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waparson

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Hi everyone,
Always loved detailing cars, just never got too in depth as some do. But now I got a new to me truck that I want to get the paint right on it and take care of it from here on out.

Paint is decent, has water spots, spider webs/swirl marks pretty bad. I like pinnacle products and cant decide what level swirl remove I'd need. I can get pictures if that would help. I couldn't find any pictures corresponding to what level swirl remover to use.

I was thinking clay bar followed by swirl remover #3, then the #1, finishing polish/glaze, and top it off with pinnacle liquid.

Also interested in thoughts on the pinnacle window water spot remover, seems to have good reviews anyone have any comments? Does the window sealer work well also?



Also, I have an older 99 Accord that has the common clearcoat coming off the hood. Everywhere else the car shines great. Few months ago I tried some regular mequiars cleaner wax with my hand on about a 4" spot. Now it took about 10min of hard pressure and then a wax after. But it shines great and is still pretty decent. I was thinking of using the pinnacle swirl remover/compound #4 on it, does anyone think this will help?

This is my list so far...

Porter Cable 7424XP
Couple of orange, white, and blue Pads??
XMT Swirl Remover #1-#4
XMT Gel Shampoo
XMT Finishing Glaze
XMT Instant Detailer
XMT Clay Bar
Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax
Pinnacle Glass Water Spot Remover


I've used products like this before years ago, so I'm not a complete newbie but not advanced either.

Thanks for your time and help!
 
The only change I would make would be to remove the glaze.

You already have the full arsenal of polishes and a choice of LSP. The XMT glaze is more of an all-in-one type product which has light polishes and a wax. Based on your chosen product list, you already have those areas covered.

After reading the XMT Finishing Glaze description, I now wonder what the difference is between it and XMT 360.
 
What size pads do you have ?
I like Lake Country 5 1/2 " flat pads.
 
I had noticed that as well, about it having a wax in it.

So after the swirl remover #1 which seems like a polish as well, think I should go straight to the wax/sealant?

I don't mind the extra work/time. Just want to do it the best I can the first time.
 
FASTFRED said:
What size pads do you have ?
I like Lake Country 5 1/2 " flat pads.
Click to expand...


I'll probably use the 6 1/2" CCS pads. Mostly because it's a fairly large truck.

Probably use some 4" on tighter spots and windows.
 
waparson said:
I had noticed that as well, about it having a wax in it.

So after the swirl remover #1 which seems like a polish as well, think I should go straight to the wax/sealant?

I don't mind the extra work/time. Just want to do it the best I can the first time.
Click to expand...

Looking at the description and pad recommendation on the product page, I'd say #1 is the last polishing step and then you move on to waxing afterwards.

From the product page:
XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover has no fillers so you can see the real results of your work immediately. Follow up with Pinnacle Signature Series II or your favorite Pinnacle wax.
Click to expand...

Depending on the condition of your truck, you may not need to use all four polishes either. However it is good to have options so you can adapt as needed.
 
You might want to consider the Griots DA polisher--has allot more torque than the PC (still better off using a 5" backing plate and 5.5"
pads)--and it has a lifetime warranty. You will really appreciate the extra power once you get into this-


When it comes to pads don't try to do the whole truck with one or two pads per step--it's a recipe for failure and melting pads. Here's an article by Mike regarding how many pads you need----http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/88109-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html

Also, here's a list of articles and videos -- do some reading and watch the videos regarding machine polishing--it will help avoid problems once you get started http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23722-car-detailing-articles-mike-phillips.html
 
Thanks for that Chart!

And the article for how many pads you need is a definite plus. Guess I never thought of that. But will definitely follow it.

Thanks for the help so far.
 
ski2 said:
You might want to consider the Griots DA polisher--has allot more torque than the PC (still better off using a 5" backing plate and 5.5"
pads)--and it has a lifetime warranty. You will really appreciate the extra power once you get into this-


When it comes to pads don't try to do the whole truck with one or two pads per step--it's a recipe for failure and melting pads. Here's an article by Mike regarding how many pads you need----http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html

Also, here's a list of articles and videos -- do some reading and watch the videos regarding machine polishing--it will help avoid problems once you get started http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...722-car-detailing-articles-mike-phillips.html
Click to expand...


Just curious on the 5.5" pads vs 6.5" on the 5" backing plate?
 
Seems the 5.5" helps to keep the polisher from bogging down some? I like that concept.

I seem to be set on everything except the type of Pad. CCS or Flat?

Also, I think I'll go with the griots garage polisher as well. But get the 5.5" backing plate with it.
 
Personally I think flat pads correct better. I want all of my pad touching the paint!

-note 4 powered by T-Mobile
 
waparson said:
Just curious on the 5.5" pads vs 6.5" on the 5" backing plate?
Click to expand...

You shouldn't use 6.5" pads on a 5" backing plate as there is too much overhang. Also, the 5.5" pads are less expensive.

I totally agree with others comments prefering FLAT pads.

You might want to take a look at the Buff & Shine pads here on AG. Excellent pads, very durable and they have a recessed Velcro that offers an added margin of safety when polishing near protruding objects like mirrors etc.
 
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