Help me protect my new car

[TheSeeker]

I have detailed my cars since the mid 80's, but for the past 5 or so years I've been out of the loop and I'm overwhelmed with the different types of products and brands. In a month I'll be taking delivery of a new silver SUV and I would appreciate if someone could tell me if the products I have are compatible with each other.
This car will be garage kept and driven mostly on weekends on long trips. Not a daily driver. My goal is to protect the paint from acid rain/water spots and bird droppings and bug splatter with the products I have on hand.

Here is my sequence for the first detail of the new car:

(1) DP Foam Extreme with soap gun
(2) two bucket wash with DP Car Shampoo
(3) Is Iron Fall Out remover necessary on a brand new car that has been factory wrapped in a while protective film during shipping? If so, which brand?
(4) Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay kit
(5) I have Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion - should I use it at this stage?
(6) Black Fire One-Step with a white Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(7) Black Fire BF-300 sealant with black Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(8) Black Fire SiO2 spray sealant or Collinite 476/Collinite 845 (by hand)? (If I understand correctly, you can't put a SiO2 on a wax)

I appreciate any advice/suggestions.

 

[dlc95]

I've seen a lot of new cars "bleed" when I sprayed CarPro IronX on them.

 

[Bosko]

I've seen a lot of new cars "bleed" when I sprayed CarPro IronX on them.

The Ol..."Rail dust"...from train car transport.

My 2011 "White" Silverado... and many GM cars from that year had it BAD!
the truck looked like it had freckles....

 

[Eldorado2k]

If it was me I’d start by doing a test panel [hood] with the iron remover on a cool vehicle in the shade before anything. If it turns purple then proceed to spray the rest of the SUV, if it doesn’t save it and start your normal rinse/bucket wash.

After you wash & dry do a baggie test on the paint in order to see if it actually needs to be clayed. If it’s completely smooth then that’s great, at least you know they did a good job with that protective film they told you about.

Assuming it passes both tests so far, the last thing to do is inspect for swirls. If they did a proper job all the way through and it’s swirl free, then you can go straight to your choice of protection and simply maintain your brand new vehicle.

It’s not unheard of. I’ve seen brand new vehicles delivered in “perfect” shape. Please update us in this thread how your vehicle turns out.

 

[crg001]

(1) DP Foam Extreme with soap gun
(2) two bucket wash with DP Car Shampoo
(3) Is Iron Fall Out remover necessary on a brand new car that has been factory wrapped in a while protective film during shipping? If so, which brand?
(4) Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay kit
(5) I have Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion - should I use it at this stage?
(6) Black Fire One-Step with a white Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(7) Black Fire BF-300 sealant with black Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(8) Black Fire SiO2 spray sealant or Collinite 476/Collinite 845 (by hand)? (If I understand correctly, you can't put a SiO2 on a wax)

I appreciate any advice/suggestions.

Iron fall out remover is not 100% necessary, but I would say that it would still be a good thing to use in the initial prep. There are contaminants that can be pretty stubborn, and with a new vehicle the brakes will throw out a lot of dust during the break-in period that will attach itself to the paint. I like Meguiar's D1801 but it is only available in gallons. Blackfire Iron Remover is a close second in cleaning ability, as well as the gold standard in CarPro Iron-X. These also make for great wheel cleaners for your maintenance washes later on.

The paint cleansing lotion is not necessary if you will be polishing with a different product. They will do roughly the same thing.

Do you already have the Blackfire products? Blackfire One Step is a very good AIO and I still enjoy using it to this day. I would top it with their new hybrid liquid wax instead of the paint sealant if you haven't already purchased, though. Alternatively the SiO2 spray sealant works well too, but I would only pick one! The SiO2 paint sealant does work well with the One Step so no worries about synergy there. Keeping it in the family is a good way to ensure that things will work. I will say that the old way of doing lots of layers of things isn't as effective with modern products! Typically all you will need is one or two, and a nice light detail spray or waterless wash to maintain the gloss.

 

[TheSeeker]

Iron fall out remover is not 100% necessary, but I would say that it would still be a good thing to use in the initial prep. There are contaminants that can be pretty stubborn, and with a new vehicle the brakes will throw out a lot of dust during the break-in period that will attach itself to the paint. I like Meguiar's D1801 but it is only available in gallons. Blackfire Iron Remover is a close second in cleaning ability, as well as the gold standard in CarPro Iron-X. These also make for great wheel cleaners for your maintenance washes later on.

