Help Replacing Pads

AustrianOak82

AustrianOak82

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Apparently, I have had very bad luck with my pad choices so far. Pretty frustrated at this point, so looking for some information. I have used the LC 5.5 pads on my GG6 and never really cared for them because I couldn't use them for more than a minute before they were completely collapsing. The 3" pads from LC were even worse and are separating from the foam after limited use. The black pads from LC have worn completely unevenly for some reason, also with limited use. As you can see in the picture, one has the holes and on the other one they are almost completely gone. No, I don't use them at high speeds. The highest speed I will go is 3 when finishing.

A couple of weeks ago I picked up some Meguiar's 5" and 3" MF cutting pads. The 2nd time I used the 5" pads, the MF started separating from the foam and was flapping all around. I used the 3" pad just once on a bumper cover last night and it cracked and began to separate. I attached some pictures for reference.

I need to swap all of my pads and start over. I am picking up a Flex PE8 Kompakt in the near future so I think my pad choices are limited there, but I need some 5.5" pads for my GG. I liked the MF a lot, I could cut quicker and sometimes didn't even have to do a separate polish, I could top with 151 so looking for some MF cutting pads and probably foam polishing and finishing pads.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Any idea what happened here? I would attached pictures but the uploads fail every time. Guessing they are to big or something.
 
That is wild that they getting destroyed so fast.

Which type of LC pad are you using? They Usually collapse from getting to hot.

Are you making your passes too slow or maybe your GG6 has some issues creating extra friction causing he backing plate to get to hot.
 
Mantilgh said:
That is wild that they getting destroyed so fast.

Which type of LC pad are you using? They Usually collapse from getting to hot.

Are you making your passes too slow or maybe your GG6 has some issues creating extra friction causing he backing plate to get to hot.
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I had posted a thread a little while back on that issue. I just think foam isn't for me. I just threw that info into my complaining today for s&g.
 
You might want to take a look at Buff & Shine foam and MF pads. They are very durable and the Velcro doesn't separate from the foam or MF. I've been using them for 4 years now on my GG6 and now with my G15 and have had no problems. The yellow, orange and red foam are all Euro foam which seems to be the most durable of the line.
 
i had this issue when i started using the new version of the meguiars MF cutting discs. it had a lot to do with the downward pressure i was applying. i changed my technique and they started lasting a lot longer.
 
ski2 said:
You might want to take a look at Buff & Shine foam and MF pads. They are very durable and the Velcro doesn't separate from the foam or MF. I've been using them for 4 years now on my GG6 and now with my G15 and have had no problems. The yellow, orange and red foam are all Euro foam which seems to be the most durable of the line.
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Nice, I will check them out.

Matt@landrover said:
i had this issue when i started using the new version of the meguiars MF cutting discs. it had a lot to do with the downward pressure i was applying. i changed my technique and they started lasting a lot longer.
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I car that I used these on was trashed, so I had to put some decent pressure on the pad when I was compounding. Even though it was more pressure than normal, it was the same pressure that I would normally put on an orange foam pad. If that is the reason it tore, that's disappointing. They should be able to handle more than that, especially two uses!
 
Seems strange that your having problems like that. I dont use Lake Country, but ive never had problems with Buff & Shine
 
If you're not using Meguiar's "micro hook" backing plate, or something similar, this could be why the Megs pads are failing.

Personally I've used Buff and Shine made pads since 2013. They're getting worn now, but still work great. Specifically the green for cutting, and blue for polishing. They're very tough, we'll made, and resilient. I chose the open cell pads for their inherent cutting ability, and durability. They're softer, but still cut.
 
dlc95 said:
If you're not using Meguiar's "micro hook" backing plate, or something similar, this could be why the Megs pads are failing.
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:iagree: Very possible!

There is/was an EXCELLENT write-up over at MOL the Mike Stoops wrote that really shows and explains this.

Just curious, how many 'miles' are on the black LC pad you pictured?

Bill
 
I would say in have used them maybe 10 times or so. Most of the cars I do I use a combo wax, so I use a green pad.
 
@AustrianOak: any update here? This does seem curious. Different brands and media shouldn't be deteriorating so rapidly, so I'd suspect it isn't a matter of defective pads/discs. IMO it either boils down to technique (including machine speed, weight and arm speed as well as amount of product) or an issue with the GG6 (bad backing plate as suggested, worn bearing, grease breakdown, who knows?) getting too hot.

