Help: Paint Correction, Prep, Coating on '16 Sonata

[DetailingTooMuchWork]

My initial project is using the following products & steps:

1. Wash & Dry
2. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Plus
3. Meguiars M105/205 Porter Cable 7424XP Ultra Polish Kit
4. GTechniq Panel Wipe Coating Prep
5. GTechniq Crystal Serum Light Qty: x2 (I plan to created 2 solid coats 3 if possible. Please advice the best way to proceed with this)
6. GTechniq C2v3 Liquid Crystal (Please advise when or how long to wait for #5 to dry before applying this product as a final step)
(I was interested in using M101 instead of M105 please advise.)

Below is a diagram of my vehicle where the red dots represent how many applicator pads & microfiber cloths I'l be using in each section.

View attachment 59204

As it appears above I plan to use at least 20 x Applicator Pads & 20 x Microfiber Cloths (Removal/Buffing). I know it sounds ridiculous but after reading the following article:

https://glossboss.de/en/gtechniq-crystal-serum-test-application/

From my understanding is that this specific coating works in a way that dries up rapidly fast and requires buffing/removal immediately after application which does not leave any room for error. If that is the case then product will also harden/crystallize on the applicator pad/microfiber cloth rendering them useless after 1 small or medium panel. Hence, I plan to use at least 2 applicator pads/microfiber for the larger panels such as the hood & roof while each door/fender gets 1, disposed thereafter. Please correct this if I'm wrong.

The reason I chose the GTechniq is because of their claimed longetivity or 3-5 years for the Crystal Serum Light. I was also interested in several other products such as Cquartz, Pinnacle, Wolfgang Uber etc. Please advice if a different product is better suited for my project. Thank you in advance.

I've been told by someone at a detail store that using the M105 will burn through my factory paint though I think that is over exaggeration since I don't plan to apply too much pressure/product. I just want to level the surface and reduce the orange peel without actually wet sanding. It is hard to see the scratches/swirls but here is a shot of the vehicle I will be working on:
View attachment 59205

 

[RMarkJr]

My initial project is using the following products & steps:

1. Wash & Dry
2. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Plus
3. Meguiars M105/205 Porter Cable 7424XP Ultra Polish Kit
4. GTechniq Panel Wipe Coating Prep
5. GTechniq Crystal Serum Light Qty: x2 (I plan to created 2 solid coats 3 if possible. Please advice the best way to proceed with this)
6. GTechniq C2v3 Liquid Crystal (Please advise when or how long to wait for #5 to dry before applying this product as a final step)
(I was interested in using M101 instead of M105 please advise.)

Below is a diagram of my vehicle where the red dots represent how many applicator pads & microfiber cloths I'l be using in each section.

View attachment 59204

As it appears above I plan to use at least 20 x Applicator Pads & 20 x Microfiber Cloths (Removal/Buffing). I know it sounds ridiculous but after reading the following article:

https://glossboss.de/en/gtechniq-crystal-serum-test-application/

From my understanding is that this specific coating works in a way that dries up rapidly fast and requires buffing/removal immediately after application which does not leave any room for error. If that is the case then product will also harden/crystallize on the applicator pad/microfiber cloth rendering them useless after 1 small or medium panel. Hence, I plan to use at least 2 applicator pads/microfiber for the larger panels such as the hood & roof while each door/fender gets 1, disposed thereafter. Please correct this if I'm wrong.

The reason I chose the GTechniq is because of their claimed longetivity or 3-5 years for the Crystal Serum Light. I was also interested in several other products such as Cquartz, Pinnacle, Wolfgang Uber etc. Please advice if a different product is better suited for my project. Thank you in advance.

I've been told by someone at a detail store that using the M105 will burn through my factory paint though I think that is over exaggeration since I don't plan to apply too much pressure/product. I just want to level the surface and reduce the orange peel without actually wet sanding. It is hard to see the scratches/swirls but here is a shot of the vehicle I will be working on:
View attachment 59205

gtechniq I have heard is really good stuff. I am actually going to pick some up .. put it on my car and then offer it to customers. The thing about polishing is that you are not going to level the paint at all. The pads conform to the grooves of the orange peel and therefore will not level it. There are special pads for that .. however it is not recommended to remove orange peel on factory painted cars. Thats because they only put enough clear to coat the car and it is extremely thin.

 

[The Guz]

You may want to consider adding an iron remover product as part of your wash process to chemically decontaminate as well.

One coat of CSL is all you need.

I would wait 12-24 hours before topping it with C2v3. Or 1 hour minimum if you wish to apply right away. Possibly even after the first wash as your maintenance product.

Found this video on application that may help.

 

[TTQ B4U]

as already noted, I personally wouldn't remove any clear to enhance the appearance and lesson orange peel. I see and hear a lot of BMW guys doing it as they tend to / seem to have issues but not me, no way. Clear is already thin enough IMO. If you do, M105 on a wool pad "may" help, but it would be easier to simply use the 3M Kit sold here on AG and wet-sand it by hand. I would cringe doing it though and encourage you not to.

just correct and coat your car and enjoy the shine. Our now 10+ year old Entourage doesn't have perfect paint but the orange peel is far far less than I've seen on other cars. Barely noticeable really unless you stand it up next to say my car or a Tesla, which I've seen has great paint.