How are you cutting down time?

Willy Wang

Willy Wang

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Hey Guys,

Just wanted to start a thread on how everyone is cutting down time on corrections. Please explain the little tips and tricks you guys have discovered and use to speed up single or multiple stage corrections.

One thing that has severely cut down time for me is claying immediately after the wash without drying. There just isn't any sense to dry the car if I'm about to lubricate the paint up again for claying.

I only tape off rubber trims around windows and the rubber/felt trim around sun roofs. I've noticed a lot of the metal trims aren't really affected by a light rub from the side of my pad.

Please chime in! Thanks!
 
I was asking me the same question on how to get the job done properly, effective and in less time... waiting for the experience folks to chine in.
 
My complete detail no matter what a do always takes me as least 6 hours just depends on the car. I have tried lost of things but still same amount of time. Having a steamer makes things much easier when doing interior work.
 
I do the same, then I wash it again, blow it then dry.
It's much easier to clay while the car is still wet.
No matter what I do my avg. time is 12 hours.

My wife says I'm too anal but that's just me, perfection or the closest I can get to my ability.
Ome thing that helped some was replacing my PC with the GG6 using 5.5 inch pads.
One used a Flex to see if it was faster and it wasn't much faster if any.

I have a truck to do this weekend ,I'll try using my trust rotary and see what that does for me. :dblthumb2:





Willy Wang said:
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to start a thread on how everyone is cutting down time on corrections. Please explain the little tips and tricks you guys have discovered and use to speed up single or multiple stage corrections.

One thing that has severely cut down time for me is claying immediately after the wash without drying. There just isn't any sense to dry the car if I'm about to lubricate the paint up again for claying.

I only tape off rubber trims around windows and the rubber/felt trim around sun roofs. I've noticed a lot of the metal trims aren't really affected by a light rub from the side of my pad.

Please chime in! Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Onr washing

Nano skin towel medium grade is 4x faster than claying

I Dont use much finesse when correcting. If say HD Cut is taking too long to correct, I switch to M100 and a more aggressive pad.

AIO when needed. I like ones that really cut like HD Speed or Optimum GPS.

I Dont tape unless im compounding. I Dont use anything that will stain trim.

Use a rotary when needed. Removing any marring/holograms from a rotary is much faster than doing half a dozen steps with a DA trying to cut through heavy rids.

Sometimes you simply can't cut time, but use every opportunity to do so when possible.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
VP Mark said:
Onr washing

Nano skin towel medium grade is 4x faster than claying

I Dont use much finesse when correcting. If say HD Cut is taking too long to correct, I switch to M100 and a more aggressive pad.

AIO when needed. I like ones that really cut like HD Speed or Optimum GPS.

I Dont tape unless im compounding. I Dont use anything that will stain trim.

Use a rotary when needed. Removing any marring/holograms from a rotary is much faster than doing half a dozen steps with a DA trying to cut through heavy rids.

Sometimes you simply can't cut time, but use every opportunity to do so when possible.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
Click to expand...

Great tips!

How does the medium grade nanoskin differ from the fine grade?
 
The emblems have a clear plastic film over them, and running a buffer on them can lift this film up. Don't ask me how I know. (luckily, the dealer replaced it under warrenty).

Like VP, I don't use anything that stains trim.
 
stilltipping3 said:
its stronger but may leave marring.
Click to expand...

This is correct. I have a fine grade sponge that I use for soft clears and most black paints.

For the most part the medium grade is the way to go because as long as you aren't marring you might as well do the job as fast as possible.
 
VP Mark said:
Onr washing

Nano skin towel medium grade is 4x faster than claying

I Dont use much finesse when correcting. If say HD Cut is taking too long to correct, I switch to M100 and a more aggressive pad.

AIO when needed. I like ones that really cut like HD Speed or Optimum GPS.

I Dont tape unless im compounding. I Dont use anything that will stain trim.

Use a rotary when needed. Removing any marring/holograms from a rotary is much faster than doing half a dozen steps with a DA trying to cut through heavy rids.

Sometimes you simply can't cut time, but use every opportunity to do so when possible.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
Click to expand...

Is an ONR wash followed by nanoskin decon enough to clean out all old wax too?
 
UDP said:
Is an ONR wash followed by nanoskin decon enough to clean out all old wax too?
Click to expand...

It is possible, but a lot of factors could effect that such as what type of product it is, how it was applied, ect..

Your polishing/compound step will be what removes left over LSP.

ONR is really hard on most LSP's, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't test, especially before applying a coating, to make sure that left over LSP has been stripped by your polishing step.
 
IMO it comes to down to doing a thorough evaluation of the vehicle, knowing what your up against and PREPARING properly.

The 5 P"s that have made the biggest difference in my work : Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance !!!
 
PERFECTIONPLUS said:
IMO it comes to down to doing a thorough evaluation of the vehicle, knowing what your up against and PREPARING properly.

The 5 P"s that have made the biggest difference in my work : Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance !!!
Click to expand...

I thought is was the 6 "P's"
 
Have a system, organize everything so you dont make 200 trips back and forth, pressure sprayers, categorize sections of vehicle into jobs to maximize efficiency and reduce waste.
 
I also like to color coordinate my towels.

Yellow are for interior
Blue and white are for windows
Purple and grey are for paint
Black are for wheels.
 
HateSwirls said:
I do the same, then I wash it again, blow it then dry.
It's much easier to clay while the car is still wet.
No matter what I do my avg. time is 12 hours.

My wife says I'm too anal but that's just me, perfection or the closest I can get to my ability.
Ome thing that helped some was replacing my PC with the GG6 using 5.5 inch pads.
One used a Flex to see if it was faster and it wasn't much faster if any.

I have a truck to do this weekend ,I'll try using my trust rotary and see what that does for me. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

Doesn't really matter which buffer you use there aren't really any short cuts. Organization will help as will having the correct tools for the job. I do use the Flex 3401 most of the time but still love the rotaries with the PE14 at the top of the list. Do they save time? I doubt it my full corrections run about the same time or longer than yours.
 
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