How do I know if I need a compound?

kovalchuk71

kovalchuk71

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How do I know if I need a compound or not (Megs 105)? My clear coat by MY standards, is in average shape. It is in need of a claying for sure and has many clear scratches (not remotely close to being felt by a fingernail).I see swirl marks as well. It hasnt been polished ever and is 10 years old. Im just afraid of using a compound and being too aggressive. The fact that Im on a budget as well doesnt give me the option of buying a bunch of products (i.e. swirl removers and compounds), so any help would be great.:dblthumb2:. Like my previous thread, Im trying to decide weather I need 105/205 or If I can get away with WG TSR/FG

Chris :buffing:
 
kovalchuk71 said:
How do I know if I need a compound or not (Megs 105)? My clear coat by MY standards, is in average shape. It is in need of a claying for sure and has many clear scratches (not remotely close to being felt by a fingernail).I see swirl marks as well. It hasnt been polished ever and is 10 years old. Im just afraid of using a compound and being too aggressive. The fact that Im on a budget as well doesnt give me the option of buying a bunch of products (i.e. swirl removers and compounds), so any help would be great.:dblthumb2:. Like my previous thread, Im trying to decide weather I need 105/205 or If I can get away with WG TSR/FG

Chris :buffing:
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No matter what you can't go wrong with the 105/205 combo.From what i'm reading it seems you have some issue's with you paint.Without some pictures it's really hard to judge what you need.But you ahould always start off with the least aggressive product first and them move up.Plus are you trying to do a one step correction or a two step??
 
Harleyguy said:
No matter what you can't go wrong with the 105/205 combo.From what i'm reading it seems you have some issue's with you paint.Without some pictures it's really hard to judge what you need.But you ahould always start off with the least aggressive product first and them move up.Plus are you trying to do a one step correction or a two step??
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Im want to go 3 step depending on the prices of the products I go with. I would like to ideally do either 105/205 with Menz 85rd or Wolfgang TSR/FG with Menz 85rd. I just don't know what I need (its a PC 7424)
 
kovalchuk71 said:
Im want to go 3 step depending on the prices of the products I go with. I would like to ideally do either 105/205 with Menz 85rd or Wolfgang TSR/FG with Menz 85rd. I just don't know what I need (its a PC 7424)
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With the pc I would pick up the Megs twins and 85rd. Plus with the Megs twins you get multiple polishes because the pad itself changes the character of the polish. So you actually get a lot more different cuts of polish with just the Megs twins for your money.
 
I would go with the 105/205 and some Ultrafina or Menz85rd all are really great products.Just need to take your time with the P.C. do a small area at a time and it will come out fine.
 
Harleyguy said:
I would go with the 105/205 and some Ultrafina or Menz85rd all are really great products.Just need to take your time with the P.C. do a small area at a time and it will come out fine.
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I think I hear an echo-lol:dblthumb2:
 
Harleyguy said:
I would go with the 105/205 and some Ultrafina or Menz85rd all are really great products.Just need to take your time with the P.C. do a small area at a time and it will come out fine.
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I have read a lot of issues with DA and 105. Is this true? Is there a better more "friendly" DA Compound or will I be OK with the 105?
 
kovalchuk71 said:
I have read a lot of issues with DA and 105. Is this true? Is there a better more "friendly" DA Compound or will I be OK with the 105?
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You will be fine with 105 and a da, it would be your best choice of a compound/polish with the da.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
You will be fine with 105 and a da, it would be your best choice of a compound/polish with the da.
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Ok thanks guys. Start out with White and move up if that doesnt work correct? Then go one down with the next step (205), and finish with 85rd and a blue pad (learned that from you Asphalt :props:)
 
kovalchuk71 said:
Ok thanks guys. Start out with White and move up if that doesnt work correct? Then go one down with the next step (205), and finish with 85rd and a blue pad (learned that from you Asphalt :props:)
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That would be a good approach but by the sounds of it you will need to start with 105, then once the defects are removed, use 205 to clean up and then 85rd to put the finishing touches on it.

Glad I can help, let me know if you need any help, just a pm away.
 
kovalchuk71 said:
Ok thanks guys. Start out with White and move up if that doesnt work correct? Then go one down with the next step (205), and finish with 85rd and a blue pad (learned that from you Asphalt :props:)
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Don't waste your time using M105 with a white pad. Go right to orange.
Here's a recent post from Kevin Brown (the guru of M105 / DA defect removal):

Kevin Brown said:
The "KBM", as it is referred to by many, is simply a process which helps the pad work more efficiently. In a nutshell...

For defect removal, this method:
• Demands a thorough priming of the pad using the appropriate liquid for the task at hand
• Recommends that ample pressure be used, allowing the machine's action to efficiently transfer through the fom pad material and onto the paint surface, while still allowing random rotation of the pad (if rotation is slow or non-existent, either back off on user-applied pressure or try a different pad)
• Requires that the pad be kept clean (using a combination of microfiber toweling and compressed air if available) to the point of monotony

For final polishing the user should:
• Thoroughly prime a fresh, clean pad, let it sit for 2-3 minutes
• Minimize the amount of product used by running the pad-face across a microfiber towel
• Apply a minimum amount of polish
• Use ample speed and pressure, which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate while the pad conforms to the panel being worked on
Click to expand...
 
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort. :)
 
kovalchuk71 said:
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort. :)
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You will be fine, it takes a lot to remove the clear coat.
 
David Fermani said:
Don't waste your time using M105 with a white pad. Go right to orange.
Here's a recent post from Kevin Brown (the guru of M105 / DA defect removal):
Click to expand...

Originally Posted by Kevin Brown
The "KBM", as it is referred to by many, is simply a process which helps the pad work more efficiently. In a nutshell...

For defect removal, this method:
• Demands a thorough priming of the pad using the appropriate liquid for the task at hand
• Recommends that ample pressure be used, allowing the machine's action to efficiently transfer through the fom pad material and onto the paint surface, while still allowing random rotation of the pad (if rotation is slow or non-existent, either back off on user-applied pressure or try a different pad)
• Requires that the pad be kept clean (using a combination of microfiber toweling and compressed air if available) to the point of monotony

For final polishing the user should:
• Thoroughly prime a fresh, clean pad, let it sit for 2-3 minutes
• Minimize the amount of product used by running the pad-face across a microfiber towel
• Apply a minimum amount of polish
• Use ample speed and pressure, which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate while the pad conforms to the panel being worked on


For defect removal, lots of pressure. How about moving the polisher across the paint, slow or fast?

For final polishing, KB mentions "ample speed and pressure". When he talks about speed, is he referring to the speed the polisher is set on, or the speed of moving the polisher across the surface? Also, he states, "which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate" With a Flex 3401 being forced rotation, that's not possible. Is this method only applicable with the non forced rotation DA's?
 
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kovalchuk71 said:
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort. :)
Click to expand...

Listen to what Asphalt Rocket tells you. After you get started if you have any questions, just PM him. He will glady help you out and get you going if you get stuck.:props:
 
kovalchuk71 said:
(its a PC 7424)
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Is that the PC 7424 or the PC7424XP

Lately I find people leaving off the XP and there's a big difference between the ability of the two polishers.

If you have the first generation Porter Cable, that is the PC 7424 then stick with smaller pads as it doesn't have as much ability to keep the larger pads rotating.



trichard said:
Listen to what Asphalt Rocket tells you. After you get started if you have any questions, just PM him. He will glady help you out and get you going if you get stuck.
Click to expand...

Of better yet, post your questions to the forum where everyone gets the benefit of reading the questions and answers.


:props:
 
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