How long should it take to detail a car???

[runrun411]

How long should it take to from beginning to end detail an average sized car?

 

[RTexasF]

Re: How long should it take???

There are just too many factors to give a solid answer to that. It could be five hours to three days depending on what is involved and the number of steps needed both inside and out.

 

[Mazda.Mark]

Re: How long should it take???

There are just too many factors to give a solid answer to that. It could be five hours to three days depending on what is involved and the number of steps needed both inside and out.

+1

Maybe state your intentions and others can give their feedback on how long it takes them to replicate what you plan to do.

As ironic as it sounds even some members here are more "detailed" than others.

Plus others have a lot of experience which enables them to be more efficient.

:dblthumb2:

 

[lawrenceSA]

I am interested in the responses to this too but appreciate the vagueness of the initial question limits a ...well...detailed response.

If I may....

I only detail from home on the weekends and only do 1 car a weekend with a DA.... Most of them are:

Wheels off, clean, remove tar, iron-x, polish barrels, wax/seal barrels and faces
Clean arches and brake calipers, dress arches
Engine bay clean, dress plastics
Cleaned door jambs, emblems, seams etc
snow foam
2bm wash and dry
Remove tar from paint
Iron-x paint and windows
Clay

For most cars I do, the time frame to get the above done is pretty similar, size of car notwithstanding

Then when it comes to paint correction, paint condition and type, and what the targeted correction level is will determine how many hours are spent... This is the big variable in my modus operandi

I simply cannot afford to give anymore time to this stage of the process as there are only so many hours in the weekend, and I am a 1 man operation which my clients understand. I therefore factor this in to my thinking and the discussion we have upfront like what the goal of the detail is and what it will cost. If for example the client wanted me to spend more time on the paint correction stage to achieve a closer to perfection result, he may have to sacrifice the many hours it takes me to do a full wheel detail. Or split the detail over 2 weekends....

So once correction is done it is usually something like

BL/V7/collinite 845
Then dress exterior trim
Dress tires
Vacuum interior
Clean and dress dash
If leather, then apply a cleaner/conditioner/protector AIO type product
Clean windows
Coat front window with water repellent
Polish exhaust tips

In total it usually takes me somewhere between 18 and 30 hours depending on how many hours are spending on a actual paint correction


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Pureshine]

Re: How long should it take???

Ya there is never a set time I always give my customers an estimated time never give a set time. Because you will shoot your self in the foot if you do.
Todd

 

[ihaveacamaro]

Re: How long should it take???

The better you get, the longer it takes!

 

[BobbyG]

Re: How long should it take???

As a general rule I tell people 10 to 12 hours to do the following. This is off the top of my head but is basically what I do under "normal" conditions...

Important - Having a plan of attack that you're used to makes efficient use of the time and most important and the need to NOT REDO something, this will kill you!

• Keep in mind there's work ethic involved and no slacking off except a lunch break of about 20 minutes or so.
• Time is money but so is a "quality job"...NOT PERFECTION!

Interior - I like to clean the interior first. Everything is cleaned and treated including the door jambs.

• Cleaning an interior correctly including the seats, carpet, floor mats, dash, trim, and glass.
• If heavily stained or soiled then the time naturally increases.
• Apply a plastic and vinyl treatment to trim and dash.
• Clean glass
• Once the interior is complete the doors are shut so I don't recontaminate it, I hate having to redo something.

Engine Compartment - A thorough cleaning, rinse, dry, then I apply a dressing to everything to give it that new look.

Trunk - Vacuum and organize.

Tires & Wheels - I'll clean each wheel, barrel, tire and wheel well. These are done before the body so that harsh chemicals and water do not come in contact with a freshly waxed finish. Generally I do not remove the wheels.

Exterior Wash - Thoroughly wash the exterior paying particular attention to those smaller areas. Wash & rinse from the top down. Use small brushes to clean and decontaminate trim, emblems etc.

Decontaminate - I give the finish a once over with a product like CarPro Iron-X

Clay - Clay each panel thoroughly before moving on to the next.

Polish - I'm not going to go int this step by step but this is where this belongs in my process. This is where I'll use a paint cleaner or 1-step product like Meguiar's D151 or Duragloss #501.

• I use both a rotary and dual action polisher.
• I have machines set up with different size pads so switching is quick and easy. Remember what I said about having a plan and preparedness?
• I'm not correcting the finish, only cleaning it with a 1-step. Correcting finish defects will, within reason, add an additional 5 to 8 hours minimum.
• Remember; were talking about the average customer and a car driven daily so he's not paying for a 2 to 3 step paint correction or show car finish..

