Horror Story and Need a Professional Auto Detailer in Daytona/Ormond Beach FL Area?

Or come over to ft myers beach for the day and give the car to me .As I work on it you can go to the beach and see some fine honeys on the beach as your car is fixed.239 878 0543

On my way from Nevada lol

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
You might need a paint reading, I have a G37 and never had to use compound (Slate Blue).

So many time at a hack place, who knows what they did and tried to cover up with glaze.
 
OP - as tons of people have said, 100% use AGO to find your detailer. I recently did it for a buddy in Philly. I made a thread in Off Topic saying Detailer need in ______ . Describe the problem, include the pics, and the professionals that see the damage and know they can fix it will come to you. And you will probably get referrels to detailers that people have used previously. But it sounds like you already have a few good offers just in this thread.
Also a great option! Heck, now I want to bring my car to you..
Very humble. Much respect to you rms :dblthumb2:
 
PLEASE take on Rob's advice to get your paint back in shape. I am confident that you guys can get that black paint properly polished out over a weekend.

Thanks Mike! Appreciate the comment!

Take him up on the offer, OP. He'll provide lots of help.

Thank you Sir - this kind of stuff give me a charge for sure.

OP - as tons of people have said, 100% use AGO to find your detailer. I recently did it for a buddy in Philly. I made a thread in Off Topic saying Detailer need in ______ . Describe the problem, include the pics, and the professionals that see the damage and know they can fix it will come to you. And you will probably get referrels to detailers that people have used previously. But it sounds like you already have a few good offers just in this thread.
Very humble. Much respect to you rms :dblthumb2:

Thanks Buddy - big believer in helping out as I can - plus, I love it!
 
Actually, one thing concerns me about this car and the help that is pouring in.

Does this car have scratchshield paint? You can check by opening the hood and seeing if there's a sticker under the hood.

If the car has scratchshield, fixing this is not going to be a walk in the park. That stuff is extremely difficult to work and is very different than normal paint.
 
Actually, one thing concerns me about this car and the help that is pouring in.

Does this car have scratchshield paint? You can check by opening the hood and seeing if there's a sticker under the hood.

If the car has scratchshield, fixing this is not going to be a walk in the park. That stuff is extremely difficult to work and is very different than normal paint.

The other guy didn't have such a hard time making a mess of it :hungry:

I believe Nissan gave up on the self healing paint a few years ago due to the problems.
 
The other guy didn't have such a hard time making a mess of it :hungry:

I believe Nissan gave up on the self healing paint a few years ago due to the problems.


I just got back home and looked under the hood. A sticker says HARD CLEAR COAT.

Would that make any difference?
 
I had a 2001 i30 with the "hard clear coat" sticker under the hood. It was the first car I really got into detailing with, and when they said hard clear coat, they meant it! Took me a couple weeks to get the process down and complete to get rid of all the swirls.

Now? Not so sure...Infiniti is not known for having hard paint, although there have been a few posts about the newer vehicles (Q50) that show they might be figuring things out in regards to their paint. I suppose its possible it really is hard, but the standard go to process (least aggressive pad + product first) will help sort that out.
 
Thank you everyone for the response. I spoke with a detailer that works for a body shop that I trust and know people have used them. The detailer said these are the steps he would use to fix the problem:

Compound wool pad, compound foam pad, glaze waffle pad, swirl remover waffle pad. Then finish up with a wax. --------< does this sound like it will remove the spider web scratches and other not good stuff?

I am originally from Long Island, NY if I was their now I have plenty of people i could show car to and send me in right direction. Down here in FL, its a different story.

My suggestion, stop using "detailers" body shops recommend. My experience has been not many body shops really know what paint correction and true detailing really is.
 
Thank you everyone for the response. I spoke with a detailer that works for a body shop that I trust and know people have used them. The detailer said these are the steps he would use to fix the problem:

Compound wool pad, compound foam pad, glaze waffle pad, swirl remover waffle pad. Then finish up with a wax. --------< does this sound like it will remove the spider web scratches and other not good stuff?

I am originally from Long Island, NY if I was their now I have plenty of people i could show car to and send me in right direction. Down here in FL, its a different story.


Sounds lik eit will remove alot more than just the defects, wow!
 
I just got back home and looked under the hood. A sticker says HARD CLEAR COAT.

Would that make any difference?
I have a Murano that says hard clear coat. It's anything but. I think that just means it's not the self correcting paint.
 
I just got back home and looked under the hood. A sticker says HARD CLEAR COAT.

Would that make any difference?

The Q50 brochures all say that Scratch Shield is present, but I am not sure about the Q60.

The older Infinitis that had Scratch Shield would have a "Scratch Shield" sticker under the hood, not "hard clear coat."

So it's possible that yours just has the normal one.
 
Getting down to AG for a Thursday is hard with my schedule, was hoping I can find someone in the surrounding area that is a professional and would get the job done fully.

