How much Iron-X do you need for each detailing project?

I use the gel on my wheels. Works great and I think I use less product. The wheels are polished alloy and are "honeycomb" style. Real pain to get into all the indentations but a small brush works OK.
 
spinz said:
Do you find that the paste version is more cost-effective than the liquid version?
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Compare the diluted version to the regular.

spinz said:
How do you find the gel version comparing with the liquid version?
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The gel clings better than the spray, getting better exposure/reaction. Helped me alot out on my tailgate.
 
:nomore:
sweatthedetails said:
Nope, never even considered doing the windscreen. I always clay so my main use of Iron X is to attack the brown spots on white and silver vehicles. Makes it much easier to remove after.


Jacksonville Auto Detailing - Home
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I may be slow, but I do poor work.
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Not sure who mentions using Iron-X on the windscreen?

All panels on a car can accumulate contamination

I have found that things that fall down, tend to stick to horizontal surfaces, like the hood, roof and trunk more than vertical surfaces like the doors

I have found that the rear end of many vehicles will also get a build-up of ferrous contamination
 
94LT1 said:
What brands make a gel version
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CarPro, makers of Iron-x. They call it a paste.

CarPro Iron X Paste, iron remover, iron removal

allenk4 said:
I have found that things that fall down, tend to stick to horizontal surfaces, like the hood, roof and trunk more than vertical surfaces like the doors

I have found that the rear end of many vehicles will also get a build-up of ferrous contamination
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I've noticed this as well. The brake dust likes to dig it's way into the CC on top of industrial fallout. So while upper panels may have less contamination, they still acquire it. If I'm going to bother chemically decontaminating a vehicle, I'm going to do the whole thing, as the whole vehicle IS contaminated.
 
Of course it should be pointed out that the paste is nowhere near concentrated enough that it would be comparable with IX original, once diluted as described.
 
PiPUK said:
Of course it should be pointed out that the paste is nowhere near concentrated enough that it would be comparable with IX original, once diluted as described.
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Worked fine for me.
 
I know that rail dust and industrial fall out will hit those horizontal surfaces. But 90% of the metal imbedded in car paint comes from the vehicles own brakes. Those super heated slivers float up, hit the clear and melt in where they begin to rust and break down the paint. Most of this will be behind the wheels and on the rear of the car.


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I may be slow, but I do poor work.
 
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