How do I remove Type II water spots?

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bigez

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Ok, I found a great article on Type I water spots from Mike P., but is there a similar article on Type II spots? From my reading, I am pretty sure that's what I have. They are "pitted" in the paint. I tried the Wolfgang twins, and they didn't budge.

Do I need a rotary buffer instead of a DA buffer? Do you have to remove a SIGNIFICANT amount of clear coat? Is this even something I should try on an older car. Just so happens I have both an older car and a newer car (2007) I want to correct.
 
Yep...that's the article where I deteremined I have type II water spots. BUT, it doesn't go into detail on how to remove them.
 
When you were using the twins, what kind of pad were you using to apply everything?
 
Thanks for the quick response BobbyG, but I still do NOT see any info in there specifically about removing Type II spots. One sentence did say "IF you have type II instead of type I spots you will have to remove significant clear coat", or something to that effect but didn't go into detail.

The type I article is pretty good, but doesn't really address the type II spots.
 
RhetoricMixes said:
When you were using the twins, what kind of pad were you using to apply everything?
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I mostly used an orange LakeCounty CS pad for the swirl remover, and a white LC pad for the Final Polish...

I briefly tried a yellow pad, but got scared and went back to the orange pad. The yellow pad was an unknown brand, but didn't really "feel" or seem much different than the orange one.
 
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Maybe make more passes, how much pressure are you applying? You might have to move up to a more abrasive compound.

P.S. Depending on how bad they are, the best thing you might be able to do is just lessen them.
 
shoeless89 said:
Maybe make more passes, how much pressure are you applying? You might have to move up to a more abrasive compound.

P.S. Depending on how bad they are, the best thing you might be able to do is just lessen them.
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You might be right about this. I might only be able to lessen them. I have to guess I was applying 15-20lbs. of pressure. Even tried the scale to estimate. They might be in there forever. I noticed my family's cars have the SAME issue. It's like acid rain here in NC....I dunno? I might try it out on their cars, and it may be easier since they are newer and not as bad I don't think.
 
Welllll, I tried a surbuff pad (5.5) with some m105...these water spots are still there. I did remove most of the scratches, but the spots remain <sigh>.
 
bigez said:
Welllll, I tried a surbuff pad (5.5) with some m105...these water spots are still there. I did remove most of the scratches, but the spots remain <sigh>.
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Kinda weird that the scratches would disappear but not the spots. Im thinking they have possibly been etched further into the paint and maybe its something you might have to live with. Do you have any pics of the spots?
 
Removing Type II Water Spots is all about abrading the paint just like you were removing swirls and scratches.

That's what's so horrific about Type II water spots is that you have to remove a certain amount of the clear layer of paint in order to level the surface and thus make the craters or etching visually disappear.

So "yes", you will likely have to compound them with something aggressive. M105 or Ultimate Compound would be good but safe choices.


The ultimate goal is solve the root cause of the problem if possible. For example if the Type II Water Spots were caused by parking next to a lawn sprinkler, avoid parking next to the lawn sprinkler.

If the water spots are caused by the industrial pollution in the air where you live and then transmitted to you car via rain... well there's not much you can do about that and it's possible it could be an on-going issue.


I feel bad for anyone that discovers they have Type II Water Spots in the paint of their car. At least it's usually limited to the horizontal surfaces if it's caused by rain water.


:)
 
RhetoricMixes said:
Im thinking they have possibly been etched further into the paint and maybe its something you might have to live with.
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Kind of like RIDS... see the blue portion below...


Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring



RIDS
Random Isolated Deeper Scratches. These type of scratches come from normal wear & tear and there is no pattern to them.

RIDS are like Tracers in that they are deeper scratches that show up after the shallow scratches have first been removed through a machine or hand buffing process, usually with a compound or paint cleaner.

After the shallow swirls and scratches have been removed, any deeper scratches that remain will now show up like a sore thumb to your eyes because there are no longer thousands of lighter, more shallow scratches camouflaging them.
Click to expand...


And yes, if the etchings or craters are deep then it might be better to improve them than to try to completely remove them.


:(
 
RhetoricMixes said:
Kinda weird that the scratches would disappear but not the spots. Im thinking they have possibly been etched further into the paint and maybe its something you might have to live with. Do you have any pics of the spots?
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They basically look like this:
Except they are clear in the middle, and etched or sunken in on the outer ridges. But this pattern, and this shape. Only on the top of the car (roof and hood, and a few on trunk).
SprinklerSpotsS003.jpg


I'm scared to keep using the surbuff and M105 on them. Not sure if I should do some more section passes or not. Can I burn through with just a PC 7424 on speed 6?
 
bigez said:
They basically look like this:
Except they are kinda clear in the middle, and etched or sunken in on the outer ridges.
SprinklerSpotsS003.jpg


I'm scared to keep using the surbuff and M105 on them. Not sure if I should do some more section passes or not. Can I burn through with just a PC 7424 on speed 6?
Click to expand...

I read earlier that you have a yellow pad, why not give that a shot on a test spot and see how it does?
 
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