How much pressure?

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CU2MIKE

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Noob here, I recently upgraded from an UDM to a flex. I'm wondering if i apply the same amount of pressure with my rotary as i would with the DA? thanks everyone!
 
CU2MIKE said:
Noob here, I recently upgraded from an UDM to a flex. I'm wondering if i apply the same amount of pressure with my rotary as i would with the DA? thanks everyone!
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Depends on the paint you are working on. Type of compound/polish and type of pad. Alway's do a test spot first. Good luck.:buffing:
 
Rsurfer said:
Depends on the paint you are working on. Type of compound/polish and type of pad. Alway's do a test spot first. Good luck.:buffing:
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I see. So on hard clear coat like BMW, Mercedes, and the vettes i would use more pressure than I would Acura, is that what you are getting at?

I usually start off with IP + LC CCS white pad after inspecting the condition of the paint (how bad are the scratches and swirls).
 
Like I said: Alway's do a test spot first. Experience will dictate what pad and polish. Start with the least aggressive first.
 
Will do!
heh, i just ordered megs 105 and 205. nothing wrong with the Menzerna line, just wanted to try out different products. Will do test spot with 205 + grey pads first though! thanks for the suggestion, i really appreciate it!
 
Absolutely not the same amount of pressure you would use with a DA. It is best to start with just the enough weight to keep the foam pad flat (usually the weight of the machine is sufficient), then adjust the pressure applied as needed if you're not getting the amount of correction you want. Given you've already figured out the other factors to consider such as speed, pad cut, paint defect, chemical (compound/polish), etc. A test spot as suggested earlier by RSurfer would help.
 
I find that with the weight of the machine, i can't keep the pad down real good. what i do is i tilt the pads slightly, is this ok too?
 
You can keep the pad flat if you use your left hand (or right hand, depending which is dominant) to control the head of the polisher. I tilt the pads a bit when i'm running along an edge, but most of the time i keep it flat.

If you have your posture right and your hands at the correct position and still you are having problems controlling the machine. I have a few tips for you:
1. Start with a wool pad - this is the easiest pad to use (it barely reacts and just glides along the paint). When you're confident with it, move on to a finishing pad, the soft less coarse pads, this is the easiest foam pad to control.
2. Start slow. Get the hang of the machine's behavior first before kicking up the speed. Something like taking a swim in cold water, you'd rather dip your feet first and let your body adjust to the temperature before taking the plunge.
3. Someone might not agree with me on this, but until you've got the amount of product right, more is better than less. Lack of lubrication will lead to the foam pad sticking and will hop, and you will instill dry marks and holograms, can even burn paint. More product is a waste, and depends on the product will take some time to break down, but will prevent the rest.

Good luck.
 
thanks for the tips, I appreciate it!
I just noticed I can keep pads flat most of the time, with the exception of the pads going over a raised surface. such as the hood in this picture:


notice the middle has a slight bump, and towards the edge of the hood has it too. I figured I should buff the hood in 6 different sections, what do you think?
And thanks for the great tips!
 
What pads are you using, and size? I'd just do it in four, but no harm in doing it at 6. Nice clean mazda you got there. As for the raised edges, don't directly polish over them, most people here tape those up for safety. I just avoid them.
 
I'm using LC 6.5 inch CCS pads (also have LC 6.5 flat pads)
and oh thats just a picture i found online, I'll post a picture of the "beater" later when i get a chance to snap pictures lol.
 
As far as pressure. I use almost none. My 9227c has some weight and I let that work for me.

What I do is Lay pad flat, #2 setting or 1 click under, before pulling the trigger. I turn my right wrist ever so slightly (like cracking a throttle), and use my left on the hoop to guide it and I go left to right work down the panel.

Given most times from what I have seen, pad and chemical choice will determine how much gets corrected. IF you do not get it on the first past/test spot, try again. BUT not you know either you need to go up on the cut of the chemical, or cut of the pad, or if ALL else fails either turn up the speed or at the very last start to put pressure on the rotary.
 
CU2MIKE said:
I'm using LC 6.5 inch CCS pads (also have LC 6.5 flat pads)
and oh thats just a picture i found online, I'll post a picture of the "beater" later when i get a chance to snap pictures lol.
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I have the flex 3401 as well and I feel CCS pads glide much smoother over the paint than flat pads(I have both), do you feel the same way?
 
well, for my GG6 ROP i use flat pads, i find flat pads easier with a DA.
But for my flex rotary, CCS pads definitely are easier to work with for me.
I've heard good things about kompressor pads with the rotary, so i am going to try that out next and see how i like it.

Do you guys recommend using surbuf pads with a rotary instead of using the purple foamed wool?

as of now i only use my surbuf pads with my DA, and have gotten great results with M105 using the KBM method.
 
p.s. I do have both purple foamed wool and surbuf, just wanted to know so i have more options.
 
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