Help! I USED TO MUCH?

They did wet sanding and buffing. It does have the factory "orange peel" look for a good match with the existing finish and the color match ( hemi orange pearl ) is right on. It wasn't heat baked. I suspect it is like a lot of shops, get-r-done when it comes to polishing/buffing the new paint. If I can just get a few light scratches out, cannot feel with fingernail, and holograms out I'll be a happy camper. Should I wait 30 days for "outgassing"? Or can I lightly polish with something that will not "seal/cover" the paint? What would be a good product to use by hand with a foam applicator I could use now with the soft paint? Or wait?
 
If the color matches and the orange peel matches, then it seems to me they did their job. (Just advice don't wet sand, because who knows what's under there, could be bondo, "which I doubt, but who knows" )

As far as applying waxes and sealants, I'll let other chime in...
 
CAMMIN HEMI said:
They did wet sanding and buffing. It does have the factory "orange peel" look for a good match with the existing finish and the color match ( hemi orange pearl ) is right on. It wasn't heat baked. I suspect it is like a lot of shops, get-r-done when it comes to polishing/buffing the new paint. If I can just get a few light scratches out, cannot feel with fingernail, and holograms out I'll be a happy camper. Should I wait 30 days for "outgassing"? Or can I lightly polish with something that will not "seal/cover" the paint? What would be a good product to use by hand with a foam applicator I could use now with the soft paint? Or wait?
Click to expand...

I re read this, they left Holograms? I am new to removing Holograms, so I'll tune in on this...
 
I cut & buff and polish the very next day after shooting the clearcoat.

Outgas can vary depending on how much solvent type basecoat and clearcoat has been applied, also if it's a garage queen that sees very little sunlight. You already posted it wasn't baked... I've been painting since the 70's and my rule of thumb is: 3+ coats of base 3+ coats of clear + little sunlight for curing = 90 days to be safe. If it has a waterborne base system there was zero solvent in the base it will take less time to outgas. This info should be in the P-Sheet (product sheet) of the system used. But remember 3+ coats of clear is considered "custom" work and the p-sheet's recommendation of wait time before waxing or sealing should be extended IMO.

I've been using SPI clear recently and It blows away PPG, BASF and DuPont Chromabase clears performance wise IMO. Their wait time matches what I've been doing 35+ years (90 days).

SPI Products said:
Never wax a paint job applied this way for at least 90 days. This also depends on the amount of sunlight the car has been exposed to
Click to expand...

Southern Polyurethanes "The Perfect Paint Job"

ETA: Remember when polishing you HAVE to use a bodyshop safe product! Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish IS NOT bodyshop safe, whereas Meguiars M105/M205 is a bodyshop safe product with no silicone's or waxes added.
 
Oh crap! I did lightly buff the scratches and swirls by hand with the red foam pads from Autogeek using Meg's UC. Visually it came out great & looks much better. I was very careful not to use to much pressure and kept wiping off the compound with a microfiber checking the results frequently. Should I now use something to wipe off the areas I worked on? I was unaware Meg's UC would have anything in it to cover/wax/seal the finish. Thanks!
 
I'd do an IPA wipe down to be safe. Since you're going to be waiting awhile before waxing I'd pickup a product like M205 to keep that panel looking nice until the outgasing is complete.

I've just finished some painting on my truck. I shot the front bumper in June and the tailgate/spoiler last week. I'm waiting until Sept & Nov (respectively) before waxing those panels. Until then I'm using M205 when/if needed for lite water spots etc.

While researching I found conflicting answers whether Ultimate Compound is bodyshop safe (both from Michael Stoops). Not sure what to think. The bottle dose not refer either way.

Meguiars Online

Meguiars Bodyshop Safe or Not
 
So they spotted the clear in and did not clear the entire panel to a seam or break? If so, I am surprised a good shop did this. Blending clear is highly frowned upon and simply not the right way to do it. The blend will eventually be seen from my experience and the clear will fail in the blend area much faster. Hopefully I just read the description of the job wrong.
 
They spot was repaired at my request, reluctantly. I didn't want a lot of paint work on such a new car ( see my previous post on all it would have involved ). They did use a natural crease/bend in the fender as a break point by back-masking. They did do an exceptional job painting. There were no rough edges and anyone looking at the car would not be able to tell it was done ( except me! ). I'm hoping I can keep it looking this good by keeping it polished-sealed-and waxed every 3 months and using something like Optimum wax after every wash. Or is this just wishful thinking on my part? The shop said UV damage would eventually reveal the spot repair. What would be a good IPA to use to remove anything left behind after I used the Meg's UC, but be kind to the new paint? Thanks for your help!!!
 
For fresh paint IPA (isopropyl alcohol) can be risky mixed over 10%. A safer approach would be a bodyshop safe paint cleaner like Menzerna Top Inspection. This can also be used as a quick detail product to remove finger prints on the fresh paint etc.

Also Groit's Paint Prep or you could just re-polish with a bodyshop safe polish like M205 to remove the UC residue. Like I posted earlier, conflicting info on UC being bodyshop safe or not.

You could drive back to the bodyshop and let them wipe that panel down with a wax & grease remover.
 
Thanks! I think I'll just stop by the body shop and have them give it a quick wipe off. Is there anything I can do to stop the spot repair from deteriorating to the point it is visible?
 
I agree Art!! I've got it looking pretty good now by lightly hand compounding with Meg's UC. I think going foreword I'll just use Meg's #7 glaze to hide the small stuff and keep it covered with Optimum wax after the paint cures. Sound like a good plan? My main goal is to preserve the spot repair and paint blend as long as possible.
 
I applied no.7 and wax on my Mom's Red Prius, I didn't want to correct the paint, since they keep taking it to the local car wash.

It's a 2012 but it still looks pretty good, the swirls are starting to show again however.

Your plan sounds good
 
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