Help: Rotary Buffer Use

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milabfocker

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I really want to learn how to use rotary buffers and am looking at buying one. My friend has a beater vehicle and has agreed to let me learn on it. I know quite a few of you use rotary buffers and was wanting some input surrounding their use. Are they difficult to operate? Are the results significantly better in comparison to those derived from DA machines? Are polishing times cut in half? How long does it normally take to become proficient with them? I'm particularly worried about burning the paint on the vehicles countours, such as on corners; what can be done to prevent this? Any tips, techniques, opinions, etc would be greatly appreciated.
 
Rotary common mistakes and usage tips -
  • Nearly every rotary on the market today uses a 5/8 - inch / 11pi arbour spindle for backing plates. I would recommend getting a hook and loop (Velcro™) backing plate Clean your pads before you use them, or start out with a new pad; use a soft toothbrush for foam, and a spur for wool. As a general rule, the more aggressive the polish, the more often you'll need to clean out your pads. I clean out my pad after every panel when compounding.

  • Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. When a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring. Conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring; this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it becomes very fine and will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it

  • Ensure a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad and the surface. Swirls are usually caused by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with distilled water (un-primed pads can cause marring) do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad.

  • Edge (spin off) – a light sensitive approach is essential, using only the weight of the machine, on vertical panels just enough pressure to maintain contact with the surface (without applied pressure) tilt the contact edge of the pad a few degrees so that only the leading edge of the pad is in contact with the paint surface. A smaller pad surface contact area will increase friction heat so adjust machine speed accordingly

  • Knowing when a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has gone clear and is very easy to wipe off. Holograms or micro marring are again imparted due to polish that hasn’t been properly broken down or too high speeds. Following the advice above or below should cure these.

  • ‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD) This can also be caused by a bogged down pad – clean / spur / replace pads often.

  • For the neophyte user I would suggest starting out by using a smaller pad, 6.5 – inch I have even found 4- inch pads to be very useful for polishing small tight spaces and smaller panels.

  • High RPM i.e. >1700 will cause high surface temperatures (should be limited to 1000F / 300 C)

  • 1150F / 450 C < will damage clear coat to the point were it requires repainting.

  • The HS Rotary requires no more pressure than that required to ‘hold’ it on the paint surface

  • Always tape pinstripes; It doesn't take much to wipe them right off the paint, or thin them out

  • Inspect your work under full sun (or use a 3M Sun Gun®) Holograms, fine marring hooks, etc. are very difficult to see under man made light. There's nothing more frustrating than having to strip off your LSP and re-do.

  • Remove all polish residue and oils before applying your LSP. This is a general rule of thumb for best results across all product lines, and you will notice an overall improvement in the clarity, gloss, and overall 'look' of your finish.

  • If you're new to rotary polishing start off by only using finishing pads and Do Not exceed
1500 RPM < faster is not better and it may cause you problems. Let the rotary do the work, you'll be surprised at what you can correct with a finishing pad and a mildly abrasive polish.

  • When you shut down the machine never let the pad stop on the surface. Bring the machine to the closest edge of the panel and slowly let it roll off with an angle facing inward to the panel, this will help prevent marring.

  • One of the biggest problems when using a rotary is product sling, however when using highly lubricated polishes splatter its a sign that you’ve used too much polish or you have turned the speed up to too fast, too soon. No matter how much you try and avoid it you’re still going to see it. When polishing cover areas you don’t want covered in product and mask off trim with blue painter’s tape if necessary and cover windshields or other vehicle parts with towels. Be careful around mouldings, antennas (aerial’s to us Brits ) and other trim pieces
 
Start off on a slow speed and do not use much pressure. This way you can start to judge your work. Just continue to go up in speed and a little pressure. I would go around and tape the edges to avoid burning them. Also find a car that you can actually see what it takes to burn the paint. Depending on the type of pad, foam or wool, you will need to see what it will take you as far as your technique goes to see how long it takes to burn the paint. Make sure you go with the curves in the body and also when you get to an edge ease up on the pressure and start bring the pad of the paint in a gradual movement. If I think of anything else I will add. Might have to go run the buffer over the hood to add to this. If you have any other question I will be more than happy to answer. All I use is a rotary.
 
:goodpost:'s from everyone. Thank you guys for sharing. Very educational.
 
Use a smaller pad so you can control it easier. Handling a rotary is nothing like handling a PC or UDM. I like to use 5.5" pads.
 
I do okay with the rotory. That's all I ever knew about until I joined AG and you guys and gals started talking about a PC! DUH! Now I just purchased a FLEX. Probably won't get here until after Christmas! I'll still use my rotory! I'm use to it!
 
