How do Meg's #95 and #105 differ

tuscarora dave

tuscarora dave

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Hi Mike, I hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.

I mainly use a rotary and edge 2k pads but sometimes a Cyclo.

My question is How will #95 and #105 differ using a rotary?

It seems that they both have the same rating on the scale on the label, and a signifficant price difference.

Is the difference just that one is forulated for a rotary and one is for both rotary and DA?

If there is more to it would you please explain the differences and the advantage of purchasing the #105 over the #95?

Thank you for your time and expertise, TD
 
Just wanted to put this back on the front line, Maybe there are not many users of Meg's stuff at AG's forum. I guess I'll post it at MOL. Thanks for any replies, TD
 
tuscarora dave said:
Just wanted to put this back on the front line, Maybe there are not many users of Meg's stuff at AG's forum. I guess I'll post it at MOL. Thanks for any replies, TD
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I ran across this thread on the Meg's forum as you have me curious as well.

#105 vs. #95 - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

Looks like Mike has a response on that thread as well.

Also there are a some that use Meg's on here. I had a couple people PM me recommending #105 & #205 or the Ultimate Compound with #205. They suggested starting out the Ultimate Compound was a little easier to use starting out but not quite as agressive as the #105.

P.S. The thread looks 2 years old. The only thing that doesn't look accurate is their latest #105 is DA approved.
 
Thank you frosty for the response, after reading what you linked from MOL I believe that #105 is what I am after. I normally use Poorboy's World products with terrific results but as stated in that thread from MOL, Sometimes I need a bigger hammer...

PB SSR 2.5 does a great job and I can normally break it down so I only need a quick pass with SSR1 before achieving a flawless very high gloss finish before LSP, but as a detailer in my first few years of the weekend bussiness I get a lot of crap to polish and PB products are not really suited for the initial pass on a polishing a turd.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Hi Mike, I hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.
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Yes, thank you. Most of the AutoGeek crew were back to work on Friday and Saturday, I was here both days working on the forum but by Saturday afternoon I had moved out to the Training Garage to test out the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher in and Extreme Demonstration and then moved onto the Thumbgun and buffed out my truck using the Thumbgun mounted to a DeWalt RB.

So sorry for the late reply.


tuscarora dave said:
I mainly use a rotary and edge 2k pads but sometimes a Cyclo.

My question is How will #95 and #105 differ using a rotary?

It seems that they both have the same rating on the scale on the label, and a significant price difference.

Is the difference just that one is formulated for a rotary and one is for both rotary and DA?

If there is more to it would you please explain the differences and the advantage of purchasing the #105 over the #95?
Click to expand...

First, when M105 and M95 were first introduced, I'll never forget how Jason Rose, the Manager for the Professional Line, a hands-on detailer by background and the main guy behind the development of these two products explained the difference and he said,

"M105 has all the bells and whistles"


Now that's very descriptive while being very vague at the same time and that comes back to the topic of proprietary information. Look, no major player in this industry is going to tell you what's inside the bottle, that's proprietary information, so at some level you just have to trust them when they tell you there's a difference and that's about all the information you're going to pry out of them.

Since I worked for Meguiar's when they were introduced and then after that for another year and a half here's what I can tell you.

M105 is a best of the best heavy cutting compound. It's designed to be an aggressive cutting compound that will remove down to #1200 grit sanding marks and still finish out up to 90% of the goal of a 100% swirl-free, flawless finish.

That's actually an amazing feat considering just a few years ago most compounds this aggressive could only get you to about 60% of the goal and to get the remaining 40% you would have to do at least 2 more steps and the time it would take would be much longer. With M105 you get very close to the goal and assuming you do your finish sanding with #2000 or higher then it's the initial cutting step is going to be faster.

M105 will finish out more swirl-free than M95 and with better gloss and clarity, which are your goals. That said, M95 is no slouch but won't get to as close to the goal of a 100% swirl-free, high gloss finish.

There's a certain demographic group of people that want the best finishing compound and for them M105 is the product, there's a certain demographic group that wants a fast cutting, brown compound and this group wants to feel the product and it needs to feel gritty, (whether it's gritting or not), or they won't buy it and it has to be on the lower end of the price range, for these people M95 is their best choice.

My personal take on it is this, I like how M105 cuts and finishes out but it needs a longer working time, or play time. It becomes to dry too fast for my personal preference and as such I'll usually use a wetting agent with it when using a wool pad with a rotary buffer. The recommended wetting agent is M34 because it's a Body Shop Safe spray detailer meaning it doesn't have a lot of the extra ingredients you'll find in Consumer style spray detailers that put more focus on gloss and slickness. It's these extra ingredients that can affect the performance of the compound so stick with a more virgin spray detailer if you're going to use a wetting agent for M105. I'll even use plain water if that's all that's available to me on location.


