

Always wear the appropriate safety gear when working with chemicals. This would include safety glasses, protective gloves and a shop apron to prevent spills from getting on your clothes.


Common, easily found options for Isopropyl Alcohol also called IPA
All3IPAOptions.jpg
 
cwkoch said:
Thanks for the info. I'm kinda new to a lot of this....

If I just went at it now with a finishing polish, that will strip the wax and sealer, and take care of the cloudiness? Then, I can go straight back to the 845 if I want, or do the Klasse steps in the middle again?
Click to expand...

The finish polish(megs 205)will indeed remove and strip what wax and sealer you have on there. So I would go right to the 205(or whatever finish polish with abrasives you choose). I have tested a few of the Wizards polishes out so I am somewhat knowledgeable about them. They do indeed cut well but do not finish so well IME(like you are experiencing).

Anyway if you choose 205 try a test spot like Mike has suggested then look at it from different angles and lighting. Then if that is satisfactory go to your next step: The Klasse or 845 and have another look. Good luck and keep us posted!
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Did you do all of the above to the entire car? And then find out afterwards there is a problem?

Ouch...

If so, this is a good example of why it's a good idea to do what's called a Test Spot or a test section with all the products you plan on using over the entire car but first only to a small section and then inspect under different lighting conditions.

It's also a good idea, especially if you're new to working with an abrasive polish and machine application on a black car, especially a black clearcoated Corvette to strip your test spot after all the abrading steps and then inspect the results.

At this point if there's a problem with any part of the process, that could be the pad selection, product selection or your technique, at least the problem is isolated to a small area and not the entire vehicle.


:)
Click to expand...

Yes- Did the whole car. It looked great in the flourescent lights of the garage, which I've always thought show more than the sun does.... It's only in direct sunlight thought that this cloudiness is showing up. It looks great in the garage, or in shade.
 
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