How much would you charge?

BobbyG said:
Once the car is completely washed, prepped, and ready for correction here's what I'd use.


  • Flex 3401 polisher
  • Hybrid White Polishing Pads
  • Optimum Finishing Polish
  • Speed 4-5
  • Collinite 845 wax

Everything counts so be sure you address the door frames, doors, windows and trim.

For the tires and wheels I'd use Mothers Foaming Wheels and Tire Cleaner then treat them with Mothers Back to Black. Collinite 845 is a superb product to use on wheels so use it here.

Exterior Only

Time: 6-8 hours
Price: $250
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I would go with this. If you use the damf system you are going to need to do two steps on that Lexus. The d300 with a cutting pad is going to leave it pretty hazy. If it's in his budget I would opt for 2 steps of polishing. If not just get in there with a medium polish, Menzerna pf2500 would be my choice, on a white foam pad and don't promise an absolutely flawless defect free finish.
 
I do not get why he wants to go to a car wash first. Personally if it were me, I would either insist that you wash it by hand prior to claying, whether he takes it to a car wash or not.
 
I have plenty of D151 and some yellow CCS pads for a one step.

I just thought the MF system would work better.

What about D151 with a MF cutting pad (or finishing pad)?

I only bring this up because I already have this product. I would have to order the stuff you guy's listed. I was going to do this Saturday.
 
When are you supposed to do this detail for him/her?
How long do you have the car for?
My guess is you won't have it long enough to perform a 2 step correctly (remember, I'm just guessing), and, rather, I'm thinking your better off w/ a 1 step followed w/ a sealant. I believe a 1 step plus a sealant looks significantly better than most 2 steps w/out a sealant.
If you need a good sealant, I can send you some.
 
I would have a serious conversation with the owner of the car before you decide. How will he maintain it after the detail? If he's just going to take it to the car wash then unless you can educate him on proper wash technique, the paint will end up swirled and scratched again.
 
It's his lady friends car and I will have it all day Saturday in our warehouse (where I work). They won't pick it up until Sunday morning. He's going to lock it in the warehouse and I'm going to come in and work on it and leave it for them to pick up.

He knows how to take care of it but being her car, I don't know how she will handle it. I waxed his Mercedes a few weeks ago. He's not going to be a tough "customer". We've worked together since 1998 and we have a good friendship. He's not like most bosses. He knows I'm trying to learn and work my way into a side business so I'm sure he will be very tolerant unless I screw up and take the clear coat all off! lol

He has a side business in photography so he's already given me pointers about getting a business license and such.

He's going to bring the Lexus to work tomorrow and I'm going to do a test spot.

I may hold off a week of I need to order some product. We've already talked and he's ok with that.
 
Are you using a pc?
I understand the point of a "test spot," but never understood why anyone who says to do a test spot does not recognize a "test spot" automatically happens anyways. Who says after starting a paint correction,"well that pad and polish didn't work out so well on this spot, but I think I'll finish the car this way."
 
Quiksilver5882 said:
I would have a serious conversation with the owner of the car before you decide. How will he maintain it after the detail? If he's just going to take it to the car wash then unless you can educate him on proper wash technique, the paint will end up swirled and scratched again.
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I was just about to say something similar.

I've done correction to my Blue Scion, and my g/fs red highlander. These are both made by toyota, and I thought the paint was pretty soft. Orange CCS pads with Meg's polish took out all of the swirls for me, but left RIDS. Since I dont have a paint guage, I wasnt too worried about that. Im not sure how the lexus paint compares to scion/toyota - maybe its as soft.

I would also think you probably want to wash the car by hand before starting the process - those car washes never clean as good as you will :)

Lastly, if the owner is taking the car to a automated wash... they're probably going to do it again. Seems like it may be something where your boss wants the car to look nice more than the owner does.
 
I vote let someone esle wash it, then just do a rinseless wash to save time.
Time efficiency will be the most important key, I feel. No matter what pad or compound you throw at it, there will be rids and swirls here and there. I would just plan to go aggressive, and if you have time for a second go around, go for it.
Me, I'd rather use the time for a second scrubbing of the paint by giving it to having time to accomplish other tasks, i.e. door jambs, outside weather stripping attention, polishing outside glass, polishing headlights/tail lights, extra time cleaning barrels of the wheels, dust clean-up, and last but not least, a coat of sealant or wax.
I feel, second and third polishing steps are having diminishing returns as better, more advanced compounds are hitting the market. FG400, for example, would be an excellent choice to do a one-step on a 2010.
 
