Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

[MrOneEyedBoh]

So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG

 

[CopperMtnGuy]

I would use 111 with 601 - i use it on all my vehicles and see a year or longer from it. 105 is like 111 but has polish in it.

 

[Markymapo1]

I have 105 after 601; then Aquawax every 4 months . Holds up well on my CaymanS

 

[FUNX650]

So sealant wise, is there a true difference between them? I'm looking for longevity and gloss and the vehicle is platinum white from Ford. Thus, there is pretty much no depth/reflection etc. I will be adding the 601 too... This combo has been around for years, I've just never tried it. I have yet to get past 3 months of decent beeding on a truck that sits outside. Excited to see how this combo works but confused on which polish to use from DG

My suggestion is to follow Richy’s guidelines
that are listed below. IMO: it takes the guess-
work out of the equation.

I speak with a certain voice of authority
when it comes to DG products. I am the
one that brought the concept of mixing
DG 501 or 105 or 111 with DG 601 at a
4:1 ratio to the AG community. I also beta
test products for them and have for years.

So having qualified my position, let me give
you my opinion on what will suit you the best:

*************************************
So, my suggestion to you is to
start with DG 501/601 in a 4:1 ratio.
Mix a small amount up in a squeeze bottle
(like a ketchup bottle) that you can buy at
a dollar store.

You can also try to mix it on the pad, but I
don't recommend doing it that way.

Work the mix in on a medium aggressive pad
(I adore the white Buff & Shine pad). A white
pad will be great as you will literally see the
crap coming off of the paint as it will discolour
your pad. You will need 2 or 3 pads to complete
the job. Clean them afterward in paint thinner....
this mix will NOT rinse out with water and/or APC.

*****************************************
Follow that step immediately (one of the advantages
to using the mix) with DG 105 or 111 mixed again
4:1 with 601.

Which one: 105 or 111?
Ignore the whole-it's labeled as a polish nonsense-
and choose according to what look you want.

The 111 has a more pure sealant (high gloss, plastic
kind of look) vs the 105 which is a bit warmer, more
like a wax kinda look. White, yellow, and red look
amazing with the 111 although I only use 105.


******************************************
You can then do another layer of that combo or
top it with a wax immediately afterward too.

Aquawax will definitely make it pop if you use
it periodically.

**************************************

That is my suggested route for you.

If you do not have a machine, you can still do
the 501/601 stage by hand. It will just take
longer and won't be as effective as it would
have using a machine.

I still recommend doing it, even if only by hand.

Hope this helps.


Bob

 

[DMiglio]

I agree with everything Bob wrote, the duragloss mix of 501/601 is a hard combo to beat. The 501 is great for its cleaners, it’s great on white and light colored vehicles such as yours. The 601 will help the product bond and cure instantly and mixed 4:1 makes it a simple one step process. I used it on a silver car some 5 or 6 years ago, in the sun and had no issues working it and allowing to haze a bit before wiping off.

Maintained with their car wash, rinseless wash and aquawax makes it a very easy regiment with minimal products required in this day and age of endless toppers and maintenance products... man this thread has me thinking I need to start buying up some DG products haha

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks!!

 

[57Rambler]

Duragloss 111 = Straight up sealant
Duragloss 105 = Light paint cleaner (chemical) + sealant
Duragloss 501 = More paint cleaning ability (chemical) + sealant

Duragloss "polishes" are a bit of a misnomer as most of them do not contain abrasives and are really more of a sealant. You would need to step up to #652 or #671 (aka SMR) to get one of their products which contains abrasives.

On a white vehicle with paint in good condition, I would go with the #105 + #601 combo as white paint can usually do with at least a bit of paint "cleaning". Conversely, if the paint is new and uncomtaminated, go with #111 + #601 combo, or if the paint needs more cleaning go with the #501 + #601 combo (though at this point you may be more inclined to clay it depending on the extent of contamination ?)

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

The truck is new with 1800 miles on it. Haven't clayed it but it feels decent. Definitely needs it and plan on doing it soon with a clay puck from Griot's. Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards. Being white, I can prolly get away from it.

 

[FUNX650]

The truck is new with 1800 miles on it.
Haven't clayed it but it feels decent.
Definitely needs it and plan on doing it
soon with a clay puck from Griot's.

Hopefully I don't need to polish it afterwards.
Being white, I can prolly get away from it.

•I’ll recommend that you do not cut any
corners in your Duragloss-ing processes.
-Even if it’s just using a very light polish,
I always polish after Claying.

•If you will follow Richy’s guidelines that’s
posted above to a tee, you’ll notice that
the first step is using the 501/601 combo.
-That combo will give you that ‘very light
polishing step’ I’m talking about. And you’ll
be glad you did!


Bob

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks Yeah I'll have to suck it up and do it. I was going to wait until the fall to do it because of the heat... I dont have a garage. Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

 

[57Rambler]

•If you will follow Richy’s guidelines that’s
posted above to a tee, you’ll notice that
the first step is using the 501/601 combo.
-That combo will give you that ‘very light
polishing step’ I’m talking about. And you’ll
be glad you did!

Bob

That is confusing as Jerry told me that the only difference between #105 and #501 was the amount of "cleaning" ability and that neither had any abrasives.

And his recommendation for new(er) white paint was #105 + #601.

