How many hours do detail ? Santa Fe...

DaC

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Hi guys, a cousin of mine asked me to detail and opti-coat his car.
He has a Hyundai Santa Fe...... question is.... how many time do you think a car like that will take to detail ?
By detail I mean:
Wash / Clay / Compound / Polish / Wash / IPA / Opti-Coat
Using a meg's g110v2.....


My guess would be around 32 hours... is it too far off ?

I've never detailed a car of that size, so I have no idea....
A honda civic for a 2-step polish with wdgps as lsp takes me around 16-18 hours to complete...
 
Everyone details at different speeds. I detail as a full time job so I'm sure I can detail a car a lot faster then a hobbyist. So who knows?
 
Everyone details at different speeds. I detail as a full time job so I'm sure I can detail a car a lot faster then a hobbyist. So who knows?

I'm quite sure you can... that's why I'm asking how much time the average guy around here would take.....
I assume you must use a rotary, right ? How long would you take to do a job like that ?
 
It would probably take me around 15-20 hours depending on paint work condition.
 
I actually wouldnt use a rotary on a Hyundai. Their paint is really soft so I would use a orbital to prevent swirls. Also I wouldn't consider myself an average detailer. The average person on here doesn't do this as a full time business. That being said if you are just doing the outside and those products it would probably take me 7-8 hours if the paint isn't horrible. Worst cad scenario about 10-11 hours.
 
I actually wouldnt use a rotary on a Hyundai. Their paint is really soft so I would use a orbital to prevent swirls. Also I wouldn't consider myself an average detailer. The average person on here doesn't do this as a full time business. That being said if you are just doing the outside and those products it would probably take me 7-8 hours if the paint isn't horrible. Worst cad scenario about 10-11 hours.

Yeah I know, it didn't called you average, I'm average... you are a pro. "=]

But 7-8 hours.... that's quite fast.... could you explain me how you do it ?
I mean... how many passes while compounding and polishing, how do you break your work and sections... ? This kind of thing....
 
No I know you weren't lol.

Doing this everyday is like any job. You get in a rhythm that you repeat constantly and after a while you become very fast at your job while getting quality work. For example a mechanic can do an engine swap a lot faster then I can.
Hyundai paint is very easy to deal with. Especially if it's a newer one. So it doesn't take as much effort as a Chevy or a BMW would take due to the soft clear. I use megs d300 on all japanesse/Korean cars. It works extremely well with correcting paint. For heavily scratched paint you can add some m105 with the d300 and get great results. Best part about using that is you can jump right into a finishing polish.

As far as method goes, follow directions on the container of the product. A lot of people fail to do that because they think they are better then that and they don't need directions. (not saying you are that person) the producers of the product spend countless hours finding the best results with the product so they know what works best.

Like I said that may seem fast to some but you also have to keep in mind I have all my tools of the trade at my finger tips at my shop. So that helps speed as well. Just remember don't rush perfection if you don't have to. Take your time and make the car owner happy.
 
At my job they give us 4 1/2 hours for a full detail and 2.2 hours for new car prep. On the full details it sucks sometimes because we can get trade-ins that are in terrible shape ,and then expect show room finish. There are other types of details with different times but I don't understand how we cant get more time on something that I feel will take at least 6 hours to look half way decent.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
No I know you weren't lol.

Doing this everyday is like any job. You get in a rhythm that you repeat constantly and after a while you become very fast at your job while getting quality work. For example a mechanic can do an engine swap a lot faster then I can.
Hyundai paint is very easy to deal with. Especially if it's a newer one. So it doesn't take as much effort as a Chevy or a BMW would take due to the soft clear. I use megs d300 on all japanesse/Korean cars. It works extremely well with correcting paint. For heavily scratched paint you can add some m105 with the d300 and get great results. Best part about using that is you can jump right into a finishing polish.

As far as method goes, follow directions on the container of the product. A lot of people fail to do that because they think they are better then that and they don't need directions. (not saying you are that person) the producers of the product spend countless hours finding the best results with the product so they know what works best.

Like I said that may seem fast to some but you also have to keep in mind I have all my tools of the trade at my finger tips at my shop. So that helps speed as well. Just remember don't rush perfection if you don't have to. Take your time and make the car owner happy.