The paint cleansing lotion is not necessary if you will be polishing with a different product. They will do roughly the same thing.

Do you already have the Blackfire products? Blackfire One Step is a very good AIO and I still enjoy using it to this day. I would top it with their new hybrid liquid wax instead of the paint sealant if you haven't already purchased, though. Alternatively the SiO2 spray sealant works well too, but I would only pick one! The SiO2 paint sealant does work well with the One Step so no worries about synergy there. Keeping it in the family is a good way to ensure that things will work. I will say that the old way of doing lots of layers of things isn't as effective with modern products! Typically all you will need is one or two, and a nice light detail spray or waterless wash to maintain the gloss.

Yes, I already have the Blackfire Products. So you suggest I either use the BF-300 (sealant) with (a) the SiO2 spray (they are synergy compatible), or (b) the Blackfire new hybrid liquid wax? On my wife's (garage kept) 2021 white 330i, I polished with BF One-Step, sealed with BF-300 sealant, and top with BF SiO2 sealant spray and I feel the protection should be better. I think my 2012 Genesis sedan with BF One-Step topped with Collinite 476 is better. I'm willing to give the BF new bybird liquid wax a try.

 

[crg001]

Yes, I already have the Blackfire Products. So you suggest I either use the BF-300 (sealant) with (a) the SiO2 spray (they are synergy compatible), or (b) the Blackfire new hybrid liquid wax? On my wife's (garage kept) 2021 white 330i, I polished with BF One-Step, sealed with BF-300 sealant, and top with BF SiO2 sealant spray and I feel the protection should be better. I think my 2012 Genesis sedan with BF One-Step topped with Collinite 476 is better. I'm willing to give the BF new bybird liquid wax a try.

The thing I would say about Blackfire products is that they are more geared to be user friendly and provide maximum shine and gloss, at the expense of durability (their full blown ceramic coatings excluded). If you have had a good experience with One Step topped with 476, I don't see a reason to really deviate much, especially if you already have the products in hand. It's easy to get carried away with trying new products! :laughing: Collinite 476 is a durability champ and if that's what you are looking for, really no wax is going to be better over the top of BF One Step. The alternatives being using a true polish without protection and using some of the newer ceramic products like Griot's 3 in 1 or Gyeon Can Coat, as these won't really work as well over an existing sealant.

There's a million billion combination of products out there and it can be hard to not just buy everything!

 

[psnt1ol]

I have detailed my cars since the mid 80's, but for the past 5 or so years I've been out of the loop and I'm overwhelmed with the different types of products and brands. In a month I'll be taking delivery of a new silver SUV and I would appreciate if someone could tell me if the products I have are compatible with each other.
This car will be garage kept and driven mostly on weekends on long trips. Not a daily driver. My goal is to protect the paint from acid rain/water spots and bird droppings and bug splatter with the products I have on hand.

Here is my sequence for the first detail of the new car:

(1) DP Foam Extreme with soap gun
(2) two bucket wash with DP Car Shampoo
(3) Is Iron Fall Out remover necessary on a brand new car that has been factory wrapped in a while protective film during shipping? If so, which brand?
(4) Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay kit
(5) I have Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion - should I use it at this stage?
(6) Black Fire One-Step with a white Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(7) Black Fire BF-300 sealant with black Lake Country CCS pad and Porter Cable orbital buffer
(8) Black Fire SiO2 spray sealant or Collinite 476/Collinite 845 (by hand)? (If I understand correctly, you can't put a SiO2 on a wax)

I appreciate any advice/suggestions.

You might not need an iron remover but if you are to decon and clay... why not take the extra step. The process doesnt take that much longer to do plus it would make the claying process easier. I dont use the traditional clay that much anymore (mostly clay mitts and towels) but I remembered doing an iron remover prior to claying resulted in less contaminants picked up by the clay where as claying alone yielded a lot more gunk on the clay bar.

Any one step products be it BF one step or 3D Speed... they are generally jack of all trade while expert at none. They all are geared toward that middle ground. I love AIO for what it does. For those of us looking for decent result with the least amount of time spent.... it is the golden ticket.