How do you polish along edges?

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I own a GG 6" DA with 5.5" LC CCS and CG hex foam pads. I use Meguiar's M105, Ultimate Compound, and M205. The setup works great for polishing flat surfaces, but I am struggling to polish edges that meet up with trim and window surfaces. The edges of the pads do not receive enough downward force to provide the necessary friction to remove the oxidation and water spots along these edges. For example, I can easily remove the water spots on the center of a side window, but not along the edges where the glass meets the trim. I have tried polishing with the foam pads by hand, using the Griot's Garage hand puck, but I have not seen a noticeable improvement after several minutes of polishing. What methods do you use to polish edges that butt up against trim?
 
This is where a rotary with 3-4" pads works great. The Rupes Mini works awesome on surgical buffing. Because of the beveled edge of the Rupes pads you can easily see the edge of the pad and can buff right up to the trim.
 
I got some 4" pads and backing plates for these type of areas.
 
Rsurfer said:
This is where a rotary with 3-4" pads works great. The Rupes Mini works awesome on surgical buffing. Because of the beveled edge of the Rupes pads you can easily see the edge of the pad and can buff right up to the trim.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
Me personally, I don't use 4" pads too much. I use 3" pads all the time though. But, I think some small pad set up is a necessity. Even with 3" pads, there will be edges on trim to tape occasionally.

If you want a pad with a 4" face - the Rupes pads are awesome with any DA. I haven't found a 3" pad I really like yet - I did just pick up some 3M ones - but have yet to use them. I'm not expecting much.
 
Does you backing plate go all the way to the edge of the Velcro backing on your pads?
 
If you don't have a rotary and small pad you can always use polish on a terry for glass or MF towel for paint and use your fingers to clean along the edges.
 
I could be a smart ass and simply say very carefully.....:laughing:...but I won't!

I generally tape off a sharp edge to protect it. I'll also switch to a pad with a sharp edge rather than a generous round edge. This allows me to better control of the pads placement.

When using a rotary, always buff off the edge...
 
The cheap fix for small areas seems to be the Meguiars drill mounted 3" DA. But you have to have a variable speed, preferably with a speed lock on the switch for best performance. Most drills only lock at max.
 
sethr said:
The cheap fix for small areas seems to be the Meguiars drill mounted 3" DA. But you have to have a variable speed, preferably with a speed lock on the switch for best performance. Most drills only lock at max.
Click to expand...

Have you used one of these? Is so, is it hard to control?
 
Actually, I bought one before the PC. I got tired of doing such a small area at a time, thus the PC.

And, yes, I use it near mirrors, my trunk spoiler, near door handles, the narrow area above the door up to the hood molding, etc. You just have to pay attention to speeds, depending on what you are doing. I use it for Swirl-X and polishes.

For final coatings, I just use a foam or MF pad
 
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