Thanks for the tips!
You touched on a vital issue... as I don't have any fixed place to work, I'm always carrying my stuff on my car, which is not prepared for that... so it's about 2 hours to put everything in and take everything out... plus "on the wild" I always have to walk from side to side to grab something or to put it away safely...

What would you use to finish ?
M205 or PO85RD ? which pad ?
 
I usually finish with either 85rd or wolfs w1-pn. If its a lighter car sometimes I finish with blacklight. I personally don't like m205. But everyone likes different stuff. I also finish with a blue pad at times a black one.
 
It's hard to say how long it could take you without fully knowing much details about the current condition of the paint. Is it heavily swirled, badly oxidized... what color too? If its been sitting outside neglected for a good bit of time you may need to hand glaze it too. This will re-nourish the paint before doing any extensive compounding otherwise the paint may just suck up any oils in the compound or polish and be a major pita to fully work with to achieve full correction and to wipe off. How many other vehicles have you detailed?

I detail professionally and did about 30 cars as a one man show last week. Time wise for me as a pro I'd estimate about 10-12 hours overall (break down below). For you as a novice and not having a routine and knowing your dance steps around the vehicle I'd say 20- 25 hours. If you are new to compounds & polishes and need to still experiment with products and pad combinations then it could be 25-28 hrs or so.

A few tips:

1) After the initial wash to save time you dont really have to worry about drying. The claying will remove any contaminants from the water and the compound/polish will remove any water spots. Just be sure to blow out any water from the crevices.

2) Dress the trim after you wash & before compounding; anything that gets on the trim will be easier to wipe off.

3) Don't wash the windows or chrome until after you are done with the polishing; otherwise you may have to keep re-cleaning to remove polish splatter.

4) If you're just opening the doors to aid in reaching high areas it may be best to wait until near the end to detail interior so as to avoid getting it dirty again from your feet shuffling around (shoe covers used in medical industry or at paint stores are nice to have to prevent ruining a nicely detailed interior)

5) After polishing don't forget to pop open the hood and trunk to remove the polish dust from the hood & trunk rails



Time broken down:
Full scale traditional wash with windows in & out, vacuum interior, tires cleaned and dressed- about 1.5 hrs
(Rinseless wash- 45 min- 1 hr)

Clay- 45-60 minutes

Taping: If your going that intense I would highly recommend taping off the trim and other pieces you dont want stained from polish & wax. This takes me about 30-45 min.

Hand Glaze- 1 hr- 1.5 hr

Compounding: 3-4 hrs
If the paint is easy to work with & not too damaged I can do the sides, top, and rear in about 1 hr & the hood & front in about 30 min. If its heavily damaged then there's no easy way to really say how long it could take to fully correct until a test spot is done. By doing just a small spot at first this will help you dial in the correct pad, and compound choice before going over the entire vehicle only to realize later on that you could have finished quicker via a different method. For a true level finish prior to opticoating Id probably say about 3-4 hrs+ would suffice considering how easy the paint on these vehicles is to work with.

Light Polish step- 45 min

2nd Wash- 30- 45 min

IPA- 15- 20 min

Interior detailed with steam cleaner & carpets shampoo- 1.5 hr

Reg Wax ( Applied & wiped): Hand 45 min Machine 30 min
Never used opticoat so dont know how long it takes to apply Maybe 1 hr 1.5 hr? I do know its a bit more involved than regular wax.


Good luck!
 
It's hard to say how long it could take you without fully knowing much details about the current condition of the paint. Is it heavily swirled, badly oxidized... what color too? If its been sitting outside neglected for a good bit of time you may need to hand glaze it too. This will re-nourish the paint before doing any extensive compounding otherwise the paint may just suck up any oils in the compound or polish and be a major pita to fully work with to achieve full correction and to wipe off. How many other vehicles have you detailed?

I detail professionally and did about 30 cars as a one man show last week. Time wise for me as a pro I'd estimate about 10-12 hours overall (break down below). For you as a novice and not having a routine and knowing your dance steps around the vehicle I'd say 20- 25 hours. If you are new to compounds & polishes and need to still experiment with products and pad combinations then it could be 25-28 hrs or so.

