How much Pressure to apply

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SVTContour

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I purchased a PC about a year ago and have used it a handfull of times with Mothers PowerPolish. I would just let the weight of the machine be about the extent of the amount of pressure I would apply. Through researching various sources on the internet I have come across conflicting opinions. I have read to only apply enough pressure of the weight of the machine, and on Meguiar's website I have read to apply 15-20 pounds of pressure. Can anyone clear up this confusion for me?...Thanks
 
It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you're just spreading a wax or sealant, the weight of the machine will be sufficient. If you are attempting to effect defect correction, you are going to need to put some muscle (weight) behind it. I don't know about 15-20 lbs, you just want to put a load on the machine, but not one that bogs it down too much. It's kind of a zen thing :D you just need to experiment until you get the feel for it. It will come to you pretty easily.
 
I second that thought

I would agree with the previous post. defect removal does require some pressure. to be honest I go by how the PC sounds. again do not bog it down. on a wax, glaze or sealant, very little or no pressure . hope this helps.
 
flatstick said:
I would agree with the previous post. defect removal does require some pressure. to be honest I go by how the PC sounds. again do not bog it down. on a wax, glaze or sealant, very little or no pressure . hope this helps.
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I agree, the machine almost lets you know if too much pressure is applied. The motor bogs and starts to slow. You really need to allow the pad and the abrasive nature of the polish to also do its part. And unfortunately sometimes a PC might need to step back for a rotary polisher.
 
I would be interested in reading your comments on this approach, as I am learning the PC myself--I started getting results when I placed enough pressure on the head (otherwise keeping the machine level), such that the rotation slowed to one rotation evey one to two seconds. It seems that more of the work is done by the vibration than by the rotation.

Use a marker to make a line on your backing plate so you watch the rotation, otherwise, the vibration fools the eye. EDIT: Perhaps I should mention that when removing defects, I have it set at "5".

Armspeed was another big factor, and to quantify this, I have been working an area about 12X12, and make
ing a pass right to left (or up and down) in about 5-6 seconds.

The above is what worked for defect removal (scratches and swirls)--but I dont have a lot of patience, so I am also learning the Rotary, then working the same area with the PC to final, before the pure polish and the wax.


Just my humble two cents. I'd be interested on comments back on this, as I said, because I am also in the learning phase.
 
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Armspeed was another big factor, and to quantify this, I have been working an area about 12X12, and make
ing a pass right to left (or up and down) in about 5-6 seconds.

The above is what worked for defect removal (scratches and swirls)--but I dont have a lot of patience, so I am also learning the Rotary, then working the same area with the PC to final, before the pure polish and the wax.


Just my humble two cents. I'd be interested on comments back on this, as I said, because I am also in the learning phase.[/QUOTE]


I would say your approach of some pressure ( not too much) higher speed on the dial, working a product completely and a very slow arm speed is what I would tell somebody. also make sure you overlap your passes by 50%.when you are doing your small section and moving on to the next section make sure to blend ( work into) the previous area. I guess you can say it is time consuming compared to a rotary, moved up to one myself. I still find the PC to be a great tool and will use both on most details. hope this info will help out some people.
 
FloridaNative said:
Here is a link to some Porter Cable demo videos that Killrwheels had in another post. I find it very helpful to me. I hope it is helpful to you too. :)

http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video.html
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Anything like that around for the Rotary?
I found the following interesting--use of the wool pad, use of the Meguiar's maroon pad, which Meguiars only recommends for use with a bonnet on the PC. His armspeed seems faster than I what I have seen in other video and live demos. Obviously he got results.
So tell me--is that the armspeed you guys use to remove swirls/scratches, of do you slow it way down? I thought I had this dialed in because I was getting results, but now I am confused.
 
Thank you . Thank you.

One guy says have pad at 15 degree angle (I think that was a wool pad), the other, with a foam pad, says, maintain it flat. Opinions?
 
INMY01TA said:
I was reading this article and two pages prior it said not to use a random orbital waxer/polisher. That's what the Porter cable is isn't it? Discuss....
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Porter Cable makes Random Orbital and Rotary.
 
BlackCoupe said:
Porter Cable makes Random Orbital and Rotary.
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Duh.
gr_banghead.gif
Thanx. :)
 
BlackCoupe said:
Porter Cable makes Random Orbital and Rotary.
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Having said that, the Porter Cable Random Orbital is also referred to as "Dual Action" or "DA". To add to the confusion, Porter Cable has E-Mailed me the following:

"RE: Porter Cable 7424

This is not a Dual Action Polisher; it is a Random Orbit Polisher."

"Dual Action Polishers are typically air powered and does oscillate and rotate. The Random Orbit Polisher does oscillate and rotate but is subjected to harmonics generated by electricity flowing thru the motor which in turn can cause the pad to rotate in either direction and sometime momentarily stop movement altogether. Thus the term "random orbit". This technology was first developed for sanders to be used in cabinet shops for their aggressiveness, lesser expense to operate and their inability to leak oil on the wood (as air sanders do), and later discovered it worked well as a polisher as you well know."
 
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