How much Holograming?

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bgray

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K, I gave new products a whirl last night with my rotary on my black car. I did only the Door and front fender to see results. I used Menz Powergloss w/ lcc orange pad(not a fan of this product), IP on a white pad, Nano on a Grey pad, then finished with 85rd on a blue pad. Topped with Souvern. I wanted to see results in direct sunlight.

Today i checked, and there is a SLIGHT bit of halograming...should the finish be 100% free of holograms? IT is very minor, but is present...

What should i expect?

I beleive its the powergloss doing it, it seems to just haze the finish, and not remove defects fully...tried applying many different ways...

incite please!!!
Thanks
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Yes, it should be 100% free of holograms.
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Agreed..:whs:

If I may share what I would have done with the products you mentioned

Menz PG / Wool pad

Menz IP Green pad (non AG pad - I am speaking of the LC pad that is between the white and orange)

nano on White Pad

85rd on blue
 
yah....im almsot positve it was the PG and pad combo...the LCC Foam wool pad keeps puking out wool, and the orange pad is so hard it skips....

Im gonna go grab a wool today. and give it another go...I still gotta get a hand of breaking down the polish correctly...
 
Good idea on the pad. I use a 3M wool pad and do not have the misery you are having, plus when you have the wool pad there is no need for the orange pad, that is also probably causing some of your problems.
 
Do you have a lot of experience with a rotary? You may be better off using a DA for a final swirl removal step.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
Good idea on the pad. I use a 3M wool pad and do not have the misery you are having, plus when you have the wool pad there is no need for the orange pad, that is also probably causing some of your problems.
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Once again :whs:.. Wool is sooo much easier to work with... I haven't used an orange pad since I stepped up to full wool pads.. The most aggresive foam pad I now use is the green pad (again not the AG green foam).
 
:quote=MotorCity Honda;200638]Nahh, I really think it's his 1st and second step that is causing the problem and not the last step....[/quote]

Agreed.
 
I have about 5 years of RA experience....some experience in there with ym rotary, but am now using it full time...

Jsut got a 3m Wool Compound pad, and found some m105 im gonna give a try also...

MY second step is Menz IP With a White LCC...you think thats causing problems???
 
bgray said:
I have about 5 years of RA experience....some experience in there with ym rotary, but am now using it full time...

Jsut got a 3m Wool Compound pad, and found some m105 im gonna give a try also...

MY second step is Menz IP With a White LCC...you think thats causing problems???
Click to expand...

The others may be right on the 1st and 2nd step being the problem. I just wanted to get an idea of your experience because it takes time to master the rotary and not everyone can obtain 100% swirl free results.

I agree 100% on using the wool over the orange foam. :cheers:
 
my feeling is the first step is really your problem, then I would go with a green pad and sip, then your final polish on a blue pad. You have to understand you might have to do a couple of the first step and a ouple of the second step also the say with the final step.
 
I would say it defiently was the issue.....

Had Aweosme results with M105, followed by IP, Nano, then 85rd...

Still unsure if Im using M105 correctly or not, but i'll figure it out

Here a hood on a sierra and my girls car
DSC_0010_004.jpg

DSC_0015_009.jpg
 
bgray said:
I would say it defiently was the issue.....

Had Aweosme results with M105, followed by IP, Nano, then 85rd...

Still unsure if Im using M105 correctly or not, but i'll figure it out

Here a hood on a sierra and my girls car
Click to expand...


How are you using M105? Usually with M105 you can almost go right to your LSP since it finishes off so nice...though for piece of mind I always follow it up with a light polish. I have seen other detailers go right from M105 to LSP.(not recommended IMO).

Rasky
 
In the sense that im not sure of working times, pad choice etc. have a 3m wool and a lcc foamed woo...., what kind of working time on a 2x2 area? how much product do you use? that kinda stuff
 
RaskyR1 said:
though for piece of mind I always follow it up with a light polish.
Click to expand...

Good to hear you are not going from M105 to lsp..no way it can achieve that, it is a super agressive compound and I think people often forget that..

I see where people say "on light colored cars I can go from M105 to lsp".. That to me doesn't make sense.. If you can visibly see the after effects it leaves on dark colored paintwork one should know the same is present on light paintwork.. Just because you have to search for it, it is still there and therefore refracting the light instead of reflecting the light and hampering the full potential of the paintwork
 
M105 should be followed up with SIP, then a finishing polish no matter what color the vehicle is.
 
I'm not arguing the fact that M105 should be followed up with a lesser polish, but have you actually used it with a foam polishing pad, and then looked at it in the sun, after an IPA wipe down? I did it on a black hood and it was 100% swirl free. :righton:

Meguiar's Solo 1 liquid polish goes from aggresive (removing wet sanding) to final finish by simply changing pads. While Meguiar's says M105 is nothing like Solo, it almost seems to at least be similar to it.

My whole point was that M105 is amazing in that it finishes off pretty much swirl free, unlike most compounds. :cheers:

Here is a car that was done by a well know member on MOL using only M105 and a rotary. Again, I don't suggest doing this, and neither does Meguiars, but it just shows you how good M105 is.

My first full rotary car.... - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online


Rasky
 
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