How important is the IPA wipedown???

Venom93corba

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Well I've got my first detail coming on my car (black 2010 Escalade) this week. I'm just wondering how important the IPA wipe down was. This was my order.

Wash with Dawn

Iron X

Clay

Flex 3401 - LC orange pad - BF SRC compound

LC white pad - BF GE polish

By hand or LC red pad - BF Black Ice
 
Think of it this way if you didn't wipe down and clean off your polishing oil then your sealant/wax will stick to the oil instead of your paint. So imagine how long that'll last before you'll have to re-seal/wax again.
 
I guess if I was going to do all that you are going to do, why wouldn`t you do a IPA wipedown. It takes little time to be sure you have a clean base to work from. What strength would you use?
 
I was thinking about this exact question yesterday after I clayed my mustang. Mothers reccomends its instant detailer as a lubricant, which I used and wiped off thoroughly. I don't have any alcohol on me but I guess I could pick some up at Walgreens the next go around as a precaution for next time.

I think it's more of a "why not" scenario. In the end, peace of mind has no price tag.

I plan to correct the paint within the next few months and I clayed and waxed due to some body shop stuff along with wax failure but I'll certainly be doing an IPA wipe down after my corrections are made.

What sort of alcohol do most buy? Does it get diluted or is pure alcohol okay?
 
Well IPA should be diluted between 15-30%. I always buy 99% IPA and dilute it. I can't find it, but Mike Philips wrote an awesome thread on how to dilute IPA. Really it is as easy as measuring out the weight of ipa to water on a scale and mixing.

I dont use ipa as a wipe down, I use eraser instead. The slight surfactant (qd spray) adds a light lube to avoid the grabby feeling IPA gives.
 
I've read about the Car Pro Eraser. Is that ready to go straight out the bottle? This is just my first time and I'd hate to put an Ipa together (I know absolutely nothing about IPA's) and mess something up, ha ha. Yeah I'm pretty nervous. I'll be using my new Flex 3401 for the first time as well (first time using a DA, I've always done it by hand) so my anxiety level is pretty high.
 
IMO IPA wipedown is a waste of time (regular LSPs) and a chance to induce towel marks on dark paints. While the whole "polishing oil" theory sounds convincing, it doesn't pan out in real life to me.

Also if your going to be using BF GEP, its a paint cleaner and will clean your paint of any "oils" left behind from previous compounds or abrasive polishes. GEP leaves behind a glaze and your paint ready for LSP, why would you want to wipe that off?.

All those products are made by Blackfire and are meant to work together synergistically. If you check the directions, I don't think you will see "IPA wipedown" listed as a recommended step.
 
I don't know why Bob, that kind of seemed like the consensus. Just trying to get all the previous stuff off. Will the Iron X do that for me?
 
Here's the links to my two related articles...


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


I think in one of them I state that the normal procedure is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations so if the manufacturer states the paint must be chemically stripped so their protection ingredients can bond or adhere to the paint then follow their directions. Note that most wax manufacturers don't state this, it's a forum phenomina...


In my IPA thread if you read far enough into it I go into how wiping with IPA or most products meant to strip paint can cause marring from the wiping process and that's because chemical strippers don't lubricate well as that's not their nature, (no lubricating oils, which would defeat their purpose).

I point out that about the only time you will see this marring is,

A: If you look closely for it.

B: If you're working on a black car because black shows defects best.​


So people working on light colored cars that aren't looking for it don't see it.


The above two articles are jam-packed full of information that if you read through them you'll be able to make up you're own mind as to what kind of process to use when detailing your own cars or customer's cars.

Also, the link to my article list is at the bottom of every post I make which means the link to my article list is pretty easy to find with 35,400+ posts.

:)
 
Thanks Mike. So what would YOUR recommendation be, since it's a black car?
 
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