I would have to revisit M95 again to post for certain, but if memory serves me correctly it seemed to have a longer working time, also called buffing cycle or play time.


To take this reply a little longer....
M205 is the follow-up polish specifically recommended for M105 but can also be used for followup polishing after any Meguiar's compound.

Here's the skinning on M205,
M205 is a very light cutting polish and the reason for his is because if you use M105 correctly, you don't need an aggressive second step polish. The idea being that before using M205 you will have worked the panel with the M105 so that all that's remaining is light rotary buffer swirls and as such, the M205 with a foam pad should easily remove them. As a third step I would still follow the M205 RB step with the M205 with a DA style polisher. If you're using a small pad on the rotary buffer with the M205 you could conceivably move the same pad over to the DA polisher and use it for your 3rd step.

Above all... if you don't have a Pad Washer GET ONE!

The most important thing you do is WORK CLEAN throughout all step and this means washing your pads anytime they get any kind of residue build-up. You don't want to be trying to create a show car finish using a dirty pad. You can switch out to clean pads if you have them or invest in a pad washer and clean your pads as you work around the car.


GMC83 said:
95 is more "old" school.
Click to expand...

That is correct.

Now if I could only learn to write short copy like the above.


:)
 
Thanks Mike, finaly got answer for my question, gona get 105, but you know still think if getting 105 is worth it. i guess ill find out after i use 105
 
Here's a quote from Nick Chapman over on MOL.....

This weekend I got my first chance to try #95. There was never much talk about this product, so I just never bought any. Not sure why people have ignored #95, this is an absolutely amazing product! #105 is also a very amazing product, but here in Texas, #105 doesn't take too well to heat. It gums up and dusts really bad, creating frustration for myself. When the temps drop a bit, #105 is my "go to product", but in high heat, it stays put in the van.

So this weekend, I had a 2007 Trailblazer SS to work on. Completely black, and in horrible condition! 1.5 years of nothing but automatic car washes! This thing was swirled to no end! (I'll post up some pictures in the next couple of days)

First up to bat was #105 via rotary and a wool pad. Gummed up and dusted....next! Solo and a wool pad, worked well, but still needed more cut. This went on and on, going through every product I had available. Nothing was cutting it!

So I went back to the van and pulled out the #95 I had just bought. Figured nothing else worked, why not give it a try. Started out with rotary and a red Solo wool pad.....instant gratification!!!

Removed the swirls and scratches with ease! Never dried up! Work time is measured in DAYS! not passes! I couldn't believe it. Tried another spot, same result! Not really sure what they put into this product, but my personal opinion is, a gallon of #95 consists of 2 quarts of #105, and 2 quarts of 10w30! Yes, it's that oily!

The #95 and red Solo wool pad left some buffer swirls, had to get those out right? So I whipped out the black foam pad and attached it to the rotary. It worked extremely well! Much better than I ever expected, and a cleaner result than with #105 or Solo on a foam pad.

But, it still left a couple of very light buffer swirls in the paint. Most would have let it go out the door like that, but I wanted a little more....Lets give #95 a whirl on the DA and a yellow foam pad and see what happens......


HOLY SMOKES!!!
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This is the new #80.....on steroids!! Absolutely a FLAWLESS end result! And wet wet wet!!!

Normally, when you work a product with the DA and a yellow pad, you get little "ticks" in the paint. Not sure what the technical term used to describe these marks, but it looks like a feathering effect of sorts. I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking about
biggrin.gif


#95 left NONE of this! Even with a yellow foam pad! Never seen that before
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Tried another spot, same results! WOW! We're talking about FLAWLESS results!

Something that usually can only be achieved using a rotary to do final polishing! How is this possible?

Finished the Trailblazer off with some #26, and got it all delivered to the customer. He was blown away!


You guys really need to give this product a try. I know it states that #95 is rotary only, but in my opinion, this product smokes anything available for a DA application!

It produces incredibly flawless results, with very Little effort. Of course, if you have major swirls/scratches, it's best to remove them with a rotary first, then work on to the DA.

I'm going to do some more testing with this product, because you can't judge it just using it once. But if it performs half as well as it did here on this Trailblazer, then this will be a must have product in my van!

2 Thumbs Up Meguiar's!
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This product rocks!!



Cliff notes...

Bought #95, tried it, loved it, going to use it again
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Nick
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did anybody tried 95 vs menz 203? how is cutting compared to 2. i love 203 but it doesnt have very long working time
 
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