Help with tar/blacktop stains

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CMW

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Hello all,
first time poster long time lurker

I need some help.... I have these tar stain on my White car they only stick to the painted plastic parts. (There are no tar chunks, those came right off)

I live in a city that decided to do all road construction on every road this summer 2018, on Monday night I spent time and used the microfiber cutting system and after a while they came out.

List of things I have tried:
Washing (these are within 12 hours old) I wiped the bulk tar pieces off 10 minutes after I went through construction with Waterless wash and wax.
Clay
Ultimate Wax
Ultimate Polish on Yellow Foam pad
Ultimate polish on heavy cut Foam pad
Ultimate compound on Heavy cut Foam pad (this got most out)
Ultimate compound on Microfiber cutting disk (this worked but I cant do that everytime or I wont have paint left)

Today after it happened I have tried:
Bug and tar remover 2 different brands (letting it dwell for a good long while about 15 minutes)
gasoline
Hydrogen Peroxide (not really sure why but hey)
goo off the heavy duty kind,
kerosene


no luck......
I hate seeing these spots and you cant really make them out from a foot or two away but brand new car and I dont want them there.
 
Try Stoner's Tarninator. There's a great thread titled "Tar Covered Subaru BRZ" from a few days ago but I don't know how to link it from Tapatalk.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
I think recommending he try another tar removing product is an absolute waste of time, as he already tried everything from tar remover to goof off to kerosene. It's stained the plastic, I think compounding is the only way to get it out. I have a customer with a 1968 Camaro SS with an LS2 in it. He loves burning rubber in it. The melted rubber flies onto the lower rear quarters and sticks. Even after we get all the rubber off, the paint is still stained. I've tried everything to get it out and the only thing that works is a light compounding. His car, not mine.
 
sudsmobile said:
I think recommending he try another tar removing product is an absolute waste of time, as he already tried everything from tar remover to goof off to kerosene. It's stained the plastic, I think compounding is the only way to get it out. I have a customer with a 1968 Camaro SS with an LS2 in it. He loves burning rubber in it. The melted rubber flies onto the lower rear quarters and sticks. Even after we get all the rubber off, the paint is still stained. I've tried everything to get it out and the only thing that works is a light compounding. His car, not mine.
Click to expand...

Have you tried this?

29b2ac82c335022b313155efc645e593.jpg


Mothers R3 Racing Rubber Remover, rubber scuff remover, boot scuff eraser

@OP. This is why you need a solid layer of protection on your vehicle, a good sealant might make a big difference in how easy you’re able to remove those marks.

Try a product called Rapid Remover.
 
Have not tried this product yet but how would this do better than goo off or lacquer thinner
I can compound these out then seal and wax ect... but then the next time I drive through construction they dont come off.

I obviously cannnot keep compounding or I will run out of paint. What can I do?

Also tried Stoners didn’t do anything.

Also have two coats of sealent wax and 2 quotes of carnuaba wax on there
 
You could try citrol 266 I'm not sure if ag sells it but it usually works where other products fail...kind of pricey though(to me anyways)

Sent from my Z982 using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
CMW said:
Also have two coats of sealent wax and 2 quotes of carnuaba wax on there
Click to expand...

IMO you shouldn’t do that... The wax probably removed the sealant, which has left you with the inferior protection of the wax.🤦🏻
 
I am not a pro by any means but I was under the understanding as long as it was a true carnuba without any additives or polymers it won’t act as a cleaner wax more of just a top coat to the sealent. And even if I have just straight wax on the area I wiped the the spots five minutes into the drive when I got out of the car I would assume a wax would protect for 5 min even if there was no sealent.
 
Is there any workers at the construction place when you drive by? Try to ask them what they use and what chemicals they are cleaning it up with. Seems to be something that don't desolves with petroleum based products. Since you have tested those out thoroughly. It's different chemicals desolves different kind of dirt. So first try to find out what those little spots are. The recommended citrol degreaser can be an option to try. Since it's based on citrus oils it's effective to not just petroleum based dirt but to a wider kind based dirt. You can also try something high alkaline degreaser like Meguiars Super Degreaser d108. Otherwise you have have an acid based cleaner to try out too. And if you don't get any solution to take care of spots. The option to try out a protection that has a higher chemical resistant. And creates a sacrificial layer that the stain bonds to instead. That will get you a easier clean up with the polisher and a less aggressive combo that don't take off to much clearcoat.

