Hidro2 disapeppeared after wash

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I had a problem with hidro2 layer,It was applied two weeks ago . I sprayed 3D Bug remover ( soft dilution) in front and the rest washed with CG citrus wash and glos ( low dilution. ) It has disappeared completely hidro2. I thought it would be stronger against chemical. Im very disapointed

https://m.facebook.com/Mauri-Motor-689588047801936/
 
Might be the gloss agents in the wash soap muting the sealant's effects, it shouldn't be "gone" after just one wash. The bug remover, however, may have degraded it more.
 

#1. 3D Bug remover - This can have an adverse effect on the durability of Hydro2 since it is made to degrade bugs. Now in a "soft dilution" is should not have but it will have some effect.

#2. CG citrus wash and gloss - This has gloss agents in it that will cover over the properties of Hydro2. You really should use CarPro Reset to remove the gloss agents CG CW&G before you assume that the Hydro2 is gone. CG CW&G is notorious for this.

 
If your having a hard time with hydro how in the hell did you ever get approved to install finest?
 
Hydro2 normally lasts me 3 months. I make sure I use a soap that has no wax or glossifiers in it. If you use the wrong soap on ANY coating product it will inhibit the coatings natural beading/sheeting properties. It is also best to only use Hydro2 on uncoated/waxed paint. As with all coating the prep work is the key.
 
A lack of water beading does not accurately indicate if a layer of protection (wax, sealant, or coating) has been removed.

Water beading is simply an indication of high surface tension. Most cleaning chemicals will lower surface tension... shampoos and solvent based cleaners (like bug removers) will certainly effect surface tension.

Just because the water beading was effected by your cleaning does not mean the HydrO2 has failed entirely. It just means the surface tension was changed. This could be due to some residual product, or due to a heavy concentration of shampoo. Beading may return some if the area is cleaned again, or it may be gone for good. In any case, we need to stop associating water beading with product failure.
 
Ya, there was a post not long ago about wax durability and how to strip it. The guy waxed his car and it changed color. So he tried various methods to remove the wax including degreasers and dawn and the only way he managed to remove it was by polishing. So you can be pretty confident that Hydro2 is still there, the fact it's not beading is not an indication the product is gone.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
A lack of water beading does not accurately indicate if a layer of protection (wax, sealant, or coating) has been removed.

Water beading is simply an indication of high surface tension. Most cleaning chemicals will lower surface tension... shampoos and solvent based cleaners (like bug removers) will certainly effect surface tension.

Just because the water beading was effected by your cleaning does not mean the HydrO2 has failed entirely. It just means the surface tension was changed. This could be due to some residual product, or due to a heavy concentration of shampoo. Beading may return some if the area is cleaned again, or it may be gone for good. In any case, we need to stop associating water beading with product failure.
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I agree about the associating water beading with product failure. However, what's the best way to determine if an LSP has worn out or failed without the surface tension factor?
 
That's the thing... in the real world, for us consumers, there is no way to tell if a super tiny layer of product still exists or not.

For traditional waxes and sealants, when water beading began to diminish, the easiest solution was always just to apply a new coat and forget about it.

However, with the growing popularity of paint coatings, people do not want to have to recoat their car if the beading has stopped after 6 months so understanding that water beading does not indicate product failure or lack of protection is now more relevant. If a vehicle owner wants to rejuvenate water beading, it may be as simple as deep cleaning and decontaminating the coating to remove any contamination that may be present and therefore changing the surface tension.... or adding a coating topper or hydrophobic quick detailer also works.
 
runrun411 said:
I agree about the associating water beading with product failure. However, what's the best way to determine if an LSP has worn out or failed without the surface tension factor?
Click to expand...

No way.

But, I think the problem here is the CW & G by CGs. This soap leaves "something" behind that messes up beading. It doesn't strip the LSP, but leaves some type of film. I've seen it with my own 2 eyes. V7 does the same thing.
 
Assuming Hydro2 is as easy to apply as Permanon ( the product I have with similar properties) why not just re-apply to panel. I mean 5 minutes tops and you are good to go. If the question is what removed it then go to the manufacturer and keep us posted.
 
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