I had one red Meg's cutting disc delaminate after about two years of moderate use, after I loaned it with a bunch of other stuff to a friend. I later learned (by seeing it for myself!) that he had been using way too much product and running the DA on maximum speed...
 
AustrianOak82 said:
I would say in have used them maybe 10 times or so. Most of the cars I do I use a combo wax, so I use a green pad.
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Only ten vehicles? Something is going on that ain't right.

I have black LC-CCS pads (going on 50+ vehicles)) that are a bit discolored (from cleaning etc) and the faces are worn some, but nothing like you are showing

I don't know what to say...maybe check and refine your process?

Keep us apprised of what happens.

Bill
 
It's not the pads

It's your technique


Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail

Too much pressure

Too much liquid

Too much machine speed

Using too few pads during a session

Etc.
 
AGOatemywallet said:
It's not the pads



It's your technique





Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail



Too much pressure



Too much liquid



Too much machine speed



Using too few pads during a session



Etc.
Click to expand...


I disagree - most pad failure is related to technique. But things you mentioned like how much polish , pressure, and machine speed you use I would describe as technique.

The other thing that makes pads fail is how you clean them. Putting pads in a washing machine is not great.

I've let Rupes and BnS pads sit in a bucket with pad cleaner for months, because I was too lazy to clean them - and they still work fine. LC pads - not so much. I've used older Megs pads that delaminated as well. You only get one chance with me.

I'd highly recommend Rupes or BnS pads. I believe they are just better than some others.
 
Many great suggestions above. My question is the backing plate the correct size for the pad? My experience is to much product will first cause the center of the pad to cupped. If I continue without cleaning the pad and keep pouring produt onto the pad it will separate.

Yes manufactures had a learning curve, but have it figured out now. One panel stop and clean the pads and then a few pea sized dot of product.

There is no need to run the machine wide open as it builds heat quickly and all things repeat.
 
AGOatemywallet said:
It's not the pads

It's your technique


Lots of things can contribute to overheating pads, causing them to collapse and/or the Velcro to fail

Too much pressure

Too much liquid

Too much machine speed

Using too few pads during a session

Etc.
Click to expand...

With all due respect, It's not my technique. I only use the black pads for wax/sealant application, so I run my GG 6" at speed 3 and apply zero pressure. When using the orange or pink pads for paint correction, I typically run at a 4 or 4.5. I very rarely use 5 or 6 and if I do, it's to remove a single scratch. I usually use my 3" pads for this. I am not applying too much pressure, I have never run the machine where it even came close to bogging down. Usually light to moderate pressure. I typically use 4-5 pads per vehicle and I clean the pad after each panel. I put a small jesus fish line of polish on the pad for each smaller panel and areas like the hood are divided into halves or fourths.

Detail-Impressions said:
Many great suggestions above. My question is the backing plate the correct size for the pad? My experience is to much product will first cause the center of the pad to cupped. If I continue without cleaning the pad and keep pouring produt onto the pad it will separate.

Yes manufactures had a learning curve, but have it figured out now. One panel stop and clean the pads and then a few pea sized dot of product.

There is no need to run the machine wide open as it builds heat quickly and all things repeat.
Click to expand...

I use a 5 inch backing plate with 5.5 inch pads. I usually run at speed 4 or 4.5 for correction (see above reply).
 
AustrianOak82 said:
Here are the foam pads and one of the MF.
Click to expand...

My grey ccs "flattened" out too. So did two of my orange, and two green ones. I don't think it's surface wear, but de-pressurization of the ccs dimple.

The reason for collapsing the foam cells as opposed to cutting grooves (like the hex faced pads) - my theory : The ccs treatment is pressed, or "debossed" into the foam, rather than cut into the foam. The idea is to collapse the cell walls of the foam in the dimples, as to slow the rate of polish/wax absorbance into depths of the pad. Theoretically releasing the liquid back onto the working surface as the machining process cycles through it's phase.

I don't believe it's beyond the realm of possibility that the foam could "bounce back" to it's original form, where it naturally wants to be.

I don't necessarily see this as a negative either. Especially with waxing pads, as they not subject to the intense speeds of compounding and polishing, where the dimples aide in heat reduction, and reduces surface tension, allowing for a smoother buffing experience.
 
Glad someone mentioned the length of hooks as a possibility

I used a 3" Rotary BP with an adapter on a DA with DA pads. The combo self-destructed the pads and the BP
 
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