I would also try a cleaner wax/AIO or a paint cleaner and see how that works. They have different chemical cleaners in them.
 
Can you recommend a good cleaner wax? And a good sealer to help with this?

The road they are/we’re working on is on a freeway so that won’t be easy. However I did call for and they gave me a number to a construction company that deals with asphalt that they used for the particular project but I haven’t gotten a call back about that yet.

I forgot to mention I did try a little bit of water spit acid by p&s but that did not work.

Also thought about 3m the areas that are affected? Seems like it would come off or I can rip it off and put another layer on as it gets old and grungy.

As these areas are so small I can apply the 3m myself and just buy some online.
 
I would test one of the most recommend new cleaner wax Blackfire One Step. And put Sonax Polymer Net Shield sealant over it for extra protection. Or the one of the most used and liked cleaner wax 3D HD Speed. And seal it in with Sonax PNS. Get a bottle of Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer to use either as a drying aid or after drying as a topper to the PNS. You don't need to apply BSD after every wash but maybe every 4th wash or 4 weeks.

The 3M ppf is great idea to apply to the parts that you need to. And take it of when they have finished the construction work.

Is it very newly laid out asphalt so you basicly drive on it when it's still warm? Thought if it is so hot the spots when hitting your car so it's burns or melts the paint a little. It's strange that you only gets the spots on plastic panels. Which panels is it you don't get them off?

What car do you have?
 
CMW said:
Can you recommend a good cleaner wax? And a good sealer to help with this?

The road they are/we’re working on is on a freeway so that won’t be easy. However I did call for and they gave me a number to a construction company that deals with asphalt that they used for the particular project but I haven’t gotten a call back about that yet.

I forgot to mention I did try a little bit of water spit acid by p&s but that did not work.

Also thought about 3m the areas that are affected? Seems like it would come off or I can rip it off and put another layer on as it gets old and grungy.

As these areas are so small I can apply the 3m myself and just buy some online.
Click to expand...

You really need to keep it off the paint. Once it gets on it the oils start to soak into the paint immediately. A good sealant would be Ultima paint guard plus. Actually I would probably put a ceramic coating on at least those areas. I just washed a truck I coated a couple months ago and the tar rinsed right off with the hose. Paint is actually porous so oils or in this case tar gets down into the paint. A ceramic coating will keep the oils from ever touching the paint. Obviously the sealant you're using and wax isn't doing that. You don't have to coat the whole car, although it wouldn't be a bad thing to do. Get those areas clean and coat them, you definitely can't keep compounding every couple weeks. Is this car a Toyota by chance??
 
SWETM said:
I would test one of the most recommend new cleaner wax Blackfire One Step. And put Sonax Polymer Net Shield sealant over it for extra protection. Or the one of the most used and liked cleaner wax 3D HD Speed. And seal it in with Sonax PNS. Get a bottle of Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer to use either as a drying aid or after drying as a topper to the PNS. You don't need to apply BSD after every wash but maybe every 4th wash or 4 weeks.

The 3M ppf is great idea to apply to the parts that you need to. And take it of when they have finished the construction work.

Is it very newly laid out asphalt so you basicly drive on it when it's still warm? Thought if it is so hot the spots when hitting your car so it's burns or melts the paint a little. It's strange that you only gets the spots on plastic panels. Which panels is it you don't get them off?

What car do you have?
Click to expand...

Not sure how old it is within at least a day or two. It’s around the wheel wells and side skirts (both painted plastic)

I will look into both of those waxes

Car is a new Durango SRT
 
Like I said I took it off the paint in about 5 min after I left from my origin so somewhere in my 5 minute drive I got out and wiped it off. Whatever it is it’s potent as hell.

A ceramic coating is a good idea.

It’s a 2018 durango SRT
 
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