A few tips:

1) After the initial wash to save time you dont really have to worry about drying. The claying will remove any contaminants from the water and the compound/polish will remove any water spots. Just be sure to blow out any water from the crevices.

2) Dress the trim after you wash & before compounding; anything that gets on the trim will be easier to wipe off.

3) Don't wash the windows or chrome until after you are done with the polishing; otherwise you may have to keep re-cleaning to remove polish splatter.

4) If you're just opening the doors to aid in reaching high areas it may be best to wait until near the end to detail interior so as to avoid getting it dirty again from your feet shuffling around (shoe covers used in medical industry or at paint stores are nice to have to prevent ruining a nicely detailed interior)

5) After polishing don't forget to pop open the hood and trunk to remove the polish dust from the hood & trunk rails



Time broken down:
Full scale traditional wash with windows in & out, vacuum interior, tires cleaned and dressed- about 1.5 hrs
(Rinseless wash- 45 min- 1 hr)

Clay- 45-60 minutes

Taping: If your going that intense I would highly recommend taping off the trim and other pieces you dont want stained from polish & wax. This takes me about 30-45 min.

Hand Glaze- 1 hr- 1.5 hr

Compounding: 3-4 hrs
If the paint is easy to work with & not too damaged I can do the sides, top, and rear in about 1 hr & the hood & front in about 30 min. If its heavily damaged then there's no easy way to really say how long it could take to fully correct until a test spot is done. By doing just a small spot at first this will help you dial in the correct pad, and compound choice before going over the entire vehicle only to realize later on that you could have finished quicker via a different method. For a true level finish prior to opticoating Id probably say about 3-4 hrs+ would suffice considering how easy the paint on these vehicles is to work with.

Light Polish step- 45 min

2nd Wash- 30- 45 min

IPA- 15- 20 min

Interior detailed with steam cleaner & carpets shampoo- 1.5 hr

Reg Wax ( Applied & wiped): Hand 45 min Machine 30 min
Never used opticoat so dont know how long it takes to apply Maybe 1 hr 1.5 hr? I do know its a bit more involved than regular wax.


Good luck!

Awesome post. This really helps out the amateur detailer! :props:
 
I usually finish with either 85rd or wolfs w1-pn. If its a lighter car sometimes I finish with blacklight. I personally don't like m205. But everyone likes different stuff. I also finish with a blue pad at times a black one.

Nice! Sounds like what I usually do here.... all of our cars seems to have really soft paint, po85rd can remove a bunch of swrils on cars that I've already worked on.

I'm also not a huge fan from M205 and M105... I think they gum up too much.... and also I find PO85RD much easier to remove... again... maybe it's just me and my technique....

I've used PO85RD on a black pad, but never on a blue one.... will it really do something on a blue pad ?
 
It's hard to say how long it could take you without fully knowing much details about the current condition of the paint. Is it heavily swirled, badly oxidized... what color too? If its been sitting outside neglected for a good bit of time you may need to hand glaze it too. This will re-nourish the paint before doing any extensive compounding otherwise the paint may just suck up any oils in the compound or polish and be a major pita to fully work with to achieve full correction and to wipe off. How many other vehicles have you detailed?

I detail professionally and did about 30 cars as a one man show last week. Time wise for me as a pro I'd estimate about 10-12 hours overall (break down below). For you as a novice and not having a routine and knowing your dance steps around the vehicle I'd say 20- 25 hours. If you are new to compounds & polishes and need to still experiment with products and pad combinations then it could be 25-28 hrs or so.

A few tips:

1) After the initial wash to save time you dont really have to worry about drying. The claying will remove any contaminants from the water and the compound/polish will remove any water spots. Just be sure to blow out any water from the crevices.

2) Dress the trim after you wash & before compounding; anything that gets on the trim will be easier to wipe off.

3) Don't wash the windows or chrome until after you are done with the polishing; otherwise you may have to keep re-cleaning to remove polish splatter.

