How do you remove opticoat 2.0 i screwed up the application :(

You can just use a finishing polish on the hood to level out the high spots, no need to remove everything!
 
That video is awesome rasky, it explains so much and it's short which us perfect. Thanks for the info bud!
 
That is a great video of an Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard application.

However I still think there are a couple of tips that new users to OC/OG may want to consider.

If you are doing a bonnet such as Rasky did, a safety measure would be to prop the bonnet open so there is no risk of accidently applying the product to the adjacent panels, keeping with the concept of one panel at a time. Obviously the same applies to doors, boot lids etc. What you don’t want to do is accidently apply the product to a panel that you weren’t intending to, because invariably if you don’t notice it, that is where you will leave a dab of product and of course it will flash off without being buffed off, resulting in a high spot or stain.

I’ve always been concerned with not applying enough product so I’ve developed a variation of Rasky’s technique where after applying the product to the pad, I then dab the pad over a number of spots on the panel which then leaves quite visible droplets of product on the panel. For example on the bonnet of that BMW in Rasky’s video I would divide it into two sections the same as Rasky did. I’d then apply the pad to say 6 equally placed spots on half that bonnet leaving behind the drops of product I referred to. Then it is just a matter of moving the pad around, starting from around the middle of the panel picking up the 6 different deposits of product. You definitely want to avoid starting from the edge of a panel. Work from the middle to the edges. If you decide you would like a heavier coating repeat the process after you have spread the original amounts. There is no real problem with the product flashing; you actually want it to flash, so that you can see where you haven’t covered the surface evenly. Once you are satisfied with the coverage then just buff off using very light pressure with a short nap MF. I’ve not even changed my technique when I moved from using OC to OG.

For quite a few applications, I persisted with the idea of only using the applicator to buff off, in the belief that if I used a MF, I would be removing product. However it didn’t take all that long to come to the conclusion that it is easier to over apply the product and then use the MF to even things out. The change in technique resulted in the same amount of product being used anyway. For an average sized car like that BMW, I still only use about 5-6 cc’s as I only do the paint, no wheels, glass or trim.
 
Hello all- first post, have been a long time reader and have appreciated the tips I've found at this forum.

I have a question on opti-coat. I applied it yesterday evening to my black nissan crew cab, first did an IPA wipe down to clean off paint, truck is brand new and I had initially applied a coat of Prima Hydro sealant. IPA took off the Prima no prob.

I definitely messed up my opti application- I obviously put it on too heavy and ended up with a lot of hazing streaks (used the entire 20cc for the crew cab). However, I even used it on the plastic dash / door panels / center console and other interior plastic trim so that is one reason I used so much product.

It was my "noob" mistake as I thought I was applying thin, and it looked like it flashed clear, but I made the mistake of not using a flashlight to really "see" if it left a haze as I went. I also did not use a MF to light wipe each panel as I went, I used the applicator to gently knock down any heavy areas that did not initially flash clear. I assumed that if it flashed clear, it was actually clear. it is not.

After I was done, I went back around and used a flashlight and saw hazing everywhere. The hood came out the best and only had a couple of small haze areas. most hazing was on side panels. I used a MF towel to buff off haze and I seem to have gotten most of it out. The opti was not tacky at this point (about an hour had passed) but I had to rub quite hard to get haze off. That was my only option at that point since I was out of opti and I did not want to let it cure with the haze.

Should I re-apply another round of opti, or just hit the surface with some 3M fine-cut or polish compound on any remaining haze?

To anyone else new using the opti, it needs to definitely go on thinner than you think and you definitely need a flashlight to check each panel as you go. I made the mistake of getting my "instructions" from a youtube video showing an Opti guy applying the product to panels and not doing a light buff or checking the panel with a flashlight as he went. I guess that is not the right method.

My interior plastic trim looks like a million dollars with the opti on it, especially the dash. the truck looks "wet" on the outside, but if you use a flashlight up to some areas of the paint you can see a tiny bit of haze remaining in areas.
 
