Help Me Detail My 2013 Civic SI

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civicsi13

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Well been doing a lot of reading and researching about detailing my car. I have always enjoyed keeping my car clean and waxed but been wanting to take it to the next level. I had a question about 4" pads on the gg da and posted a question over in the polishers section. Ended up writing a big post on what im doing and decided to post it over here in the general section also. Feel free to give your opinion and help me restore my civic :)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ion-polishers/89061-4-pads-griots-garage.html
 
Man over a hundred views and no help or advice for a noob. Did I do so something wrong?
 
I think it's just a little hard to follow what advice you are looking for since this thread has no detail and the other thread is about backing plates.

Let me start by saying in the other thread you have a scratch down to the primer that you are going to wetsand. DON'T DO THIS. All you will do is compromise the paint around the scratch. You need to replace the paint that is gone from the scratch, there are some good scratch repair threads here that I'll try to look for and edit into my response.

EDIT: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/73186-fx35-scratch-repair.html?highlight=scratch

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ism-key-scratch-repair.html?highlight=scratch



I wouldn't suggest learning to wet sand on your pride and joy. All of the combo's you have listed are a little too aggressive for my taste, I would skip the wool pad, use the cyan pad with the Uber compound, the tangerine with the TSR, the Finishing Glaze probably the tangerine pad also.

I know your ready to jump right in with some of this stuff, on the one hand you say you're comfortable with a rotary but on the other you say you're a noob who knows little about it. I would dial back the cockiness and start less aggressively--I'm not sure what car you used a rotary on for wax removal when you were a "young teen", but I bet it wasn't a new car, and I bet it wasn't yours.
 
There's a thread that I believe Mike Phillips started that shows one how to more effectively ask questions here on AutogeekOnline.

Can't find it though, so maybe someone else knows where it is at?

I think it'll help you Civicsi13 on trying to get some better answers.
 
Thanks Setec, I agree there is no real direction with the thread. Had a simple bp/pad question and kind of decided to spill what I was working on just to make sure I wasn't going the wrong direction. I apologize if I came off cocky, i'm a big do it yourself guy and don't trust the average jo or uneducated. Rather teach myself and do it right, I am keeping in mind that the rotary takes lots of experience but gotta start somewhere.

As a teen they actually were my cars I worked on but they were not anything special and i sure didn't care about detailing at the time like I do now. Im much more educated and concerned about my cars finish now than then.

I need to wash the car and try and get some detailed pictures of the paints condition so I can get some advice on the proper products I should be using. Im wanting to use the wolfgang combo and most likely will invest in a dual action polisher to get me started.
 
Here is the worse scratch and some spots on the trunk lid.



 
You absolutely can get great results and I'm sure you will. But if you knew how many threads I've read that started "I was wetsanding a scratch (or "I got some rubbing compound at Wal-Mart to fix a scratch...") and now I have a big dull spot. How can I fix it?"

From the pictures you posted in the other thread you have a lot of scratches that are not safe to take out. The rule of thumb is if you can catch your fingernail in the scratch, it's too deep to safely remove. Remember your clearcoat is only about .002" thick, and the rest of the paint maybe only .004". If you want to try touchup paint, fine, but I generally hate how touchup looks, I reserve it for if I'm down to metal (or sometimes primer). It's something you really need to do a number of times (a lot of times?) before you get proficient at it.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You absolutely can get great results and I'm sure you will. But if you knew how many threads I've read that started "I was wetsanding a scratch (or "I got some rubbing compound at Wal-Mart to fix a scratch...") and now I have a big dull spot. How can I fix it?"

From the pictures you posted in the other thread you have a lot of scratches that are not safe to take out. The rule of thumb is if you can catch your fingernail in the scratch, it's too deep to safely remove. Remember your clearcoat is only about .002" thick, and the rest of the paint maybe only .004". If you want to try touchup paint, fine, but I generally hate how touchup looks, I reserve it for if I'm down to metal (or sometimes primer). It's something you really need to do a number of times (a lot of times?) before you get proficient at it.
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The marks on the trunk lid are more of a scuff thats only in the clear (compound should fix these) and my finger nail catches the bad scratch so im saying its at least to the primer since I can't see any bare metal. Was thinking wetsanding would help level it to the surrounding areas and also smooth it out some. A lil touch up paint to fill in what's too deep to sand out since i'm positive some of it will sand out. Some compounding/polishing and call it a day and be happy its a lot better and no longer noticeable unless your on top of it and know its there ;)

I've seen wet sanding scratches put in and removed with ease in numerous videos. If they can do it, so can I as long as your using quality products and be extra careful not to sand too much. Gotta remember a lot of people lack common sense and attention to detail.
 
civicsi13 said:
Was thinking wetsanding would help level it to the surrounding areas and also smooth it out some.
Click to expand...

I can only say this so many times...DON'T DO THIS. Build it up with touch up paint and sand to level the touchup down to the level of the existing paint, then compound to blend it. The way you are suggesting is a recipe for disaster. If you do it that way I hope you have a good body shop who can match your NBP paint when you have to have that panel repainted.