Wash & Dry - I rewash and dry to remove any splatter that may have resulted from the polish phase. This gets rid of these tiny spots while they're still soft.

• Open hood, trunk, and doors to wipe any water that might have accumulated.
• Use a blower to remove the droplets of water quickly and easily.

Paint Prep - Once I've buffed out the finish I clean each panel with a product like Griot's Paint Prep or CarPro Eraser.

• Whether or not everyone does this, I like to do it to ensure the finish is really clean so that the sealant bonds well which maximizes its durability. It doesn't take very long and I feel it's worth it.

Sealant & Wax - Whatever protective coat you choose to use belongs here.

Glass - Clean all glass surfaces and ensure they're streak free.

Trim - Use a quality trim treatment that give plastics and rubber components that new rich look including wiper arms.

Tires & Wheels - Apply a treatment to these and the wheels wells.

Inspection - Go over the car inch by inch to ensure you haven't missed anything and start from the top down. The glass must be crystal clear and is generally the first thing the customer sees once they sit in the car and drive it away.

This why detailing someone's car correctly isn't quick or inexpensive....you get what you pay for... again, this is ballpark under normal conditions and not an exact science.

 

[Mazda.Mark]

Re: How long should it take???

Bobby always gives great posts.

Just a small addition, just because it BOTHERS me to no end.

Roll down the windows a smidge to get that "dirt line" left in the seals.

 

[RZJZA80]

Re: How long should it take???

It can take an hour, or it can take 40+, I've had it both ways.

 

[Crazy Amos]

Re: How long should it take???

Another thing that always takes time away from the actual detail is needing to clean their clothes, gym bags, books, garbage or whatever out before you start.

This irritated me to the point that I started charging $25 if I had to pull their junk out of the vehicle before I could start detailing. Not only did it add time to the job but it then became my responsibilty to not lose the things that I removed from the vehicle....like $10 in quarters in the cup holders for instance.

My job is to detail your car, not clean your garbage.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

Re: How long should it take???

As a general rule I tell people 10 to 12 hours to do the following. This is off the top of my head but is basically what I do under "normal" conditions...

Important - Having a plan of attack that you're used to makes efficient use of the time and most important and the need to NOT REDO something, this will kill you!

• Keep in mind there's work ethic involved and no slacking off except a lunch break of about 20 minutes or so.
• Time is money but so is a "quality job"...NOT PERFECTION!

Interior - I like to clean the interior first. Everything is cleaned and treated including the door jambs.

• Cleaning an interior correctly including the seats, carpet, floor mats, dash, trim, and glass.
• If heavily stained or soiled then the time naturally increases.
• Apply a plastic and vinyl treatment to trim and dash.
• Clean glass
• Once the interior is complete the doors are shut so I don't recontaminate it, I hate having to redo something.

Engine Compartment - A thorough cleaning, rinse, dry, then I apply a dressing to everything to give it that new look.

Trunk - Vacuum and organize.

Tires & Wheels - I'll clean each wheel, barrel, tire and wheel well. These are done before the body so that harsh chemicals and water do not come in contact with a freshly waxed finish. Generally I do not remove the wheels.

Exterior Wash - Thoroughly wash the exterior paying particular attention to those smaller areas. Wash & rinse from the top down. Use small brushes to clean and decontaminate trim, emblems etc.

Decontaminate - I give the finish a once over with a product like CarPro Iron-X

Clay - Clay each panel thoroughly before moving on to the next.

Polish - I'm not going to go int this step by step but this is where this belongs in my process. This is where I'll use a paint cleaner or 1-step product like Meguiar's D151 or Duragloss #501.

• I use both a rotary and dual action polisher.
• I have machines set up with different size pads so switching is quick and easy. Remember what I said about having a plan and preparedness?
• I'm not correcting the finish, only cleaning it with a 1-step. Correcting finish defects will, within reason, add an additional 5 to 8 hours minimum.
• Remember; were talking about the average customer and a car driven daily so he's not paying for a 2 to 3 step paint correction or show car finish..

Wash & Dry - I rewash and dry to remove any splatter that may have resulted from the polish phase. This gets rid of these tiny spots while they're still soft.

• Open hood, trunk, and doors to wipe any water that might have accumulated.
• Use a blower to remove the droplets of water quickly and easily.

Paint Prep - Once I've buffed out the finish I clean each panel with a product like Griot's Paint Prep or CarPro Eraser.

• Whether or not everyone does this, I like to do it to ensure the finish is really clean so that the sealant bonds well which maximizes its durability. It doesn't take very long and I feel it's worth it.

