Hey Mike! Leather question...

king-david said:
Well for really dry seats with no luster... Would it be a good idea to remove the layer, use this type of conditioner/moisturizer, and then add a coating back? A lot of work but the results would be fantastic I believe.
Click to expand...


Just like with paint, try a test spot to deep clean and protect before tackling a restoration. You might be surprised by the results.

Redoing the topcoat is a very lengthy process (like 1 week or more not using the car). You will be stripping and sanding (2000 grit) off any remaining topcoat to an even texture, then conditioning and recoating. There are kits out there that run $150-$200 for this, but doing the whole car would probably take a couple of these kits.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Yep... that's what I was thinking. So for the most part leather in modern cars isn't really dead cow skin, it's probably more akin to vinyl than animal hide.

I guess that's what they call progress...


:D
Click to expand...

Haha, quite likely. I know for sure most "lower end" (ie not porsche, merc, bmw, et al, and up), and even those guys somewhat, mix and match the panels on seats to where some are coated leather and others are vinyl. This is most noticeable on things like minivans and suvs to where most people could tell a difference if they looked closely.
 
I'm hooked on leather masters products. Leather masters vital and then protect are hard to beat. As mentioned leatherique

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
A-train said:
I'm hooked on leather masters products. Leather masters vital and then protect are hard to beat. As mentioned leatherique is good but I can't tell a difference between the two systems on coated leather. To me it's not worth the application process. Also leather master is much thicker of a product.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top