On that note what grit and brand of papers are you planning on using for your sanding?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I can only say this so many times...DON'T DO THIS. Build it up with touch up paint and sand to level the touchup down to the level of the existing paint, then compound to blend it. The way you are suggesting is a recipe for disaster. If you do it that way I hope you have a good body shop who can match your NBP paint when you have to have that panel repainted.

On that note what grit and brand of papers are you planning on using for your sanding?
Click to expand...

Do this! Build up the paint in the scratch, then knock it down w/sanding & buffing. Don't sand, then fill, then sand again & buff. Also, give the touch up paint plenty of time to dry. Take your time and don't try to rush it or the end result will show.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I can only say this so many times...DON'T DO THIS. Build it up with touch up paint and sand to level the touchup down to the level of the existing paint, then compound to blend it. The way you are suggesting is a recipe for disaster. If you do it that way I hope you have a good body shop who can match your NBP paint when you have to have that panel repainted.

On that note what grit and brand of papers are you planning on using for your sanding?
Click to expand...

I was wanting to get out what I can before building up the paint and doing it the way you describe. Basically trying to avoid globing paint where I don't need it. Was planning on 2000 grit meguiars with there little pad to hold it. Might work my way to 3000 but feel a good compound and wool pad should remove these.

Worse comes to worse the area needs painted for %100 flawless correction. Scratch is bugging me enough thats its getting fixed the cheap way or expensive way if it comes to it. I've considered letting a pro detail the car but I want to learn so I dont always have to pay out. Rather invest in the equipment so I can do it again if need be.
 
fly07sti said:
Do this! Build up the paint in the scratch, then knock it down w/sanding & buffing. Don't sand, then fill, then sand again & buff. Also, give the touch up paint plenty of time to dry. Take your time and don't try to rush it or the end result will show.
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Thanks, If I do decide to tackle this ill be definitely taking my time.
 
Besides the scratch i'm still needing to decide what pad/polish combo i'm gonna use on the whole car. I know I should do a test spot and start with least aggressive combo for satisfactory results. Setec said my original choices were aggressive so ill probably just get a variety or pads and do a test. Mainly wanting something easy to work with that provides really good results, that's why i'm choosing the wolfgang products. Any recommendations for soft black pearl honda paint?
 
civicsi13 said:
I was wanting to get out what I can before building up the paint and doing it the way you describe. Basically trying to avoid globing paint where I don't need it. Was planning on 2000 grit meguiars with there little pad to hold it.
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You need to understand that there is nothing to "get out". Paint has been removed from the scratch, if you remove the surrounding paint to "level" the surface, you will simply be compromising the surrounding paint. Somebody (Mike Phillips, Todd Helme) had a cross-section to show this.

Detail Institute- What are paint defects

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s-water-spots-out-automotive-clear-coats.html
 
civicsi13 said:
Mainly wanting something easy to work with that provides really good results, that's why i'm choosing the wolfgang products. Any recommendations for soft black pearl honda paint?
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You're fine with the Wolfgang products. If you have the Uber Compound, the TSR, and the FG you should be able to tackle anything. Get some light cutting pads (usually orange) , some polishing pads (usually white) and a smaller number of cutting pads and "waxing" pads.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You need to understand that there is nothing to "get out". Paint has been removed from the scratch, if you remove the surrounding paint to "level" the surface, you will simply be compromising the surrounding paint. Somebody (Mike Phillips, Todd Helme) had a cross-section to show this.
Click to expand...

I agree, think we got that covered on the right way to go about this. Would 2000 be a good starting point, and I was under the impression wool pads were great for removing sanding marks?
 
civicsi13 said:
I agree, think we got that covered on the right way to go about this. Would 2000 be a good starting point, and I was under the impression wool pads were great for removing sanding marks?
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You really only want to use wool with a direct (rotary) or forced rotation (Flex 3401) machine. You're going to want to use a Langka or Dr. Colorchip method (maybe) or block sand the blobs down. You can start with 2K then go up to 2500 or 3000 to finish. You shouldn't need wool today to clean it up.

I am again going to advise against doing this until you have a little more experience polishing. Find a friend or family member who has a beater that needs some touchup paint, or get a junkyard panel and practice on it, you really don't want to be doing this for the first time on a car that someone cares about (unless you are going to do Dr. Colorchip and not sand).
 
Feel like I mike leave it to the pros for my car and take the advice to learn on something else first. How does one go about finding a really good professional detailer locally?
 
civicsi13 said:
Feel like I mike leave it to the pros for my car and take the advice to learn on something else first. How does one go about finding a really good professional detailer locally?
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Man you are bi-polar, lol! Just back off from the wetsanding and wool pads and you will be fine. Get your DA and pads and Wolfgang foursome, and polish with the TSR and an orange pad and see how it looks.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Man you are bi-polar, lol! Just back off from the wetsanding and wool pads and you will be fine. Get your DA and pads and Wolfgang foursome, and polish with the TSR and an orange pad and see how it looks.
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Well I would be much happier polishing the car myself, guess I can live with the scratch a little longer till I decide what to do with it. Maybe a little compound and polishing will make it to where I can live with it. Atleast I can get the rest of the car looking good without screwing that up I hope lol :buffing:
 
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