I appreciate all of the helpful input provided. I initially expected a number of persons to try and steer me away from stepping up to the rotary. All of the input has been extremely helpful and has given me enough confidence to give the rotary a try; I ordered a Makita today. I'm sure I will have additional questions once it arrives and will probably resort to your guys expertise in the future. If anyone else has any additional information, please continue posting it on this thread. I will continue referring to this until and when the buffer arrives.
 
I just ordered the Makita 9227 as well. I have been practicing on several beater cars and am looking forward to using it when I get more confidence on some clients cars. It will certainly make details faster and take the finish to a different level.
 
9227 is my weapon of choice.

Keep the pad absolutely flat on the paint at all times, don't tilt it
Use 4 inch pads on funny angled surfaces, especially rear bumpers
You don't want the pad to be big enough to do the panel but not burn the bottom of doors or top of bumpers

Therefore 5.5 inch pads are better than 6.5 to 8 inch on some
Judge every panel individually, don't look at a few panels and say "right, this will fix it"
Each panel has been treated differently to another, so refinish each panel completely before doing the next.

Takes longer but results are better. I hate going around a car three to five times
 
Be careful with 4" pad on the rotary. Also be careful on plastic panels, bumpers, side skirts, etc. Maybe stick with the PC on plastic panels until you get more comfortable with the rotary. I go through a hell of a lot more tape now that Im using a rotary compared to when I was using the PC.
 
Again, I thank everyone for continuing to provide their input. D & D, I've heard plastic has a tendency to shrivel under the heat of rotary buffers; however, does this happen very quickly or are there any warning signs? Additionally, is there any difference between buffing on aluminum in comparison to regular metal? The hood on my Cadillac is very light; I believe it is aluminum; atleast that is what my father in law thought.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Also, why do you recommend exercising more caution when using a 4" pad in contrast to a 5.5" or 6.5" pad?
 
milabfocker said:
Again, I thank everyone for continuing to provide their input. D & D, I've heard plastic has a tendency to shrivel under the heat of rotary buffers; however, does this happen very quickly or are there any warning signs? Additionally, is there any difference between buffing on aluminum in comparison to regular metal? The hood on my Cadillac is very light; I believe it is aluminum; atleast that is what my father in law thought.

Thanks,
Brandon
Click to expand...

Not really any warning signs, it just happens. Itll happen quickly if you are using pressure and at a high speed. And by high I mean it can happen at as little as 1100. So if you want to use it on bumpers, then keep it at 1100 max and dont use anything but the weight of the machine. The machine will be vertical, so you'll have to guess. If you have a plastic bumper you can practice on, then go ahead and burn it so you can see what its like. Also be careful on edges and convex surfaces.

As far as different surfaces, composite seems more prone to holograms and buffer marks compared to steel. But you can remove those fine with a finishing pad/ polish.

Its easier to burn paint with a small 4" pad.
 
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Dan, very good point made about plastic bumpers. Go over them very lightly, they polish out fast.
 
there is alot of very good advice here and i agree with alot of it. as for the speed to run the rotary at use the range the polish company has recommended. for example: 3M perfect-it 3000 extra cut compound, swirl mark remover, and ultrafina se recommended speed is 1400-2000rpm. OPTIMUM line recommends 1000-1400rpm. which means it is safe to use the higher rpms. so if you wanted to go from 100rpm's to 1200rpms and you accidently goto 1400rpm's dont worry. the higher rpm's will get the job done faster with out drying the polish out to fast or generating to much heat on panel. . the company's put enough lubrication in the polishes and compounds to be worked at these speeds. visit a local body shop and ask them for junked panels to practice on. that way you can get a feel for the rotary and play with the speed and get comfortable. IMHO on a couple of those panels lay into real heavy and burn through the paint. tha way you will know what it looks like and how much/little it will take to burn paint.
 
D&D Auto Detailing said:
...Its easier to burn paint with a small 4" pad.
Click to expand...

A foam pad produces friction-heat (very necessary to breakdown diminishing abrasives)

A 4-inch foam pad due to its relatively small area increases ‘spot’ friction-heat, which will start to melt and possibly burn plastic trim due to its relativly low melting point temperature
 
I used my rotary yesterday with some techniques that gtaindetaling aka Kevin gave me. He has been using the rotary for over 12 years now and never tapes up anything or gets any dusting. I couldn't believe the finish I achieved in such a short amount of time.
Expect a full write up.
 
If you're new at the rotary and you dont tape then you're just asking for trouble.
 
D&D Auto Detailing said:
If you're new at the rotary and you dont tape then you're just asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

Like I said in my post.......he has 12 years EXPERIENCE and does not TAPE.

Never said that a newbie to the rotary should.

I highly recommend getting some test panels and just using some QD on the pads first to just get a feel for this tool. I know it was hard to get the motions down at first after using the PC for so long.
 
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