How long to wait before waxing a brand new car?

[MattPersman]

Yes I would use an iron remover. Some cars come from other countries. At a minimum they are on sitting next to a factory in a lot getting fall out till it's on the transporter then it gets fall out while driving down the highway and then sitting on the dealer lot etc. doesn't hurt to start fresh as possible.


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[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Brand new car off the assembly line 1 week ago(prep work?)

Hello everyone,i am new to this site

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

and using optimum sealant gloss syringe.
I ordered the opti gloss and opti prep for removing dealer wax, 2017 honda cr-v white in color. I did order proper micro fiber towels and such applicators too.

Good start.

when looking at the car with great lighting inch by inch i cannot see any swirls or marks of any kind at all.

That's a testimony to Honda and everyone involved with getting the car from the end of the assembly line to your driveway.

My question is should i just

(1 )wash with no rinse was and shine

(2)use opti prep,and

(3) use opti seal.

If the paint passes the baggie test then the answer is "yes" you could do the above.

The Baggie Test as seen on Competition Ready TV with AJ and Mike Phillips

i didn't know if i need any other prep if it looks perfect hard to believe but true. car was built 9 days ago. do i need to polish if it looks great.

I am new to site and sealants,thank you very much ahead of time!!

Theoretically you should not have to do anything, no mechanical decontamination, (detailing clay), no mechanical decontamination, (products like Iron X), and no polishing, (products like Optimum Polish II). That's in a perfect world. Problem is the perfect world doesn't normally exisist but I'm am impressed that from your description the paint is as nice as it is.


A few of our forum members added their suggestions and I agree that before going to the time, energy and expense to apply quality paint coating, it wouldn't hurt to check for iron contamination by using an iron remover.


Read the two comments below from rlmccarty2000 and Matt.

Even with a brand new car I would still use Iron-X and clay before coating my car.

Even if it looks perfect there may be contamination you can't see. Try the baggie test (put your hand in a plastic baggie and rub it on the paint) if it feels perfectly smooth you may be alright to prep and coat.

I still would decon my paint to be sure it was clean before coating.

Yes I would use an iron remover. Some cars come from other countries. At a minimum they are on sitting next to a factory in a lot getting fall out till it's on the transporter then it gets fall out while driving down the highway and then sitting on the dealer lot etc. doesn't hurt to start fresh as possible.

For you or anyone else reading this thread into the future that may not be familiar with iron removers, what they are, what they do and why to use them... I wrote an article on this topic...

I use the analogy of car insurance

What is Iron X and why should I use it?


Since your Honda is white in color, it will be very apparent if there is some form of iron contamination as you will see the paint look as though it's bleeding....


Iron X - Bleeding like a stuck pig

Hope the above helps...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hey rimccarty, if I use the baggie test and it's smooth, but feel tiny bumps under the baggie, I imagine a clay bar is in order?

I'm not rlmccarty2000 but if you feel bumps on the paint AFTER washing the car this means whatever these contaminants are they have formed a strong enough bond to the paint that they are not washing off. So to remove them you need to use a mechanical means of decontamination.

Would a polishing with a DA polisher fix that? If so, I'll have my installer do it, as I don't own one yet.

My experience is machine or even hand polishing will remove "some" contaminants.

The problem is a FOAM pad on an orbital polisher will tend to GLIDE over stubborn contaminants instead of kicking them off. Normally people would use one of these,

Detailing clay
Nanoskin towel
Nanoskin wash mitt
Nanoskin pad

My rule of thumb is if I'm going to use any of the above to mechanically decontaminate paint then I'm ALREADY planning on doing at least one machine polishing step to ensure no marring of the paint is leftover from the contamination step. But that's just me.

Didn't think I'd need to Iron-X a brand new car, but maybe yes?

Read my article here,

What is Iron X and why should I use it?

Maybe have him decon the areas to be Xpeled?

Couldn't hurt and if the paint is contaminated then it would help.

The thing is, like I explain in the above article, you don't know if the paint is contaminated or not until you test.

Then like I say in the article, like the car insurance analogy, you want to test by using an iron or fallout remover BUT you DON'T want to see it work. I explain this in the article.

Wish I knew about this forum before I took delivery, and not 2 months after.

Enough info to make your head spin!

Definitely. And the difference between getting your information here on a real forum instead of on Facebook is the quality of information and the ability to format the information to make it a lot easier to digest. Plus you can find it again easily unlike FB.

Heck this thread is 4 years old and it's easily found, brought back to life and valuable information is exchanged and the end-result is people are helped. Try to find a thread on Facebook that does all this that's 4 years old.


Here's the time stamp from the first post on page 1 of this thread.

12-16-2013, 02:54 PM

 

[h8dirtycars]

I'm not rlmccarty2000 but if you feel bumps on the paint AFTER washing the car this means whatever these contaminants are they have formed a strong enough bond to the paint that they are not washing off. So to remove them you need to use a mechanical means of decontamination.


No you most certainly are not.

Thanks so much for taking the time to personally answer my question. And what I said is in fact true, my heads spinning! It's difficult to take care of your car the way that's correct, especially here in the northeast. And especially when you're new to this.

So, while I have your ear, so to speak, a question please about rinse less washing. I bought Chemical Guys EcoSmart, and Wolfgang Uber Rinse less wash. After driving here the next couple of days, the car will be caked. No self serv car washes with pressure washers near me, so was going to soak small areas of the car with the EcoSmart from a spray bottle to really loosen the crud, then use the Wolfgang's from a bucket for a rinse less. Should be enough lubricity with that method to prevent scratches, yes? Just remembering what you wrote about about blasting crud off first.

 

[eyebanger]

tHANK YOU VERY MUCH TO ALL THAT RESPONDED,I HAVE ALL THE CLEANING PRODUCTS READY FOR THE WEEKEND,i WILL USE THEM ON MY 2 YEAY OLD CAR IF NOT NEEDED ON THE NEW ONE,THANKS AGAIN !!!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

tHANK YOU VERY MUCH TO ALL THAT RESPONDED,

I HAVE ALL THE CLEANING PRODUCTS READY FOR THE WEEKEND,

i WILL USE THEM ON MY 2 YEAY OLD CAR IF NOT NEEDED ON THE NEW ONE,THANKS AGAIN !!!

Keep us updated as to the results.

Also, remember to turn off the CAPS LOCK KEY when typing - it makes it look like you're yelling. (even when you're not)



:dblthumb2:

 

[h8dirtycars]

Another question, please.
If I use the Iron-X do I have to use a foam gun or can I use a rinse less wash since it's still pretty cold up here?