Your post is already working to accomplish this....


Wish I could hire AG to do fix it and teach me at the same time.

AG isn't a detail shop.

Myself, Todd Helme, Nick, Ray and a few others detail cars on the side, (it's our passion, and prices vary.



if you can get to Orlando, go to sikwhips motorsports and talk to Mark. he will take care of you

Does this person belong to and post to this forum? If not, maybe share us with them.

I don't recommend people using people that don't have a posting history to show their work on our forum. No posting history means no proof they actually know what they're doing. Here's my article on that....

Detailers that hang out on discussion forums know more than detailers that don't...


To the OP... I'd strongly recommend sticking with someone that has a posting history that shows they know what they are doing and is backed up with write-ups that document their success.

I'm confident there are guys in the world that DON'T get on forums but being a forum member has benefits and one of those benefits is getting work by proving you can walk the walk by your write-ups plus photography work.


I noticed you're in Ormond Beach, I'll be on vacation in Ponce Inlet the week of 4/13, I'll take care of it for ya 8-)

I'd highly recommend Eric. He's worked on some very cool cars with me personally here at Autogeek's Garage and a regular member that showcases his talent through our forum.

It's documented he knows his stufff.... see him in action here....


Rupes 21 & Flex 3401 Comparison + Detailer's Paint Coating

1932_Ford_Phaeton_072.jpg




Seriously though, see about getting down to Autogeek for Thursday night classes if you can, they are free and you learn a ton. The only downside (for me, at least) is somehow my credit card balance goes higher and higher when I go there.


Thank you and don't blame me... :D


My suggestion, stop using "detailers" body shops recommend.

My experience has been not many body shops really know what paint correction and true detailing really is.

Body shops, Dealerships and too many shops or people that use the word detailing are the worst offenders.

Stick with someone that has a posting history documenting their knowledge and talent.

:)
 
I'm a detailer in Daytona. I would be more than happy to do a free inspection for you and let you know what it will take to do it right and get rid of all that damage done to your car, no obligations. It's the least I can do for a fellow forum member. We can have a few beers and talk while we put your car under my lights and do a proper assessment. You can also ask me any questions you may have.

Just from the pictures, The car will most likely need a full decon wash, then clay the car again just to make sure, followed by a medium polish to get rid of all the damage, and finish it off with a ultra fine finishing polish. All this finishing work should (in most cases) be done with a DA, not a rotary, and using MF and Foam pads, not wool. Top that off with a sealant or wax depending on your tastes.

If you use a glaze, it is to temporarily cover up imperfections and is to be done AFTER all polishing is completed. Think of a glaze as the wood filler putty you stuff into a cracked piece of wood to make things level. Except that a glaze will wash away pretty quickly. Once it does, the crack (or scratch) is visible again. This is a "band-aid". If you sand the wood down to eliminate the scratches there is no need for a glaze.

I PM'd you my contact info. Text me if you wanna meet up and I can tell you all you wanna know about your paint.
 
I'm a detailer in Daytona. I would be more than happy to do a free inspection for you and let you know what it will take to do it right and get rid of all that damage done to your car, no obligations. It's the least I can do for a fellow forum member. We can have a few beers and talk while we put your car under my lights and do a proper assessment. You can also ask me any questions you may have.

Just from the pictures, The car will most likely need a full decon wash, then clay the car again just to make sure, followed by a medium polish to get rid of all the damage, and finish it off with a ultra fine finishing polish. All this finishing work should (in most cases) be done with a DA, not a rotary, and using MF and Foam pads, not wool. Top that off with a sealant or wax depending on your tastes.

If you use a glaze, it is to temporarily cover up imperfections and is to be done AFTER all polishing is completed. Think of a glaze as the wood filler putty you stuff into a cracked piece of wood to make things level. Except that a glaze will wash away pretty quickly. Once it does, the crack (or scratch) is visible again. This is a "band-aid". If you sand the wood down to eliminate the scratches there is no need for a glaze.

I PM'd you my contact info. Text me if you wanna meet up and I can tell you all you wanna know about your paint.

If you take Jae up on his kind offer you will not be disappointed and your long nightmare will be over. Plus he lives right in your town.
 
Thank you everyone for your input, post and help. All very much appreciated and I am glad I found AG. I will be on the site very much to learn as much as I can.

I am bringing my car to Garry Dean in Tampa next Thursday. After speaking with my attorney we found its best to deal with a professional shop for various reasons. The original place that caused the problems will be taking care of the cost of the damages.

Thank you again who offered to help and gave their input, it shows they type of people that are still out their.

Mike
 
Definitely a choice that works, wise decision. And glad to hear they are paying.
 
Garry Dean is a good guy! We had dinner together and fun hanging out at DetailFest this year. He will take good care of your paint for sure.

Post up the after pics here!
 
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