4) If you're just opening the doors to aid in reaching high areas it may be best to wait until near the end to detail interior so as to avoid getting it dirty again from your feet shuffling around (shoe covers used in medical industry or at paint stores are nice to have to prevent ruining a nicely detailed interior)

5) After polishing don't forget to pop open the hood and trunk to remove the polish dust from the hood & trunk rails



Time broken down:
Full scale traditional wash with windows in & out, vacuum interior, tires cleaned and dressed- about 1.5 hrs
(Rinseless wash- 45 min- 1 hr)

Clay- 45-60 minutes

Taping: If your going that intense I would highly recommend taping off the trim and other pieces you dont want stained from polish & wax. This takes me about 30-45 min.

Hand Glaze- 1 hr- 1.5 hr

Compounding: 3-4 hrs
If the paint is easy to work with & not too damaged I can do the sides, top, and rear in about 1 hr & the hood & front in about 30 min. If its heavily damaged then there's no easy way to really say how long it could take to fully correct until a test spot is done. By doing just a small spot at first this will help you dial in the correct pad, and compound choice before going over the entire vehicle only to realize later on that you could have finished quicker via a different method. For a true level finish prior to opticoating Id probably say about 3-4 hrs+ would suffice considering how easy the paint on these vehicles is to work with.

Light Polish step- 45 min

2nd Wash- 30- 45 min

IPA- 15- 20 min

Interior detailed with steam cleaner & carpets shampoo- 1.5 hr

Reg Wax ( Applied & wiped): Hand 45 min Machine 30 min
Never used opticoat so dont know how long it takes to apply Maybe 1 hr 1.5 hr? I do know its a bit more involved than regular wax.


Good luck!

Wow Sahrcar! That's some great post! I really loved it! :applause::bowdown:

I've already detailed 9 cars in about a year time frame, you can check some of them on my signature link. And the car I'm talking about is new... 3 months old at max and my cousin is pretty careful with his cars although he does takes it to car washes anyway.

I guess your estimates are really good... it fits my process very well...
One of the things I might be mistaken is that I take exactly the same amount of time polishing that I take to compound.
I think I usually use too much pressure too ( I was using a Griot's before... it's hard to get the pad to that 1 or 2 rotations per second even on speed 5... so I pushed it even harder)

I've already applied opti-coat 2 times, it's not complicated... for a experienced guy it must take just a little more time than waxing the car by hand, you just need way better lighting and care than with a wax... although one of the cars was opti-coated on a pretty dark garage but I was lucky to get it right at once.

My claying usually takes around 2-3 hours.... I guess this is another downside from my technique...

Thank you so much for breaking your method to us.... this topic is really becoming very useful, I have no doubts here in AG forums we have a lot of novices trying to become a pro and sharing this informations and comparing a pro to a novice, can give a better idea for a lot of guys like me of what they might be doing wrong...

:pc7424:
 
Oh... I forgot to tell you the color... it's white
 
It's hard to say how long it could take you without fully knowing much details about the current condition of the paint. Is it heavily swirled, badly oxidized... what color too? If its been sitting outside neglected for a good bit of time you may need to hand glaze it too. This will re-nourish the paint before doing any extensive compounding otherwise the paint may just suck up any oils in the compound or polish and be a major pita to fully work with to achieve full correction and to wipe off. How many other vehicles have you detailed?

I detail professionally and did about 30 cars as a one man show last week. Time wise for me as a pro I'd estimate about 10-12 hours overall (break down below). For you as a novice and not having a routine and knowing your dance steps around the vehicle I'd say 20- 25 hours. If you are new to compounds & polishes and need to still experiment with products and pad combinations then it could be 25-28 hrs or so.

A few tips:

1) After the initial wash to save time you dont really have to worry about drying. The claying will remove any contaminants from the water and the compound/polish will remove any water spots. Just be sure to blow out any water from the crevices.

2) Dress the trim after you wash & before compounding; anything that gets on the trim will be easier to wipe off.

3) Don't wash the windows or chrome until after you are done with the polishing; otherwise you may have to keep re-cleaning to remove polish splatter.

