How OC 2.0 Holds up to severe water spotting

[TLMitchell]

If you have polished an area and power clean washed Opticoat will still bead if it's there.

Brings up a question I had when viewing your thread with pics showing some OC high spots.... if you need to do a spot polish or compound and you remove the OC is it feasible to do a spot reapplication or do you advocate polishing off the OC on an entire panel to reapply?

Thanks... TL

 

[Dubbin1]

Brings up a question I had when viewing your thread with pics showing some OC high spots.... if you need to do a spot polish or compound and you remove the OC is it feasible to do a spot reapplication or do you advocate polishing off the OC on an entire panel to reapply?

Thanks... TL

Chris says you will need to polish it off and re apply it to the whole panel.

 

[Dubbin1]

I just had the exact same results as you did Bill. Normally I wash the car right away after it get rained on but I have been super busy this week and didn't have a chance... Once it cools off out I will hit it with poli seal to make.

 

[Chris Thomas]

I see Chris ... Well of I did get the same type of spots using two coats of PL a little polishing on my car would buff them off too ... So as this is a sacrificial barrier what again is the real benefit in putting this down in your opinion if it still requires some maintenance?
It just seems like for 50-70$ an application there should be worries eliminated right ?

Like I said, OC is not for everyone and if your major concern is water spots, then you should not park near sprinklers and buy a CR spotless filter system and save your money for an LSP more to your liking.

Benefits of OC are easier bug-tar-sap removal, reduced marring, time saved not having to apply LSPs every few months, reduced claying intervals, hardness improvement over factory clears, unsurpassed water sheding, etc.

I was only suggesting it as a sacrificial barrier in the case of damage caused by extreme conditions. In most cases with regular car it is MUCH more than that. I'm not sure why that is difficult to conceptualize.

$59.99 provides enough product for 2-3 full sized cars, so for less that the price of an oil change you get years of protection...I'm not seeing that argument either.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Brings up a question I had when viewing your thread with pics showing some OC high spots.... if you need to do a spot polish or compound and you remove the OC is it feasible to do a spot reapplication or do you advocate polishing off the OC on an entire panel to reapply?

Thanks... TL

From our testing, high spots can be removed with Poliseal or Finish Polish and will leave the base coating intact, requiring NO reapplication. On the other hand, if you are chasing RIDS with an aggressive polish or compound and believe you have stuck through, we recommend a pass or two over the whole panel to rough up the surface so that OC will bond again and reapply to the whole section. Unlike paint, the resin cannot be blended so its very tricky to just spot repair. We are only talking about 5-10 minutes to prep the panel and reapply though, so I have never seen this as a big deal. If you use our Polishes and Compounds, the surface is ready for Opticoat after only a damp MF pass...no need to wash, IPA, or prepsol.

 

[TLMitchell]

From our testing, high spots can be removed with Poliseal or Finish Polish and will leave the base coating intact, requiring NO reapplication. On the other hand, if you are chasing RIDS with an aggressive polish or compound and believe you have stuck through, we recommend a pass or two over the whole panel to rough up the surface so that OC will bond again and reapply to the whole section. Unlike paint, the resin cannot be blended so its very tricky to just spot repair. We are only talking about 5-10 minutes to prep the panel and reapply though, so I have never seen this as a big deal. If you use our Polishes and Compounds, the surface is ready for Opticoat after only a damp MF pass...no need to wash, IPA, or prepsol.

Thanks, Chris. An entire panel makes sense, however, one of your pics featured a rear piller sweeping down into the rear fender... not a well defined panel like a door or hood. That's where my thought originated.

I received the OC a couple of days ago and plan on doing my DD. My original intent was to hopefully make the super-soft H-D CC on my bike a bit more swirl resistent. panels, tanks, fenders etc are small areas and easy to do. The truck is a bit more challenging.

In a bit of a try out to see what's what I OC'd the painted portions of my inner fenderwells. Possibly a waste of product but if it makes tar and gunk removal easier under there, well worth it. I found the product application is about the same as Opti Seal. Simple! On white it appears a good idea to have the pad in one hand and a Brinkmann or other bright light in the other hand. Pretty tough to see it going on white.

Thanks for all your replies on the various Forums. You've got the patience of Job! :xyxthumbs:

TL

 

[panthercz]

From our testing, high spots can be removed with Poliseal or Finish Polish and will leave the base coating intact, requiring NO reapplication. On the other hand, if you are chasing RIDS with an aggressive polish or compound and believe you have stuck through, we recommend a pass or two over the whole panel to rough up the surface so that OC will bond again and reapply to the whole section. Unlike paint, the resin cannot be blended so its very tricky to just spot repair. We are only talking about 5-10 minutes to prep the panel and reapply though, so I have never seen this as a big deal. If you use our Polishes and Compounds, the surface is ready for Opticoat after only a damp MF pass...no need to wash, IPA, or prepsol.

Great info! My question though is what do you recommend to "rough up" the surface of Opti-Coat? Would Optimum Polish II or Hyperpolish on a LC flat black pad work or do I need to go more aggressive or less aggressive?


I'd also like to add that I really think many people are missing the concept of what Opti-Coat is/isn't. It is not bullet proof armor and nor did I ever see anyone state that it was. So I'm not understanding what people are talking about when they say things like, "it isn't all that the hype made it out to be". The "hype" is that it protects the paint like any other LSP but much, much, much longer. What wax or sealant fully protects from bird bombs or the hardest of water etching? Why is it being thought that Opti-Coat or CQuartz are completely immune to the harshest of abuse? They are coatings meant to save time and protect longer than standard waxes/sealants, not be some kind of impervious force fields.

 

[CEE DOG]

The benefit is not having to polish off clear coat to get those water spots out.

This is something that Dr. G made a similar point of and I'm glad you bring it up.

Hi Bill.

Also, I'm so glad you started this thread. Because....I once again have gained more knowledge, in regards to the Opti-Coatings, due to people like you sharing their experiences with said Coatings.

My Thanks!!, once again, Sir, goes to you. (And probably should thank Chris for his input and candidness, also )

Bob

I completely agree Bob. This thread has very good and up to date information and tips in it.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Great info! My question though is what do you recommend to "rough up" the surface of Opti-Coat? Would Optimum Polish II or Hyperpolish on a LC flat black pad work or do I need to go more aggressive or less aggressive?

I have found that Polish II and Hyper Polish work well for this task, white or grey LC pads or comparable are fine.

When sweeping areas need repair, I would put down a tape line to prep...then before reapplication, move it about a quarter inch toward the unprepped area. Apply OC to the panel and the 1/4 inch overlap. After about an hour use a finish polish only on the tape line and you should be fine. I don't recommend this for half panels...just the conditions TL mentioned above.