Sealant & Wax - Whatever protective coat you choose to use belongs here.

Glass - Clean all glass surfaces and ensure they're streak free.

Trim - Use a quality trim treatment that give plastics and rubber components that new rich look including wiper arms.

Tires & Wheels - Apply a treatment to these and the wheels wells.

Inspection - Go over the car inch by inch to ensure you haven't missed anything and start from the top down. The glass must be crystal clear and is generally the first thing the customer sees once they sit in the car and drive it away.

This why detailing someone's car correctly isn't quick or inexpensive....you get what you pay for... again, this is ballpark under normal conditions and not an exact science.

Bobby, great post!

One thing that I do differently is actually dress the exterior trim PRIOR to polishing. That way, if any polish sticks to the trim, it is just unbelievably easy to remove.

 

[BobbyG]

Re: How long should it take???

Bobby, great post!

One thing that I do differently is actually dress the exterior trim PRIOR to polishing. That way, if any polish sticks to the trim, it is just unbelievably easy to remove.

Hmmmm, never thought if this...Great Idea!! rops:

 

[Johny B]

Re: How long should it take???

As a general rule I tell people 10 to 12 hours to do the following. This is off the top of my head but is basically what I do under "normal" conditions...

Important - Having a plan of attack that you're used to makes efficient use of the time and most important and the need to NOT REDO something, this will kill you!

• Keep in mind there's work ethic involved and no slacking off except a lunch break of about 20 minutes or so.
• Time is money but so is a "quality job"...NOT PERFECTION!

Interior - I like to clean the interior first. Everything is cleaned and treated including the door jambs.

• Cleaning an interior correctly including the seats, carpet, floor mats, dash, trim, and glass.
• If heavily stained or soiled then the time naturally increases.
• Apply a plastic and vinyl treatment to trim and dash.
• Clean glass
• Once the interior is complete the doors are shut so I don't recontaminate it, I hate having to redo something.

Engine Compartment - A thorough cleaning, rinse, dry, then I apply a dressing to everything to give it that new look.

Trunk - Vacuum and organize.

Tires & Wheels - I'll clean each wheel, barrel, tire and wheel well. These are done before the body so that harsh chemicals and water do not come in contact with a freshly waxed finish. Generally I do not remove the wheels.

Exterior Wash - Thoroughly wash the exterior paying particular attention to those smaller areas. Wash & rinse from the top down. Use small brushes to clean and decontaminate trim, emblems etc.

Decontaminate - I give the finish a once over with a product like CarPro Iron-X

Clay - Clay each panel thoroughly before moving on to the next.

Polish - I'm not going to go int this step by step but this is where this belongs in my process. This is where I'll use a paint cleaner or 1-step product like Meguiar's D151 or Duragloss #501.

• I use both a rotary and dual action polisher.
• I have machines set up with different size pads so switching is quick and easy. Remember what I said about having a plan and preparedness?
• I'm not correcting the finish, only cleaning it with a 1-step. Correcting finish defects will, within reason, add an additional 5 to 8 hours minimum.
• Remember; were talking about the average customer and a car driven daily so he's not paying for a 2 to 3 step paint correction or show car finish..

Wash & Dry - I rewash and dry to remove any splatter that may have resulted from the polish phase. This gets rid of these tiny spots while they're still soft.

• Open hood, trunk, and doors to wipe any water that might have accumulated.
• Use a blower to remove the droplets of water quickly and easily.

Paint Prep - Once I've buffed out the finish I clean each panel with a product like Griot's Paint Prep or CarPro Eraser.

• Whether or not everyone does this, I like to do it to ensure the finish is really clean so that the sealant bonds well which maximizes its durability. It doesn't take very long and I feel it's worth it.

Sealant & Wax - Whatever protective coat you choose to use belongs here.

Glass - Clean all glass surfaces and ensure they're streak free.

Trim - Use a quality trim treatment that give plastics and rubber components that new rich look including wiper arms.

Tires & Wheels - Apply a treatment to these and the wheels wells.

Inspection - Go over the car inch by inch to ensure you haven't missed anything and start from the top down. The glass must be crystal clear and is generally the first thing the customer sees once they sit in the car and drive it away.

This why detailing someone's car correctly isn't quick or inexpensive....you get what you pay for... again, this is ballpark under normal conditions and not an exact science.

+10

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Re: How long should it take???

Bobby, great post!

One thing that I do differently is actually dress the exterior trim PRIOR to polishing. That way, if any polish sticks to the trim, it is just unbelievably easy to remove.