4) If you're just opening the doors to aid in reaching high areas it may be best to wait until near the end to detail interior so as to avoid getting it dirty again from your feet shuffling around (shoe covers used in medical industry or at paint stores are nice to have to prevent ruining a nicely detailed interior)

5) After polishing don't forget to pop open the hood and trunk to remove the polish dust from the hood & trunk rails



Time broken down:
Full scale traditional wash with windows in & out, vacuum interior, tires cleaned and dressed- about 1.5 hrs
(Rinseless wash- 45 min- 1 hr)

Clay- 45-60 minutes

Taping: If your going that intense I would highly recommend taping off the trim and other pieces you dont want stained from polish & wax. This takes me about 30-45 min.

Hand Glaze- 1 hr- 1.5 hr

Compounding: 3-4 hrs
If the paint is easy to work with & not too damaged I can do the sides, top, and rear in about 1 hr & the hood & front in about 30 min. If its heavily damaged then there's no easy way to really say how long it could take to fully correct until a test spot is done. By doing just a small spot at first this will help you dial in the correct pad, and compound choice before going over the entire vehicle only to realize later on that you could have finished quicker via a different method. For a true level finish prior to opticoating Id probably say about 3-4 hrs+ would suffice considering how easy the paint on these vehicles is to work with.

Light Polish step- 45 min

2nd Wash- 30- 45 min

IPA- 15- 20 min

Interior detailed with steam cleaner & carpets shampoo- 1.5 hr

Reg Wax ( Applied & wiped): Hand 45 min Machine 30 min
Never used opticoat so dont know how long it takes to apply Maybe 1 hr 1.5 hr? I do know its a bit more involved than regular wax.


Good luck!

Great post!

This is the way to break down each phase of the process including wipe-downs and inspections...Information like this helps everyone see the detail in detailing and how much time it can take to do the job right....:props:
 
...
A few tips:

1) After the initial wash to save time you dont really have to worry about drying. The claying will remove any contaminants from the water and the compound/polish will remove any water spots. Just be sure to blow out any water from the crevices.

2) Dress the trim after you wash & before compounding; anything that gets on the trim will be easier to wipe off.

3) Don't wash the windows or chrome until after you are done with the polishing; otherwise you may have to keep re-cleaning to remove polish splatter.

4) If you're just opening the doors to aid in reaching high areas it may be best to wait until near the end to detail interior so as to avoid getting it dirty again from your feet shuffling around (shoe covers used in medical industry or at paint stores are nice to have to prevent ruining a nicely detailed interior)

5) After polishing don't forget to pop open the hood and trunk to remove the polish dust from the hood & trunk rails

Time broken down:
Full scale traditional wash with windows in & out, vacuum interior, tires cleaned and dressed- about 1.5 hrs
(Rinseless wash- 45 min- 1 hr)

Clay- 45-60 minutes

Taping: If your going that intense I would highly recommend taping off the trim and other pieces you dont want stained from polish & wax. This takes me about 30-45 min.

Hand Glaze- 1 hr- 1.5 hr

Compounding: 3-4 hrs
If the paint is easy to work with & not too damaged I can do the sides, top, and rear in about 1 hr & the hood & front in about 30 min. If its heavily damaged then there's no easy way to really say how long it could take to fully correct until a test spot is done. By doing just a small spot at first this will help you dial in the correct pad, and compound choice before going over the entire vehicle only to realize later on that you could have finished quicker via a different method. For a true level finish prior to opticoating Id probably say about 3-4 hrs+ would suffice considering how easy the paint on these vehicles is to work with.

Light Polish step- 45 min

2nd Wash- 30- 45 min

IPA- 15- 20 min

Interior detailed with steam cleaner & carpets shampoo- 1.5 hr

Reg Wax ( Applied & wiped): Hand 45 min Machine 30 min
Never used opticoat so dont know how long it takes to apply Maybe 1 hr 1.5 hr? I do know its a bit more involved than regular wax.
...

Very helpful! Thank you! :bowdown:
 
Compounding always takes longer than a polish. Compounding is done to eliminate as much defects as possible via the transfer of heat & friction so a slower pace around the vehicle is definitely more beneficial to achieve maximum correction. Polishing (in a 3 step process) basically just cleans up the buffer trails from compounding. I can spend 4+ hours compounding on a trunk hood alone and then do a lighter polish in less than 5 minutes to level the paint out and make it lsp ready.
 
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