Even if Jerry is wrong and #501 had some abrasives, why would you mix the bonding agent with it if you are just using the #501 to "polish" the surface and then are going back with #105 + #601 or #111 + #601 ? The #105 or #111 is what you want to make sure "bonds" to the paint.


:dunno:

 

[57Rambler]

Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

Straight from Duragloss' product info page ...

Step Saver Tip - Blend 4 parts #105 to 1 part 601, Polish Bonding Agent for added durability and gloss. Accelerates the curing process for instant bonding. Apply within 2 hours after mixing for maximum results.

Some people have said the "mix" is viable for longer than that, but why take a chance. The manufacturer knows what is best/optimum.

 

[DMiglio]

Thanks Yeah I'll have to suck it up and do it. I was going to wait until the fall to do it because of the heat... I dont have a garage. Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

I echo Rambler, best to use based on the manufacturers directions/instructions. In saying that I have used the mix 4:1 and after doing my fathers car had about an ounce or so remaining. I used it some two months later and it had thickened up quite a bit in that time. Don’t remember what it was like to use at that time as I was just applying to a hood for fun.

 

[FUNX650]

That is confusing as Jerry told me that the only difference between #105 and #501 was the amount of "cleaning" ability and that neither had any abrasives.

And his recommendation for new(er) white paint was #105 + #601.

Even if Jerry is wrong and #501 had some abrasives, why would you mix the bonding agent with it if you are just using the #501 to "polish" the surface and then are going back with #105 + #601 or #111 + #601 ? The #105 or #111 is what you want to make sure "bonds" to the paint.


:dunno:

Once one gets to know Jerry and Richy’s
“history”...it’ll immediately become clear
that when it comes to all things Duragloss:
Richy is the auto detailing forums’ expert.

‘Nuff said, IMO.


Bob

 

[57Rambler]

Once one gets to know Jerry and Richy’s
“history”...it’ll immediately become clear
that when it comes to all things Duragloss:
Richy is the auto detailing forums’ expert.

‘Nuff said, IMO.


Bob

So Richy knows more about Duragloss products than one of the founding brothers/chemists ?

Not trying to be argumentative, I know Richy is one of Jerry's "beta testers", I just do not understand why Jerry would contradict. Afterall, he is the one who answers emails/contacts directed to Duragloss.

 

[MarkD51]

If it's any help, yes, I tried #501 with a D/A once to see what correction abilities it had? It had basically zero.
Others have hit the line-up spot on. Chemical cleaners only, no abrasives in any of them, with 501 having the most, then 105 with less, and last #111 with none, just a pure sealant product.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

This is what I was thinking/wondering and to me makes sense. What do you guys think....

Its a white truck, Im trying to get away from being so anal about swirls etc. The paint now days is THIN, so I dont really wanna correct the swirls etc if its not THAT bad. So with that being said, I was going to clay using Griots synthetic clay puck, maybe use a paint cleaner ( chemical based ) and then use this 601+111. Ok so here is where Im confused -

If 111 is pure sealant, then it should be the most stout, right? This then leads me into where 105 has me a bit confused.

If they're using a chemical cleaner in the sealant such as 105 , then there has to be some sacrifice in the longevity of that sealant no?

1) Because there has to be less sealant in the mix/bottle as the cleaner is taking up some space/volume in the mix ...
2) Wouldnt the cleaner hinder some of the life of the sealant since its well... cleaning the paint the same time as its trying to lay down protection?

Seems its smarter to hit the paint with something like PBs Professional Polish non-abrasive cleaner ( I have this already ) and then hit it again with the 111+601 as the SOLE sealant and no cleaners introduced at the protection step.. Would be great to save a step and use 105+601 though...

Make sense?

 

[DMiglio]

I wouldn’t over think this too much. Detailing has become so complicated over the years that it makes it hard to just go out in the garage and have fun. If you have the Duragloss products, I highly recommend doing a polishing step with the 105 and then applying the 111/601 combo. If you just have 111/601, then definitely use those after PB’s polish.

Either way it’s best to use a cleaner or polish before applying the sealant as this will maximize the results in how the car looks and how it’s protected!

 

[MarkD51]

I'm not going to say you're over-thinking things, thinking and being logically analytical is good.

All three are very good products, can say anything bad about them. I've used all three, but I never combined them with 601, never had such on hand to try.

One thing you could try, and there would certainly be no harm-foul, is try #111 first. (if you want to toss a few drops of 601 on a applicator pad too on a whim, go right ahead)

And sample the results on one panel. If you like the results, carry on, make yourself a adequate mix of 111-601 and go at it.

As I see it, just about every protectant product under the sun has some sort of carrier solvents in the formulation. Even with pure Sealants, Carnaubas, and Hybrids, there's going to be some degree of cleansing action occurring, cutting through some of the cruds that might be on the paint. Dirts, maybe not so much, but greasy smearing, oils, and maybe pollens-fallouts might vanish off the paint.

As for the differences in longevity-durability of 501-105-111, I think it comes down to cutting hairs as to the time differences as to how long each might last. Might it be a week? Or two?

If that's a highly important aspect and goal that you're trying to achieve, a long protective life without returning to a full blown detail then I might look to Collinite #476 as a more conventional product. Or as some others like, PNS.

I'd like adding....Not sure what, if any of these products you already have on hand? If some, or all, then experiment some.

No doubt about 501, it cleans very nicely. Not many other products that are sort of an AIO compare. And no, this isn't perhaps the equal of Blackfire AIO.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks guys as Always!