I've actually experienced the opposite. That is it seems that some dressings help splatter to stick and even penetrate better onto or into the trim or at a minimum offer no benefit, that is compound and polish splatter stick just as good with or without the dressing. Just my experience but I also detest cars with exterior black plastic trim.


Plus, if you apply dressing to trim before you doing any taping-off the tape won't stick to the trim.

Of course, personal preference for things like this topic.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Re: How long should it take???

It can take an hour, or it can take 40+, I've had it both ways.

I'd agree with this time frame. It all just depends upon the job.

One time in my life I was roped into helping a student of mine that was just starting up his business by taking on all the used car detailing work for a local dealership. Together we detailed one car in under an hour and that "type" of detailing left such a bad taste in my mouth that I had to let him know that was the first car and the last car I would be helping him with.

I think I documented the time on the below detail jobs,


Christmas Detail - Ferrari P4 - Move over Rudolf

How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits

New Menzerna FG 400 - One-Step Show Car Makeover

1951 Mercury - Black Lacquer Paint - Extreme Makeover

I didn't do a write-up for this Corvette but outside only was under 3 hours, this was a quickie detail for me...

I didn't do a write-up for this Ferrari Testarossa but under 6 hours for exterior only...

Didn't do a write-up for this 1987 Ferrari 328 GTS but it was under 6 hours for paint only. Most of these were using the Flex 3401...

Here's a really nice Pro Stock Camaro I buffed out recently and coated with EXO that was under 6 hours...

None of these I washed, just wiped down and then clayed or Speedy Prep Towel or Nanoskin Autoscrub pad to decontaminate and then follow basic procedures and don't goof-off. I never take breaks once I start, just work through till the final wipe.


I have a 2008 Rolls Royce Phantom Drophead Coupe scheduled for this weekend. As long as it falls through I'll document my time on it. It's a full detail, inside and out.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

Re: How long should it take???

I've actually experienced the opposite. That is it seems that some dressings help splatter to stick and even penetrate better onto or into the trim or at a minimum offer no benefit, that is compound and polish splatter stick just as good with or without the dressing. Just my experience but I also detest cars with exterior black plastic trim.


Plus, if you apply dressing to trim before you doing any taping-off the tape won't stick to the trim.

Of course, personal preference for things like this topic.


:xyxthumbs:

Mike, as you said, it could depend on what product used. The product I use for this specific purpose is not sold by Autogeek but one of its claims is that it stops polishes compounds and waxes from binding.

 

[RZJZA80]

Re: How long should it take???

I've actually experienced the opposite. That is it seems that some dressings help splatter to stick and even penetrate better onto or into the trim or at a minimum offer no benefit, that is compound and polish splatter stick just as good with or without the dressing. Just my experience but I also detest cars with exterior black plastic trim.


Plus, if you apply dressing to trim before you doing any taping-off the tape won't stick to the trim.

Of course, personal preference for things like this topic.


:xyxthumbs:

Exactly correct on all counts, dressing trims prior to polishing is a waste of time, you'll just have to dress the trim again afterwards.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

Re: How long should it take???

Exactly correct on all counts, dressing trims prior to polishing is a waste of time, you'll just have to dress the trim again afterwards.

In my experience it is not, a damp microfiber with water wipedown and all polish is removed and trim is looking nice

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

But back on topic...


How long any detailing project lasts includes a lot of variables...

One thing for sure, with the abrasive technology available today in compounds, polishes and even cleaner/waxes, the pads and the tools, you can turn out really good work without sacrificing quality faster than ever before.


I actually prefer to do a quickly detail than a full-blown multi-step correction job. In most cases the customer's expectations are lower and in most cases it's easy to surpass their expectations.

Win/Win for all...


In the old days, we're talking back in the 1980's and 1990's, I was about 10-12 hours for a full blown, exterior detail only starting and finishing out with only the rotary buffer. Pads choices were a LOT more limited as were compounds and polishes.


That was my average though...


I did Sniper by Troy Trepanier in about 6 hours using only a PC, it was filled with holograms when I started it...

This is a 1972 Dino Ferrari I hand sanded down and then buffed out. It was painted with single stage red paint, you can tell by all the sanding slurry on the ground surrounding the body.

I did this in about 12- 13 hours, arrived early, finished before dark then drove home. This was in Portland, Oregon probably around 1990 or so...

 

[CM8 6MT]

I actually prefer to do a quickly detail than a full-blown multi-step correction job. In most cases the customer's expectations are lower and in most cases it's easy to surpass their expectations.

Win/Win for all...

100% Agree