Help with headlamp restoration

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NeoSquall

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I did a headlamp restoration the other day. The steps and things used is as follows:-

1. 800 grit sandpaper
2. 1000 grit sandpaper
3. 2000 grit sandpaper
4. Purple foam wool with Menzerna PF2200
5. LC orange pad with Menzerna PF2200

I wet sanded the whole headlamp and polished with the purple foam wool initially. However there is still a slight haze to the headlamp. I then took out the orange pad and did a further polish. Looks good but I cant seem to remove the scratches caused by the 2000 grit sand paper to a perfect flawless finish. The scratches can be seen under direct lighting. I went back with the orange pad and still I cant remove the scratches.

Now the question is. What went wrong? did I not sand enough? or the products Im using is not suitable?Feed back please
 
Pictures that would help. I would recommend going with a headlight it. Keeps you safe and on track.
 
I would suggest adding 3000 grit to help refine the scratches enough for the compound and polish
 
conquistador said:
I would suggest adding 3000 grit to help refine the scratches enough for the compound and polish
Click to expand...

Agree. Probably don't need to start at 800 either. I haven't found a need to go more aggressive than 1500. I try to start at 2000, then 3000, then compound, then polish, then sealant.
 
Could be any remaining scratches are the #800 or #1000 and you didn't sand long enough with the #2000 to level them out so as to only leave #2000 behind.

Also what tool are you using?

My guess due to your location would be a rotary buffer. If so, get a normal wool cutting pad instead of the PFW and have at it and even use a more aggressive compound instead of a polish.

Plastic is actually pretty easy to sand and buff but the buffing is faster and easier with a more aggressive pad and product.


:)
 
Thanks a lot guys for your feedback!

your guess is correct Mike! I was using a Makita when I was doing the job.

I guess I should finish it down with 3000 and use a more aggressive product rather than the polish. Will take note!
 
If you use the 3000grit, you may not need the extra compounding step but it also shouldn't hurt. I believe this is the reason the 3M kit with 3000 grit only has one polish step. To me, 3000 grit is very similar to compounding, although it probably does provide some more leveling. Most aggressive compounds are capable of removing 1200/1500 grit marks with a wool or aggressive pad.

As Mike stated, make sure you are removing the previous grit sanding marks. One good way to do this is to sand one direction with one grit, then sand 90 degrees with the next grit. Don't stop sanding until you can longer see the grit marks from the last grit that run perpendicular to the grit you are now using. Also inspect with the strongest light you can find and look at different angles. Repeat the same for the following grits, always sanding at 90deg to the last grit and inspecting for leftover sanding scratches from the previous grit
 
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