How bad is my paint?

This may sound like a dumb question, but is the car actually clean in these pictures? It looks dirty, so I'm having a hard time differentiating the dirt from the defects, and exactly what you're seeing in your pictures. Some are more obvious than others. I didn't think the black Mustangs came with a metallic paint, is that correct? What panel are you photographing that has all of the little white specs? If they're concave, I'd suspect rock chips as they look too big to be solvent pop.

I'd be interested to see the condition once the car is completely cleaned and clayed so we know more about what you're working with.

Yes the car is completely clean in these pics. Minus clay and wax. It was washed 5 mi before picture taking.
 
I cannot say I took the best care of the paint, clayed and waxed twice a year, but nothing like 105,205, sealant with a DA.


If you buff on just a side of the section that I pointed out that looks like scratches or cracks, here's the deal...

If the defects I see are scratches you should be able to buff them out and you'll see this by doing some testing using a tape-line with some painter's tape. Only buff on one side of the tape and then look to see if the straight line defects are going away.

If they go away that means they are topical scratches.

If they don't go away, this means these are cracks that run throughout the layer of clear paint and no amount of buffing will remove them. So just make the surface shiny and live with them.


What I see in this picture looks like cracks in the clear... that or they are scratches...

6e3y4y9u.jpg



:)
 
^^^ I see what your saying about the scratches , but what are the white dots in the paint? Some kind of chemical fallout ??
 
I don't think anyone would be able to tell you without laying hands on the car. Maybe wax stuck in some chemical etching, rock chips, alien laser testing spots...

Do an IPA rub down and see if they go away.
 
Time to quit typing and go out into the garage and start testing by doing a Test Spot...


How To Do a Test Spot


A Test Spot
TestSpot03.jpg



A Test Spot is where you take the products, pads, tools and your best technique and buff one small section, usually on a horizontal panel, to test out these things to see if they'll create the results you want, hope for and dream about in some cases.

If your choice of products, pads, tools and technique works to remove the defects and restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the same process to the rest of the vehicle and create the same results.

If your choice of products, pads, tools and your technique doesn't create the results you want, hope for and dream about then you can come to the forum and post what you're seeing and we'll do our best to help you tweak your technique, substitute different products, pads and/or tools to see you through to success.


Tape Line
It helps to place a piece of painter's tape on a horizontal surface, usually the hood or trunk lid but if you want to be more discreet you can use the roof. Then only work on one side of the tape line as this will make it very easy for you to see visual changes due to the distinct demarcation line between before and after results.


Tape-line using 3M Green Painter's Tape
TapeLine02.jpg



Before and after results along the demarcation line
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Test Spot performed by Nick Rutter @ Autogeek on a severely oxidized 2006 GMC Canyon
Here's a series of pictures taken by my co-worker Nick from a severely neglected truck he helped another co-worker Jason to buff out. For this project Nicked performed a Test Spot and the pictures really tell the story of what a Test Spot would look like that I've created this article using these pictures and Nick's permission.

The project vehicle is a severely neglected 2006 GMC Canyon with a heavily oxidized clear coat finish. In this case Nick used a one-step cleaner/wax applied by machine but you would buff the paint in the same way with whatever "system" you were planning on using.

If using a multiple step approach then you would use all the products and do all the steps to your Test Spot because this would be what you would do to the entire vehicle if the results from your Test Spot are good and you want to see what the true end-results are going to be. You can if you want skip applying the LSP or Last Step Product if you're happy with the last prep step as in most cases the application of your LSP will simply either make the paint look even better or maintain the results you've created.



Test Spot
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Hood Competed
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Truck completed
TestSpot06.jpg


TestSpot07.jpg


See the original write-up for this project here,

How To: Maximize Time with a Cleaner Wax/AIO


Test every detailing project that's new to you
If you've never worked on the paint on the project you're currently detailing, the before you buff out the entire car, take a moment to do a Test Spot.

I do a Test Spot on ever car I work on as this give me an idea of,
  • How the paint reacts to machine polishing
  • How the products and pads are working on this specific type of paint
  • A feel for if the paint is hard or soft or somewhere in-between
  • A very good idea as to how the paint will and thus how the vehicle will look after the project is finished.
Plus, if you're buffing out the car professionally you can share with your customer how awesome they're car is going to look after you get through with it.


Here's the results from some of the Test Spots we've done to some of the recent projects cars here at AGO


1959 Chevrolet El Camino - Extreme Makeover - Modeled by Christina

1959ElCamino008.jpg


1959ElCamino084.jpg





Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover



Before
1965Plymouth013.jpg



Test Spot
1965Plymouth025.jpg



After
1965Plymouth078.jpg




Wetsanding Test Spot
Even if you're going to wetsand or dampsand a vehicle it's just as important to do a Test Spot by sanding a section of paint and then testing to see what it's going to take to remove 100% of your sanding marks.


Test Spot
MorePeopleMoreBuffers003.jpg



Hood compounded
MorePeopleMoreBuffers004.jpg



After
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Test, test, test...
Test out the products you're planning on using over the entire vehicle to one small area first. Make sure you're getting the results you want, hope for and dream about before buffing out the entire project.


:)
 
If you buff on just a side of the section that I pointed out that looks like scratches or cracks, here's the deal...

If the defects I see are scratches you should be able to buff them out and you'll see this by doing some testing using a tape-line with some painter's tape. Only buff on one side of the tape and then look to see if the straight line defects are going away.

If they go away that means they are topical scratches.

If they don't go away, this means these are cracks that run throughout the layer of clear paint and no amount of buffing will remove them. So just make the surface shiny and live with them.


What I see in this picture looks like cracks in the clear... that or they are scratches...

6e3y4y9u.jpg



:)

Are these types of scratches something that wetsanding would help with or is he looking at needing to repaint? I ask because I have similar scratches on the hood of my car. I have priced out repainting, but I'm going to try some M105 first.
 
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