Here is the "instruction" video I was referring to. If this person does work for Optimum, them perhaps this should be reviewed and removed if inaccurate. OptiCoatApp.AVI - YouTube

Note there is nothing stated about wiping with a MF cloth as you go, using a flashlight to check, potential for hazing, etc. The video in this forum thread would definitely seem to be the right way to do it.
 
Here is the "instruction" video I was referring to. If this person does work for Optimum, them perhaps this should be reviewed and removed if inaccurate. OptiCoatApp.AVI - YouTube

Note there is nothing stated about wiping with a MF cloth as you go, using a flashlight to check, potential for hazing, etc. The video in this forum thread would definitely seem to be the right way to do it.


There are many ways to skin a cat, or so the saying goes. ;)

I think Chris made an excellent video showing a process that works for him and I made one that works well for me. Each user will have different experiences with the coating as there are so many factors come into play that can change how it works.

I do know that it has been clearly stated many times that OC is NOT for use on interiors. As far as the paint goes just give it a light polish with Optimum Polish II or Finish to level out any high spots and re-coat if needed, using less product this time around.

Rasky
 
There are many ways to skin a cat, or so the saying goes. ;)

I think Chris made an excellent video showing a process that works for him and I made one that works well for me. Each user will have different experiences with the coating as there are so many factors come into play that can change how it works.

I do know that it has been clearly stated many times that OC is NOT for use on interiors. As far as the paint goes just give it a light polish with Optimum Polish II or Finish to level out any high spots and re-coat if needed, using less product this time around.

Rasky

Thank you Rasky- the interior plastic is literally the same as some of the exterior trim plastic, which (from what I've read, the little I know) is ok to apply to. what potential adverse effects are there from using it on the interior? It looks incredible.

TIA
 
Thank you Rasky- the interior plastic is literally the same as some of the exterior trim plastic, which (from what I've read, the little I know) is ok to apply to. what potential adverse effects are there from using it on the interior? It looks incredible.

TIA

Not sure of any adverse effects other than there is no way to remove it (unlike paint which can be polished). Maybe Chris can chime in but I just know that Opt states not to use it on the interior. ;)
 
Not sure of any adverse effects other than there is no way to remove it (unlike paint which can be polished). Maybe Chris can chime in but I just know that Opt states not to use it on the interior. ;)

I found a website that had some very detailed question/answer on using Opti, along with a lot of videos showing testing / results etc, and the question of using it on interior came up. The response was during a Q&A session with Dr. G of Optimum. A significant amount of product testing on this page. Review & Extreme Testing: Opti-Coat 2.0 and CQuartz - Live2Detail

"5.-Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be used on leather, vinyl, and interior plastics?

Absolutely not. Opti-Coat 2.0 is designed for use on exterior automotive surfaces only. It cross-links and forms a hard clear film therefore it should not be applied to flexible substrates including leather, vinyl, soft tops, tire, etc.
"

This makes perfect sense. Given that, I see no reason why it cannot be used on hard plastic trim and painted hard plastic trim, whether interior or exterior. Of course one would not want to use it on flexible materials such as rubber, synthetic or real leather, vinyl, soft plastics, etc. I only applied it to the hard plastic trims and my painted center dash console area, which is hard plastic topped with some type of interior semigloss factory paint.

If it is "permanent" and the show-quality shine I presently have on my hard plastic interior trims stays this way, well, that is something I can learn to live with :D
 
If I were doing this job I would use optimum finish (or polish II on high spots). You do not have to totally remove OC to recoat. Why use something like 105 which will create marring. If you can remove the high spots with Opt Finish then wash with water then you are all set to reapply.

BTW I have use OC on my interior wood panels with really nice effect. I polished the same way I did my paint then applied OC.

Sorry to repeat -I guess I missed Chris' comments
 
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I definitely messed up my opti application- I obviously put it on too heavy and ended up with a lot of hazing streaks (used the entire 20cc for the crew cab). However, I even used it on the plastic dash / door panels / center console and other interior plastic trim so that is one reason I used so much product.