Grifffx4 said:
I have plenty of D151 and some yellow CCS pads for a one step.

I just thought the MF system would work better. IT Might, the test spot will tell the tale.

What about D151 with a MF cutting pad (or finishing pad)? I would start with the finishing pad first.......

I only bring this up because I already have this product. I would have to order the stuff you guy's listed. I was going to do this Saturday.
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your test spot is going to tell you what you need........make sure you have foam pads with you because I suspect that's what you will end up using.

not saying the MF pads won't get the job done.....in fact they will, but being soft black paint it might not.......meaning the results YOU are looking for.

Good Luck.........let us know how things go!
 
D151 via MF will leave hazing and micro marring on dark colored vehicles with soft paint. It will actually leave hazing on any color with soft paint... it just won't be as noticeable on white or silver.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
 
expdetailing said:
Are you using a pc?
I understand the point of a "test spot," but never understood why anyone who says to do a test spot does not recognize a "test spot" automatically happens anyways. Who says after starting a paint correction,"well that pad and polish didn't work out so well on this spot, but I think I'll finish the car this way."
Click to expand...

Numerous posts and threads on these forums disprove this statement.
 
Two words, rinseless wash!

A decent bug sponge will save you quite a bit of headache as well.

The one thing that I haven't seen anyone mention yet, and it surprises me, is that Toyota still uses single stage paint on their red, white, and BLACK cars.

If that Lexus is single stage... and you so much as think about using a microfiber pad on it.... IT WILL TURN INTO A nightmare!

As good of a product as 151 is, you use that with the wrong pad, on single stage black paint, and it will also be a nightmare. :eek:

I would start with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and white pad on one test spot, and an orange pad on another test spot. Then maybe 205 with both pads.

If you have any Menzerna 2000 or 2500 they would be good with the orange pad.

With this being your first real paint correction, you need to tape off everything and do as many test spots as you can possibly find products and pad combinations to use on those tests spots! Where it me.... and I training someone to try and get a handle on a paint system that they've never seen, or worked with before, I would have that hood taped off into 6 if not 8 different test spots!

Remember, use the LEAST aggressive method to get the job done. If you use more than you need and it end up micromarring/hazing the paint...... you'll end up putting 15~20 or more hours into it just to get it right. You can always do more, but it's hard to take back doing too much.

I've done the large Lexus' in black, (both sedans and SUV's) and neither were single stage THANK GOD, but they were soft! Menzerna 1500 worked on them as a 1.5 step process (although I still like 2000 better).

Just start as normal, do 4~5 section passes on speed 4 (GG6) then pull the pad off the surface and do a light wipe with a soft microfiber towel.

Then hit the pad with a single spritz of distilled water (very lightly worked it in) and add 3 VERY tiny drops of product (less than half what the normal 3 drops would be). Next turn the speed up to 5~5.5 then go back with 5~6 more section passes to totally work the product down to where it is almost buffing totally clean.

Remove that with ANOTHER towel, (not the first one) taking care not to marr the surface.

If you want to check your progress at that point you need yet another clean microfiber towel and bottle of Eraser (that you apply liberally) and wipe down.

In any event after the polishing stage I would move straight to a sealant of some sort whether that be M21 2.0 or Power Lock or Wolfgang it really doesn't matter but you really need to move to a sealant at that point.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online
 
Oh boy I hope it's not single stage paint! I've never touched a car with single stage. :0

How will I be able to tell by looking at the car? Must I start a test spot to see?


Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately my product inventory is not so vast yet. I will need to order a lot. Looks like I will have to put this off a week.
 
Taping off the car is optional. Personally, with limited time on a detail, I don't do it. The biggest reason I see to tape when using a da is to control dusting, which can be taken car of faster, imo, with water when you're done.
 
I have a Scion tC that has Toyota black 202 paint (single stage) and it is the softest paint I have ever encountered. Here is the level of correction I achieved using HD polish and a white buff and shine polishing pad.

 
10secdream said:
I have a Scion tC that has Toyota black 202 paint (single stage) and it is the softest paint I have ever encountered. Here is the level of correction I achieved using HD polish and a white buff and shine polishing pad.

Click to expand...

Single stage?

You sure it's SS and not a tinted clear? Toyota phased out SS a long time ago.
 
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