How long does it take you?

I just bought a flex as well.. kind of nervous about using it as well. I'm going to have to test it out on my wife's car first. not jacking up my ride lol

Awesome! That's exactly what I did. Now my wife's ride looks better than mine. I was nervous about the flex rotary because of the burnt paint trepidation. I used an RO for many years and felt it was time to step up. The two polishers ARE completely different. You can hold a RO in one hand if you want, not so with a rotary. It goes where it wants to and you have to keep it in control. However the results IMO are far superior when the two are compared and in less time to boot. Until you get the hang of it, expect splatter everywhere. I'm still picking polish out of my wife's SUV, but I got it down towards the end.

I'm sure you know about keeping the rotary moving at all times to prevent burning. That is true, but you also have to keep it moving over a broader area at all times too. My wife's car had a little area that needed more attention and I focused on the small area while keeping the polisher moving. I started to smell something and realized I something was burning. You won’t believe how hot a rotary can get the paint. I pretty sure I just thinned the clear coat since the paint and area look beautiful, but it scared the heck out of me.

Good luck and I hope my experience helps in some way.
 
The Time Factor could be very scary to the average user.
But great results can be obtained with a simple plan to execute little
by little.
Divide the work on simple 5 steps.

Wash ( A good bath )

Prep ( Clay )

Polish ( Compound and Polish )

Protect ( Seal and Wax )

Maintain ( To help preserve your work )

Do each step even if you can only do it days apart from each other.
Once you complete the cycle your car will have improved in clarity and overall apperiance.

1 to 3 hours on each step will do it!!!

Remember waxing alone wont get you the results you really want. Work with the 5 steps on agenda and you will enjoy the better look of your car.
 
Awesome! That's exactly what I did. Now my wife's ride looks better than mine. I was nervous about the flex rotary because of the burnt paint trepidation. I used an RO for many years and felt it was time to step up. The two polishers ARE completely different. You can hold a RO in one hand if you want, not so with a rotary. It goes where it wants to and you have to keep it in control. However the results IMO are far superior when the two are compared and in less time to boot. Until you get the hang of it, expect splatter everywhere. I'm still picking polish out of my wife's SUV, but I got it down towards the end.

I'm sure you know about keeping the rotary moving at all times to prevent burning. That is true, but you also have to keep it moving over a broader area at all times too. My wife's car had a little area that needed more attention and I focused on the small area while keeping the polisher moving. I started to smell something and realized I something was burning. You won’t believe how hot a rotary can get the paint. I pretty sure I just thinned the clear coat since the paint and area look beautiful, but it scared the heck out of me.

Good luck and I hope my experience helps in some way.


Thanks for your feedback.. crap, now I'm more nervous.. surely don't know anything about burning. Hell, I hardly know how to use the thing. My car is new, my wife's is not. I figure that makes her a prime test candidate lol.

How do you know if you mess up the clear coat and what can be applied to protect any clear coat damage or clear coat in general. I always apply a sealant, but I'm not sure if that takes the place of clear coat in the place it is damaged.. damn i have so much to learn. detailing by hand seems so much less nerve racking to me lol.
 
The Time Factor could be very scary to the average user.
But great results can be obtained with a simple plan to execute little
by little.
Divide the work on simple 5 steps.

Wash ( A good bath )

Prep ( Clay )

Polish ( Compound and Polish )

Protect ( Seal and Wax )

Maintain ( To help preserve your work )

Do each step even if you can only do it days apart from each other.
Once you complete the cycle your car will have improved in clarity and overall apperiance.

1 to 3 hours on each step will do it!!!

Remember waxing alone wont get you the results you really want. Work with the 5 steps on agenda and you will enjoy the better look of your car.
:goodpost:If you drive it, wash it again before polishing.
 
A Subaru will take you more towards the 10-12 hour range. The paint is 90-95% of the time very soft. You will need to take your time with the finishing part. I used the following and it came out very nice. Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover with Lake country Hydro-Tech foam pads. I used all 3 (cyan, tangerine, crimson) because my paint was horrible.

If your paint is in horrible shape start with the Cyan and work down to the Tangerine. If its not that bad just go over it with the Tangerine and finish it with the Crimson and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. I just did a black 2010 STI and a member on here helped me out because I started off with Megs 105 and 205 and man the marring was bad.

Good Luck!
 
Thanks for your feedback.. crap, now I'm more nervous.. surely don't know anything about burning. Hell, I hardly know how to use the thing. My car is new, my wife's is not. I figure that makes her a prime test candidate lol.

How do you know if you mess up the clear coat and what can be applied to protect any clear coat damage or clear coat in general. I always apply a sealant, but I'm not sure if that takes the place of clear coat in the place it is damaged.. damn i have so much to learn. detailing by hand seems so much less nerve racking to me lol.

Don't be nervous. It is not that bad or hard.....just different. The main thing to remember is keep the polisher moving at all times over a 2 x 2 area. Watch edges too or tape them up.

Watch Mike's video on rotary buffers. I think he has a great tip on trying it on your washer and dryer first. Probably a good idea just to learn the feel.

Do not burn through your clear coat! It cannot be replaced with sealant. Think of it as a permanent lacquer (what they were in the good old days). However, they are relatively thick and I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm not trying to scare you and I think you'll love the results once you get the hang of it. Especially if you're doing it by hand!
 
Don't be nervous. It is not that bad or hard.....just different. The main thing to remember is keep the polisher moving at all times over a 2 x 2 area. Watch edges too or tape them up.

Watch Mike's video on rotary buffers. I think he has a great tip on trying it on your washer and dryer first. Probably a good idea just to learn the feel.

Do not burn through your clear coat! It cannot be replaced with sealant. Think of it as a permanent lacquer (what they were in the good old days). However, they are relatively thick and I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm not trying to scare you and I think you'll love the results once you get the hang of it. Especially if you're doing it by hand!

lol, thanks. The burning through the clear coat thing was what made me nervous especially after just reading that in Mike's book. As long as you keep moving you won't burnt through? I'm wondering if I should have purchased a DA lol. I'm sure I will love it it better than doing it by hand. damn arm almost fell off the last time.


edit: seems like it takes a lot to burn though if it's even possible with the flex.. >I found some other post which were reassuring as well..

Bobby G
"If you're afraid of generating too much heat you'll only have that issue when using a rotary polisher. While the Flex has a mechanical forced rotation it does not rotate or oscillate fast enough to generate heat. "

Mike Phillips
"The Flex 3401 doesn't generate heat to the surface like a rotary buffer does, this by itself makes it safer as far as burning through the paint or striking through the paint.

One thing I always tell people apprehensive about using the "safe" machine polishers when it comes to the topic of causing damage or specifically burning through the paint is that if you burn through the paint using a DA Polisher, Flex 3401 or Cyclo, you probably would have went through the paint working by hand.

In other words, at least part of the problem is thin paint to start with.


If you're working on a brand new car or even a newer car and no Caveman Detailer has hacked it up before you get your hands on it, then there's really nothing to worry about as long as you use common sense."
 
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