It was my "noob" mistake as I thought I was applying thin, and it looked like it flashed clear, but I made the mistake of not using a flashlight to really "see" if it left a haze as I went. I also did not use a MF to light wipe each panel as I went, I used the applicator to gently knock down any heavy areas that did not initially flash clear. I assumed that if it flashed clear, it was actually clear. it is not.

After I was done, I went back around and used a flashlight and saw hazing everywhere. The hood came out the best and only had a couple of small haze areas. most hazing was on side panels. I used a MF towel to buff off haze and I seem to have gotten most of it out. The opti was not tacky at this point (about an hour had passed) but I had to rub quite hard to get haze off. That was my only option at that point since I was out of opti and I did not want to let it cure with the haze.

Should I re-apply another round of opti, or just hit the surface with some 3M fine-cut or polish compound on any remaining haze?

To anyone else new using the opti, it needs to definitely go on thinner than you think and you definitely need a flashlight to check each panel as you go. I made the mistake of getting my "instructions" from a youtube video showing an Opti guy applying the product to panels and not doing a light buff or checking the panel with a flashlight as he went.

I shot the video as a supplement to the directions, not in place of the directions. I had plenty of light and didn't need a flashlight as I was working outside. You will note that I was checking the bumper from every angel before moving to the next area. My preferred method is to not use a microfiber unless necessary as touching the coating as it drys or soon after results in hazing just like getting stroke marks in paint if you keep touching it. One point I always emphasize is that you are wiping in on, not rubbing it in. You don't want to keep going over it and you certainly don't want to rub it hard to try and remove it or the haze. You'd be better off to let it harden and use a light polish to repair it. As long as you don't get too aggressive, you shouldn't need to reapply as you're only trying to polish off the excess.

Here is the "instruction" video I was referring to. If this person does work for Optimum, them perhaps this should be reviewed and removed if inaccurate. OptiCoatApp.AVI - YouTube

Note there is nothing stated about wiping with a MF cloth as you go, using a flashlight to check, potential for hazing, etc. The video in this forum thread would definitely seem to be the right way to do it.

Optimum's Permanent Paint Coating is here!

Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints to form a permanent film. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. Like a regular clear coat, Opti Coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.

DIRECTIONS
1. Remove defects to your satisfaction
2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.
3. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
4. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer using several directions for even coverage.
5. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting within 5-10 minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
6. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure)any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.

NOTE: Our new version can be layered.


This is printed on the label, note directions 4-5-6. I'm sorry the video wasnt helpful, but as I said earlier: the video was a supplement to the directions and never intended to replace them. Direction #3 should have let you know you were using too much before you ran out. This is a perfect example of user error. With a product of this nature, it's best to "read the directions", know what to look for, and maybe even start with a single panel before slopping 20 cc's on a single vehicle and rubbing it as it cured.

A last comment about using a microfiber to wipe off "excess". I don't usually have to use a microfiber because I don't apply "excess". If you use only a few drops per panel as directed, with practice you won't need to wipe off excess either. The more is better mentality is counterproductive with many Optimum products, especially the coating. You can contact me [email protected] if you need assistance or further directions on fixing your application.

Also, regarding your application to interior surfaces. We do not recommend this product for use on interior surfaces. If you had good results, most likely the surfaces inside that particular vehicle are hard. This is not typical so any application to interiors is at your own risk. We are developing an interior coating, but that's exactly why it's taking so long...multiple surfaces at various flexibilities.
 
Hello all- first post, have been a long time reader and have appreciated the tips I've found at this forum.

I have a question on opti-coat. I applied it yesterday evening to my black nissan crew .

My interior plastic trim looks like a million dollars with the opti on it, especially the dash. the truck looks "wet" on the outside, but if you use a flashlight up to some areas of the paint you can see a tiny bit of haze remaining in areas.

Dude, why in the world would you put this stuff on your interior? It is an exterior coating. Did you read the directions?
 
You will need to use a polish/compound with mechanical abrasives to remoce OC. Obviously start with the least aggressive method. As far as application, you can wipe the area with a MF about 30-45 seconds after application to remove high spots with no ill effects IME. Keep you work areas small( I usually work no bigger than a 16 X 16 inch section) and inspect each section for high spots.

