Help: Rotary Buffer Use

I just read every post on this thread and man oh man I'm so glad the OP brought this topic up. This thread is full of great information. As alot of you guys know I just picked up a Flex PE-14 and I've had mixed emotions on using it. I still don't have pads, so I still haven't used it. I've been doing alot of research ever since I purchased the machine and as soon as I read something about burning paint I get nervous to even try it. But I'm sure with alot of patience, practice, and research I'll be fine. I really appreciate everyone's advice and suggestions-from old posts to new.
 
Re: Help: Rotary Buffer Use / Should Only Distilled Water Be Spritzed On Pad?

TOGWT said:
  • Ensure a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad and the surface. Swirls are usually caused by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove spritz the pad with distilled water...
Click to expand...
Does added water really have to be distilled?

If so, what's the reasoning behind that?
 
Re: Help: Rotary Buffer Use / Should Only Distilled Water Be Spritzed On Pad?

TomBrooklyn said:
Does added water really have to be distilled?

If so, what's the reasoning behind that?
Click to expand...

First, I highly doubt that there would be any discernible difference between using a spritz of tap water vs a spritz of distilled. I can't imagine that the microscopic contaminants and minerals in tap water would have any negative effect in this instance.

Second, that was posted over 10 years ago which the pads and compounds have dramatically improved and there is FAR more lubrication in cutting compounds since that advice was posted. That said, the guy is seriously knowledgeable on the polishing process.
 
Re: Help: Rotary Buffer Use / Should Only Distilled Water Be Spritzed On Pad?

alko said:
I just read every post on this thread and man oh man I'm so glad the OP brought this topic up. This thread is full of great information. As alot of you guys know I just picked up a Flex PE-14 and I've had mixed emotions on using it. I still don't have pads, so I still haven't used it. I've been doing alot of research ever since I purchased the machine and as soon as I read something about burning paint I get nervous to even try it. But I'm sure with alot of patience, practice, and research I'll be fine. I really appreciate everyone's advice and suggestions-from old posts to new.
Click to expand...

If you are nervous about burning the paint, work on a test panel and touch it with your bare hand. Feel how hot it gets. Get used to how long it takes to heat the panel up.

mwoywod said:
First, I highly doubt that there would be any discernible difference between using a spritz of tap water vs a spritz of distilled. I can't imagine that the microscopic contaminants and minerals in tap water would have any negative effect in this instance.

Second, that was posted over 10 years ago which the pads and compounds have dramatically improved and there is FAR more lubrication in cutting compounds since that advice was posted. That said, the guy is seriously knowledgeable on the polishing process.
Click to expand...

You'd be surprised how "hard" the water can be in some places. I live in an area where the water comes out of limestone caves and the water is full of minerals.
 
Wow! I have been going thru the forum and reading up on stuff and came across this old thread as I like to look up old stuff and analyze what I sad back then, be it a year or so or 12 years ago as products, tools and materials we as detailers work with and on have changed.

From my post in this thread pretty much I would state the same today but revise the "spritz with liquid" part. I do find myself doing this with certain polishes to increase their work time and cut down dusting. I use a lot of Sonax Parfait for my middle and finish work but the other day I had a truck in rough shape, black and swirled up. I went at it with Meguiars M100 and a wool pad for my initial cut. Spritz with water every so often and I continued without adding more product. Then finished with Sonax Parfait and orange pad on Rupes 15. Some areas needed a 2nd step to level properly.

Also do NOT FEAR the wool pads. Wool is safer than foam as it runs cooler and a true lambs wool, with hide still attached, is by far the best wool polishing pads I have ever used. Rotary is a great tool to have and yes many of the newer forced rotation tools may make a rotary seem obsolete but they have their place and should not be overlooked.

I have now been polishing paint for 30 years now...good fricken grief! I'm old now people:( I hope to get some content up at some point and share with you all my methods, madness and philosophy in things detailing. I have wanted to do this for a good while but I always had an excuse to put it off.

Happy Thanksgiving All!

Anthony

The Art & Science Of Auto Detail
 
I have both a rotary And an orbital, and I don’t see the rotary as “stepping up“ at all. It’s a definite tool to use for specific jobs. Particularly the only time that I really use it is to get rid of sanding marks and when I’m working on gelcoat. Otherwise I use an orbital for everything. A rotary is for major heavy duty work like getting rid of sanding marks after you sand on headlights, or trying to get rid of orange peel by wet sanding. Then it works fantastically well with a hybrid wool pad , it does things an orbital can’t even touch especially on gelcoat. But if it’s just to get rid of swirls andMinor imperfections then I use an orbital. Just my two cents.
 
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