Thanks for the reply Jim,I unserstand that I can't remove the Opti Coat by Chemical means and it will have to be abrraded off. I was hoping for more specific information as to what product to use with my Flex 3401 Sorry if I was not clear.Stu
Jim agrees with Jim!
A white pad and a medium polish like Optimum Polish II will do. Try by hand first so as not to remove all!
 
If I were doing this job I would use optimum finish (or polish II on high spots). You do not have to totally remove OC to recoat. Why use something like 105 which will create marring. If you can remove the high spots with Opt Finish then wash with water then you are all set to reapply.

BTW I have use OC on my interior wood panels with really nice effect. I polished the same way I did my paint then applied OC.

Sorry to repeat -I guess I missed Chris' comments

Thank you for your input. I have appreciated reading your response and Rasky's.
 
Dude, why in the world would you put this stuff on your interior? It is an exterior coating. Did you read the directions?

I did, but you obviously did not read all of my posts. Stop and read first before replying. And don't forget to also call dougaross "dude" for using OC on some interior trim as well.
 
I shot the video as a supplement to the directions, not in place of the directions. I had plenty of light and didn't need a flashlight as I was working outside. You will note that I was checking the bumper from every angel before moving to the next area. My preferred method is to not use a microfiber unless necessary as touching the coating as it drys or soon after results in hazing just like getting stroke marks in paint if you keep touching it. One point I always emphasize is that you are wiping in on, not rubbing it in. You don't want to keep going over it and you certainly don't want to rub it hard to try and remove it or the haze. You'd be better off to let it harden and use a light polish to repair it. As long as you don't get too aggressive, you shouldn't need to reapply as you're only trying to polish off the excess.


This is printed on the label, note directions 4-5-6. I'm sorry the video wasnt helpful, but as I said earlier: the video was a supplement to the directions and never intended to replace them. Direction #3 should have let you know you were using too much before you ran out. This is a perfect example of user error. With a product of this nature, it's best to "read the directions", know what to look for, and maybe even start with a single panel before slopping 20 cc's on a single vehicle and rubbing it as it cured.

A last comment about using a microfiber to wipe off "excess". I don't usually have to use a microfiber because I don't apply "excess". If you use only a few drops per panel as directed, with practice you won't need to wipe off excess either. The more is better mentality is counterproductive with many Optimum products, especially the coating. You can contact me [email protected] if you need assistance or further directions on fixing your application.

Also, regarding your application to interior surfaces. We do not recommend this product for use on interior surfaces. If you had good results, most likely the surfaces inside that particular vehicle are hard. This is not typical so any application to interiors is at your own risk. We are developing an interior coating, but that's exactly why it's taking so long...multiple surfaces at various flexibilities.


Sounds like you have a bit of a chip on your shoulder there Chris. My post here was for help, not to have a person from Optimum make me some sort of example in a public forum.

Since you are from optimum, you should know better than to post incorrect or incomplete informational videos. Take my previous comment as constructive criticism and use that to maybe make a better video, instead of reacting negatively and defensive. How is anyone else supposed to read your mind that your vid is "supplemental"? If you post "partial" information, then say so in the material so anyone watching it will know.

I read the directions, I watched your vid as a supposed experienced authority. I did my truck in very good light but not direct full sun. Bottom line is you cannot see hazing / streaks without putting a bright light source directly on the paint. It does NOT say this on the instructions or in your video. I had equally as good lighting as in your video, mirrored your application technique, and checked all angles like you did. I thought all was well until I put a bright LED onto it.

So, instead of coming off all sassy with your 'slopping on 20cc's' like I'm some kind of idiot, why don't you just offer to help with some experienced advice on how to remedy. I was quite excited about using your product, and even though I put forth reasonable intelligent effort to apply it properly, I made a self-admitted mistake and I obviously over applied it being unfamiliar with just how little it takes.

Now that I have experienced how someone actually from the company reacts to someone asking for help when faced with a tiny bit of criticism, I will indeed stay far away from your products. You can now use me as a "perfect example" of a lost customer.
 
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